I'm getting ready to put some 3" blocks under my 54 and came across a little problem. The peg hole in the block is 1/2" Dia. There is a spring retainer/vibration pad on top of the spring pack with a 7/8" Dia protrusion. (Part number 5736) Should this just be removed along with the old rubber pad below it when I install the block? And for the front, I bought the spring perch lowering blocks from Butches and I have Aerostar springs on order. In butches instructions it says that the kit can be used with dropped spindles but not lowering springs due to clearance issues. I thought others have done it this way and I just want to confirm before I go cutting all my rivets out. Thanks.
I made my own 2" blocks for the rear, that way I got the retaining pin and the hole the right size. Used aerostars in the front. This setup has given me a very slight rake to the front, maybe 1/2" Ian
I know on my Jamco blocks, the "peg" on the block was the same size as the peg on the stock spring, so it would have been too small to fit the peg hole in the spring perch without the rubber rubber isolator and the metal isolator plate. But if the Butch's blocks have a larger peg, it makes me thing they intended for the isolator and plate to be removed. Might have to check with them to be sure. I do think you'll have to keep the lower isolator and plate on the bottom though, or come up with some other way to compensate for the smaller peg in the larger hole (that's what she said) on the lower spring plate.
I ended up putting the block directly ontop of the springs and put the pad isolator on top of the block, under the axle mount. Think that should work. Now just have to wait for my correct size u bolts to show up.
X2, I always like to read and keep up with the lowering subject. Not to hijack the thread but could you guys advice as to what supplier could deliver the whole combo: eg. kyb gas adjust or monroe shocks, moog or aerostar coils and blocks? I'm still strugglin to get her reliable and now that gas and cooling are good (minus an accelerator pump-caused sudden go! problem), brake parts are on theyr way here. But I keep dreamin of the first thing to do after she runs good and that will be lowering the grav center and improving handling (she gives me the white knucles above ...say... 40-45mph). So.. who could deliver the whole pack so I can save some $ on the outrageous shipment fees and custom taxes that I cant avoid? Thanks
I don't think you can get it all from 1 place. I went to autozone for the springs and shocks and butches cool stuff for the lowering kit.
Maybe you could try this website here: http://pt.ebid.net/for-sale/ The coil Springs are front 1989 Ford Aerostar MOOG CC850 the front KYB shocks are part number KG4503
I don't know if I ever posted an after picture with the 3" blocks in there. Here it is. Aerostar coils up front.
I was pretty unhappy with 3" blocks on my car. The ubolts hung below the tire rim and I felt they were a hazard. I pulled them and installed a pair of super glides from Posies, which gave me a 3" drop. I used aerostar springs in front gave me a nice low stance. Somewhat more expensive, but a much better way to drop your **** closer to the ground.
K5, do you have any pictures showing your car's stance? Im leaning towards doing Aerostars in the front, and I'm curious about the super glides.
It's back on jacks right now doing a booster upgrade and working on the front clip. But go to my post (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/took-the-vicky-for-a-first-drive-today.959693/) and you can see the car before I put it up. Maybe you can see what you want there.
K5 - looks like the nose goes up just a little bit? Might it go down a bit after you hang the metal back on? I have a 5.0 motor too (mine from a 96 Explorer). Sounds like you were also happy with EFI Guy on Cl***ic Broncos, so I'll give him a shout. Voodo - the car looks sick, man. Very nice,
Voodoo, did you end up using the spring perch lowering blocks to achieve that stance in the photo above?
Measure your spring width first there are some options: http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/front-rear-lowering-kits-1/ If you order from them tell them you are a HAMB & Ford Group member.
When I put my lowering blocks in I mounted them on top of the springs and put the pad isolator on top of the block, under the axle mount just like you did. When I removed them they had cut thru the pad isolators, because the lowering blocks had two pockets cast into the top. Ruined both of the isolator pads. You can get replacements but they are pricy. Should have maybe added a piece of sheet metal on top of lowering blocks to keep this from happening.
Good to know Jim. And thanks Jeff. Mine are 2" wide when I measured this morning so I'll be ordering some blocks here shortly.
I used block kit from auto zone, taped peg hole , screwed in a piece of (3/4"???)threaded pipe ($2.00 home depot)and cut to length ---under $40 buck... done!
Alright, well I just made the call to my local O'reillys to have their universal 3" lowering block kit delivered to the shop so I can test that out this weekend. I ***ume you used the threaded pipe to make the locating hole a bit smaller?
I've already done my car with 3", the pipe you used to make the locator hole smaller smaller - this at the top right? Did you use any kind of a vibration pad?
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