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Technical How to save a Rumpelstiltskinian water pump from self-destructing?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wsdad, Jan 16, 2016.

  1. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    It seems like every time I have reawakened an old engine that's been dormant for many years, I've had to replace the water pump after a very short time.

    I suspect the seals get rotted, so they quickly wear away, letting water into the pump's bearings or bushings. Then, it's goodbye water pump!

    Is there something that can be done to save the seals?

    Or

    Is there a someplace to buy just the seal?

    My engine is an off-topic 1971 Cadillac 472 that has been sleeping since 1989. But I've had the same thing happen on a 1962 Buick 215, Pontiac 195 and a Ford Straight 6.

    Does anyone have any advice as to how to keep from having to buy a new water pump for my latest Rumpelstiltskinian engine?
     
  2. If you have spun the water pump.......it is toast.
    I have used wd-40 with some success.
    $80 for a reman
     
  3. paleot
    Joined: Aug 29, 2011
    Posts: 232

    paleot
    Member
    from louisiana

    You should be able to still buy water pump lube, was around for years might just help.
     
  4. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    I did think to take it off before turning the engine over. But that turned out to be a dumb mistake because oil poured out everywhere when it started.

    $80 buys a nice steak dinner for two.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
  5. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,572

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    We used to use polypropylene glycol to lube hot tub pumps to they don't run dry on start up. Maybe try dumping some into the pump before turning it over.
     
  6. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1452964760.223991.jpg

    This stuff?
     
  7. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    I think you had a run of bad luck or bad water pumps. I have revived lots of old cars, only one had a bad water pump and it was obviously shot when they parked the car.

    Fill with fresh water and a can of water pump lube is about all you can do. If it is a real old car it may have a grease ****** on it, grease it with water pump grease or waterproof marine grease. Not too much, one pump is plenty.
     
  8. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,738

    bobss396
    Member

    I just replaced the one on my 355. The old one sat for 30 years and I have this phobia about getting stuck on the road. It was actually a new Cardone pump and really inexpensive.
     
  9. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,578

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    For some time Some Euro and Japanese makers forbid using coolant with silicates, which supposedly are abrasive and eat even fancy seals.

    I wonder if other makers used different seals, or didn't care.

    It seems like most brands these days are phosphate and silicate free, so /// might /// have some benefit in old iron.
     
  10. jailbar joe
    Joined: Nov 21, 2014
    Posts: 415

    jailbar joe
    Member

    when I have a motor that is going to be dormant for a period of time...I just make a plug out of some exhaust tube and a bit of old radiator hose to blank off the pump and then make a weak mix of soluble oil and fill the motor...
    stops the pump drying out and also stops the rust forming inside the block:cool: a couple of rinses with fresh water and good to go again....the soluble oil I use is the stuff they use on lathes for lubrication..dunno it's right name.
     
  11. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    I may have been unlucky. That's one reason I wanted to ask - to see if others were having the same problem.

    I have some water proof trailer bearing grease. I wonder if that will work. I may try to get some under the seal somehow.


    I usually just call my wife to bring the truck and we flat-tow stuff home. Doesn't happen that often and I'm usually just around town.

    I'll check before refilling. Thanks.

    Good tip. Mine had green radiator fluid in it that looked new. Hopefully that preserved the seal a little.
     
  12. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 4,660

    Truckedup
    Member

    The water pump seal on many older engines is a spring loaded fiber disc pressing on a machined surface of the pump casting. If the casting machined surface is corroded it will leak. There's also a rubber seal around the spring that will deteriorate over time.
     
  13. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I'd say the biggest problem is corrosion on the pump shaft. It gets rusty from sitting and eats the bushings, bearings, and seals the minute it starts to spin again. As far as avoiding it, every old engine that gets revived should have the pump rebuilt or replaced.
     
  14. jailbar joe
    Joined: Nov 21, 2014
    Posts: 415

    jailbar joe
    Member

    say the biggest problem is corrosion on the pump shaft. It gets rusty from sitting and eats the bushings, bearings, and seals the minute it starts to spin again. As far as avoiding it, every old engine that gets revived should have the pump rebuilt or replaced

    I'm not so sure about that...I have had a couple of experiences where I had bought brand new water pumps at a good price to keep on hand as spares and after a couple years on the shelf, when call into use I found they leaked like ******y.....I know a couple years on a shelf is not the norm but shows that the seals dry out on new stuff too.
    just hope the water pumps I have had for 11 years for when I build my flattie are still okay:eek:
     

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