Does anyone still sell toe in measuring sticks? I've been looking without success. Lots of laser alignment tools, but no sticks. Thanks, Rob
Circle track guys sell 2 metal plates with 2 tape measures,put a plate on each wheel ,the plates have slots in them run the tapes in front and back and read the toe.
I've got an old one in my garage. Made in the 50's or '60s I think in Chicago. It has 2 cast iron stands on the ends of two pieces of square tube, which can slide into each other. One stand has a long pivoted needle pointing at a plate with a couple of degree-lines on it. The back of the needle just behind the pivotpoint rests against the tire or wheel. Will try to make some pics of it these days.
looks like Eastwood buys the chinese gauge and jacks up the price to me; http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30167
It takes a helper but for several years when I worked in one shop with bare essentials for front end equipment I would jack up each tire and scribe a mark in the center of the tread of each tire while I rotated the tire with the other hand. I just used a pencil with my hand braced on a block of wood to keep it solid. The bad part was I had to have a helper to hold the other end of the tape. Measure at the back side of the tires from line to line on each tire and then measure at the front at the same height. Ideally the front measurement should be about an eighth of an inch less than the back or what ever you have decided the desired toe in or toe out is. The toe in bar works good and I have used them but to use them right you have to be able to move the car forward or back with the bar in place between the tires.
Longacre racing products is the roundy round supplier we used for them. But you can also just take 2 beer cans at each tire front and back on the outside of the tire and a piece of of 1x2 wood longer then the tire. Then just measure from side to side front and back of the tire and the difference is your toe in/out.-Weeks
i made my own about 25 years ago out of scraps , and it's aligned a lot of cars. if i get out to the garage i will snap a few pictures
You can make your own for about $5 in scrap. Two different sizes of square tubing, one of which will slide inside the other, a couple lock bolts, and two pointers welded on the ends and you're in business. Didn't Kiwi Kev post a how to on making one a while back? Edit: Here's Kiwi Kev's home-made version. His is even a little smarter in that you can adjust each side independently. It's about halfway down the page... Cool stuff. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169271&highlight=tools
If you would like to buy a U.S. made alignment gauge, Manco Products makes one that the Chinese copied. J.C. Whitney sells it for about $50. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000172868/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000172868
This is how I set toe in with a stright axle,,, I still use the old traditional way(Cheap),,with a scrap of 2" x 4" and a 8 penny nail and a rattle can of white paint. I jack the car up high enough to spin the tire and spray paint in the center of the thread will turning the tire,,then have a friend hold the block of wood with the nail sticking out and ease it under the tire just enough to scrape a center line to measure buy. You do need help and a tape measure,,,check front and then the rear of the tire,,,figure desired toe in and your done. Don't worrry about the paint,,it wears of quick.HRP
Attached is a photo of a simpler toe stick that made while working for an alignment shop that used no computers. They used chalk sourced from a company that sold railroad supplies to give something to lay the scribe line into. I just use sidewalk chalk now. The yellow ended device has a slash tip figuring it would be more precise since the pencil tip could blunt. I made three of the second style 2007 to sell while I was getting my own shop rolling. The important changes over what that shop was using include laying the cross bar right on the feet so it would work under really low cars. Cutting the feet short enough to slide under really low cars. The pointer is taller than theirs to get closer to axle height. And, the slider tubes on the pointers themselves are long enough to help keep them from tipping when you tighten the set screw. Also, putting the set screws on the top means they can only tilt the pointers one direction for more stable readings. Jeff PS, yes, this is posted in two threads. It relates to both topics, so here it is.
I set cinder blocks in front and rear of front tires. then place a straight edge, spanning the bricks, across the wheel, touching the tire on both sides. do this on both sides, then measure front and rear and adjust toe. works for me.
I have Longacre plates. I use them to get cars in the ballpark so they can go off to the alignment shop. My alignment guy is amazed that two pieces of aluminum and two tape measures can do that.