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Technical AV8 Steering Relocation Questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BenLeBlanc, Jan 3, 2016.

  1. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    Hey there, asked in my build thread, but thought I would ask here. Was unable to search and find my answer.

    I am using a model A steering column with Teflon links- that damn F1 box costs too much and I just want to get this thing going.

    I do not want to cut a hole in the frame wall and make a box because I am not that experienced and don't really want to go that route.

    So, off of the stock hole center, what is the general rule for making the new mounting location? Looking for inches rearward and possibly up or down. Thanks.
     
  2. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 399

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    Hi Ben, if you're using the stock hole in the frame you have no movement rearward or in any direction, the hole is where it is. All you can do is rotate the column and box around the center of the hole to raise or lower the wheel a bit. Or are you wanting to mount the box on top or below the frame rail to allow you to place the box where you want it? Have I misunderstood your question?
     
  3. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 3,059

    cretin
    Member

    I think he wants to mount the box on top of the frame, and he's using the stock hole as a reference to measure from.
     
  4. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    Ah, I see what you mean.

    A common thing people do is that they actually cut a huge rectangle out on the driver's side of the frame rail, and they box that rectangle out some amount, like a half inch or something. This moves the steering column left; more towards the driver side door. This method just goes around the cylinder head.

    So, what I am looking for is to actually fill the current hole, and redrill a new hole further back on the frame. Then, there will only be the need for a steering column spacer.
     
  5. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,499

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On mine, I filled in the existing hole and redrilled one the same size but lower. The best measure I can give is that the top of the hole is 1 3/8 inches from the top of the frame rail. If I had to do it again, I would have also moved it rearward about 1/2 inch. I am using an F1 box.

    Hope this helps

    Pete
     

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  6. Donald A. Smith
    Joined: Feb 19, 2011
    Posts: 272

    Donald A. Smith
    Member
    from Brook In.

    Pete Do not take what I am going write down, but in your picture you show a steering arm in your Hot-Rod. The nylon lock nut is not doing it job. Please be aware of this, I am not bring a Wise *** only looking out for you! Don down the road and wanting Spring to get here. Happy New Year
     
    AVater likes this.
  7. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,499

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don,
    No offense taken--you are right. I picked up a ss nut and was thinking about using it but will have to go back to the original for just the reason you mention.

    Good eyes!

    Pete
     
  8. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    Bump for morning crew.
    I do not have a body to play around with; that is why I am asking this question.
     
  9. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    Last call, before I wing it!
     
  10. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,652

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Not having a body to Moch everything up with will certainly put you at a disadvantage ... Why no body?

    I have seen the box relocated so it straddles the two ports on the motor and just clears a stock exhaust manifold but you would really need th location of column drop to set inclination
     
  11. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    The body is all dis***embled, and so is the cowl--- they are all in 2D. This is just due to how bad of condition everything was on initial purchase. Check my build thread if you want to see what I mean.

    I am thinking that the cyl head is going to interfere with the column more than the exhaust header. Furthermore, I can drill the flange bolts once I do have to body set up, but I at least need to plug what I have now, and drill the main hole before paint, ya dig?
     
  12. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 399

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    I don't have a hole at all in the rails I'm using so I plan to drill and mount the F1 box I have once I'm done getting the body sorted enough to mock it up on the rails. It'll mean taking it all apart again but I rather do that than stick the hole in the wrong spot. might be worth waiting until you sort out the cowl maybe?
     
  13. BenLeBlanc
    Joined: Sep 24, 2014
    Posts: 537

    BenLeBlanc
    Member

    I guess; but that means I can at least plug the hole I got and paint everything up, no? I am just facing a lot of flash rust and want to get this show on the road.

    Also, I wanted to box the frame around the steering box, which is hard to do if you can't locate it. Is there any way around this?
     
  14. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

    No reason to box the frame , the factory didn't. I fill the existing hole and re drill about. 1-1/2" back and as far down as I can . That's with the f1 box though. One of my build threads shows this I think.
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.

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