Technical 39 trans bit dry

looks to me like your ring gear is coming off of the flywheel which is not uncommon ...............
press it back on and tack weld it to flywheel

 

Roseville Carl! You're right!

 

Tapped back hard against edge of flywheel it stuck out a fair bit on one edge- how were these fastened normally?

 

Interference fit Pete, heated and slipped on flywheel, as mentioned hit it with some spot welds.

 

Shouldn't the flywheel have to be rebalanced after adding the spot welds ?

 

I wouldn't worry about rebalancing, can't see half dozen quick hits with a mig causing an issue.

 

try to space the welds evenly and make them the same length.

 

Is that the gap we're seeing at the bottom of the ring gear between it and the flywheel?
That could have gotten ugly, couldn't it? Good call, Carl!

This is why we LOVE pictures on the HAMB.

 

Well a favour came in and some tig welds later the ring gear shouldn't budge. Saying this- how much should one expect the crank to move back and fourth? It's not a new Motor and I know nothing on the history. Any advice? Bolting pan back on and going over it all tonight

 

I guess it will be limited to the crank knocking on the caps

 

Ideally, probably something like .003" to .010". And there's probably a lot of these engines running around fat and happy with more than that. Not sure how they control crank end-play in these engines. Do these have insert bearings on the mains?

 

You might have a bit more end-play than optimal, since you initially heard the s****ing noise when depressing the clutch (which shoves the crank and flywheel forward). But I bet it's not worth tearing an otherwise good-running engine down for.

 

Thanks Alchemy and ClayMart. I will start it today and see how she runs!