Figured I would start a build thread on my latest project. 1950 Ford Four door shoebox. Literally had to cut a trail and pull this one out of the woods of south Alabama. Sad part is that it was a running, daily driver when it was parked there 30 years ago. All original (except motor...Mercury V8 Flathead)some parts have been robbed over the years but most are there. Here are a few pics once I got it home... My plan is to build a more traditional old school hot rod. Slight chop, lowered but not bagged, upgraded suspension and steering. So here we go...
Completely tore down and found the usual rust and rot. To start I will go ahead and begin the chop. This will be a lot of pics but I wanted to have a bit of detail for the guy that may be doing the same thing. Though I have done 2 door chops in the past, this is my first 4 door. I searched everywhere for details and tips on chopping a 4 door but there is not a lot out there. Maybe this will help some one. I didn't do the usual sectioning of the roof. To me it makes the car look extra long sort of like a limo or something. Instead I pushed the rear gl*** forward about 4 inches. I chopped 3.5" front and then chopped the rear 3.75" in rear. Basically put it where it flowed smooth in the rear. This is some what of a different approach to the chop but in the end I will get more of the hot rod stance vs. the tail dragger... . I have lots more chop pics if anyone is interested. Thanks
Chop finished and taking a break. Guess I will go ahead and French the tail lights while I'm resting... Took some 18 ga steel and hand rolled 2 tail light buckets... cut out the old... Little welding, hammering and holes drilled. Ready to install... roughed in and ready to get back to work...
shoe box hambers Went ahead and shaved the fuel door... Cut and shaped a fuel door patch... moving on...
Now for the dreaded floor. The entire floor is shot except the area where the back seat sits. Cutting out the floor and going to build new pans. Ordered new outer rockers from EMS. Nice rockers!!! Best I have seen and stamped perfect! I installed the rockers and started to move on to the floor. . Highly recommend EMS ask for Alexander he's cool as they come... Attached Files: a" data-thumb-height="100"> IMG_1120.JPG File size: 162.2 KB Views: 7 IMG_1121.JPG File size: 177.4 KB Views: 7 IMG_1125.JPG File size: 212 KB Views: 7
After I finished the rockers I built new inner rocker panels. They turned out nice. So now I test fitted the doors. WTF!? sagging, bowed out and totally out of whack!! Contacted a fellow shoeboxer. The man Mr. Finnrodder! He gave me some much needed advise and I got back on track! Sat the car on the ground and squared everything back up with the doors on. Now building the new floor while it sits on level ground. Killer on my back but its a fair trade to have a level and square floor! Moving on...
Here is the past few days building new pans and installing the new floor... teaching my son how to use hammer and dolly. Making the rear ****** tunnel... One more to go. Attached Files: a" data-thumb-height="100"> IMG_1155.JPG File size: 136.2 KB Views: 9
Well that's where I'm at right now. I will try to keep this updated. Thanks for checking it out. Any comments, questions or advise is more than welcome.
The problem with doors sagging and out of whack is common if you cut out floors and rockers without bracing the body first. It is possible to jack up the car and use multiple jacks to true it up. I use scissor jacks and pickup truck jacks from the junk yard. As many as 8 or 10 to straighten a bad one. But it is better to check first, true and brace the body, then cut out and replace one piece at a time.
Couple of young guys replaced the rusted out sub rails, rockers, and floor in a '52 Vicky. Doors sagged 3" and 2", (right and left, respectively) They then cut the new subrails, added, tacked, cut, added, tacked... Finally got the doors to work, but gaposis was terminal. One of them went to work on the frame (!) to allow for the uneven subrails, 1.5" in some places! They got it together, and coaxed me to slide underneath...OMIGOD! The ch***is rails were 'stepped' in some places, (vertical cuts, stepped up, rewelded...then 'gloved' on both sides of square rails) The frame looked like a freshman lesson in arc welding. One trip to Billetproof in Antioch, they sold it there. Whew! Jamrodder is illustrating what can be done with some know how and straight forward thinking. Chopping a fordor is NO day at the beach.
Mike, Thanks so much for the complement and support! Means a lot to see my work accepted a****st the masters!
Looking good. This didn't come from the Ft Rucker area, did it? Did some training there last year and spotted what looked to be a black shoebox in the woods on a flight. Planned on tracking it down and checking it out, but ran out of time before heading back home. Good luck on the build.
Thanks buddy! Im going to try and keep it up to date until the end. Well... we all know they never end, how bout until its painted and at its first drive in...LOL
Well today I plan to weld in the final floor pan (right rear) then cut out the entire firewall and start fabricating the new one. Going back with Merc flathead (not 100% percent sure year or size) backed up with a c4 auto ? Unless you guys have a better recommendation for the ******. This is my first cruiser and my first flathead. I have been building street rods and custom pick ups (lots of HP) up to this point. I would appreciate any and all suggestions on Transmission recommendations. I will put the engine pics and cast numbers up later today. Maybe yall could tell me exactly what I have. Thanks and I look forward to all replies, constructive criticism, sarcastic remarks and kind words...
The adapter for a C4 to flathead will also work on a AOD which gives you a lower first gear to give the flatty a little more off line torque plus the advantage of overdrive .67. The best donor is from 1988-93 these have the newer lubrication upgrades and improved valve body and are non-computer. If you use a '51 shoebox center hump you will have the extra clearance for the AOD or C4 late.
Are you saying that I can use the original transmission hump size with either transmission? No need to make it larger?
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