Technical Sock oil filters... rebuildable?

I just got a 51 Dodge 230 engine with the can for a sock-type oil filter. Is it possible to rebuild the filter that I pulled out? These filters can be pricey and hard to find. I heard something about raw cotton and old denim jean legs. If I could just get a pack of cheap tube socks, though, that's the way to go.

Or could I put a canister filter in there instead? Those are easier to find and a little cheaper. I think I read somewhere that you shouldn't put a canister filter in a can designed for a sock filter.

Thanks!

 

There are 2 kinds of filters. Bypass and full flow. Bypass does a thorough job of filtering and cleans out all the dirt and sludge but does only part of the oil at a time. In other words, it uses a very fine filter. Full flow filters all the oil but only strains out the big chunks. That is why you don't want to use a full flow filter in your bypass system.

You should be able to buy the correct filter at your local auto parts store. They may have to order it but they are still made.

The best alternative is the toilet paper filter like a Frantz. It is an excellent depth filter and you could substitute a Frantz filter for your stock can.

 

I was referring to the bypass canisters... basically perforated tin can... Wix type. I guess the sock was an alternative to that. I have a couple of those cans, but I'd have to widen the mounting holes and run new lines to the block.

I couldn't just stick a roll of tp in this one, could I?

I'm trying to think of a cost-effective way to change filters. I'd like a Franz, but it may not be in the budget right now. I haven't started the engine yet and I'd like to soon so I can get it put in the car!

 

What is the number on the old one?

 

Did a quick search for 1951 Dodge bypass filter. Came up with WIX #51071 $33.95 from WIX or $ 7.25 from Summit Racing. Since they are the same filter I would buy the Summit one. Or even better, drop by your local NAPA store and ask for a WIX 51071 filter or equivalent. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wix-51071/applications/ Don't buy a FRAM they are crap.

If you prefer the sock type that would be a WIX #51011. They seem to be a bit more expensive at $14. But, you need to remember the filter will last at least 5000 miles.http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/oil_filter/dodge/truck.html

I don't know why the filters won't interchange. If the cartridge fits and makes a good seal around the center tube it should work the same. The dirty oil is supposed to surround the filter, go through it and down the tube in the middle.

No you can't use a roll of TP in your old filter lol.

 

Did you even try to buy a new filter or do a web search?

 

I bought a drop-in canister filter before I cracked mine open. It will fit fine, but I was wondering about the lid having a half-circle screen attached (I'm assuming to hold the sock filter steady). My other oil filter cans have springs on the lid; but also have a line fitting on the lid itself. The sock filter can has the line fitting on the upper part of the can; just under the lid. It would be much easier to use that one.

The lid of the sock filter can says to use filter JC. If I had more internet access, I could research to my hearts desire... but my access is pretty limited. If the drop-in canister functions the same as the sock type without a whip, that's my answer.

And about 5k miles with a bypass? I read a vary of opinions... but they may not have all been for this setup. I figured that I would switch the filter sooner at first, because the engine's been sitting for however long.

I'll snap some photos and post tomorrow. Thanks!

 

Factory recommendation was to change every 5000 miles. You could check with an electronic temp gauge when the engine is hot, and see how hot the oil filter gets. When it gets plugged up and stops passing oil it won't get as hot.This could tell you when it needs changing.

If the engine is out of the car now would be a good time to drop the pan and clean out any dirt and sludge.

Have you tried your local parts stores for the filter?

 

And no one from Atlanta and the club with sock in it has chimed in. My local O Rilies has a filter in stock my price is way less than 15 dollars. A friend has a 50 to 52 or so dodge truck and purchased several a while back he uses my shop to service his fleet.

 

rock auto has both filters he mentioned in wix for $4.52 and the sock being 10.48 ,

 

If stock look is not important you can go with a Wix 24755 base and a 51050 spin-on. With a bypass system a small amount of oil pumped, is run through the filter and returned to the pan. If the filter get hot oil is moving through the system Many large trucks and equipment have both systems and don't service the bypass filter until it quits getting hot.

 

These are the can that came with the engine. The last pic has a canister filter that came from the can I was going to use in the event the sock wouldn't work. I'd need the taller one, I'm sure.

 

The first two pics are of the "alternate" can I was going to use if the sock wouldn't work. The orange Fram was one that came in a box with a Studebaker I once owned, but I've never had it hooked up.

 

Oh, and I already cleaned up the pan and pump. The engine was pretty clean. Even behind the valve covers was very little sludge. But now I'm having issues with two broken manifold studs and three of the four bolts from the intake to the exhaust were snapped, too. I have one bolt drilled and tapped, but haven't worked much on the other two yet. Broken bolts are definitely not my strongest subject!

 

on the broken bolts heat them up with a propane torch till hot then apply some bees wax to them as it will get in the threads to lubricate them , also find some left hand cobalt bits when you drill them out as it will loosen the grip and torques them in the losenig direction ( sears, mc master, fastenal has them ) buy the kit and take your time and let the bit cut do not force it otherwise you break them