Projects 27Roadsterguys Roadster Build... (starting from scratch)

I'm looking for a set of undamaged, no broken fins EVANS HEADS for an 8BA motor if anyone has a set. Not that I'm picky or anything... Lollzzz

 

No, are you looking for a date? Haha

 

Quick pic of the Polished Stainless Steel Rear Radius Rod Set-Up I just got in the mail.




The photo doesn't do these any justice, they really shine like chrome. Absolutely beautiful.

All I thinki need for the rear suspension now is the axle radius rod mounts and rear shocks.

 

It looks like a blower is gonna happen on the flathead... I just bought a tri-carb blower intake manifold for a 4-71 blower. I'll post a pic when it arrives. Now I gotta buy the blower, carbs, lower intake manifold, and adapter plate, etc, etc....

 

In my working years in the food industry Stainless Steel is used every where. SS has cracking issues when stressed. I would not use it or SS bolts unless the bolts are from ARP. Just my opinion.

 

I hear ya, I'm in the food industry too. That's why I'm running rod ends with nylon bushings instead of swiveling rod eyes, to absorb some stress and vibration on the radius rods.

 

Ok, I know this project is moving slow, money is TIGHT right now, but anyway... I just got a smoking deal on. Complete 1929 front axle assembly, wheel to wheel, complete everything.

Question is... What year F100 front juice brakes fit the late 1930's to 1947 front spindles. I have a tiny budget, so I'm gonna run the old school drums for a while till I can afford to do a disc setup later.

1953 F100- what year? The newer the better, as these brakes probably won't be that easy to find as a unit.

 

The self-energizing brakes are basically the same from 49-56 on the pickups. The F-1 had a different drum/hub than the F-100, but the brake unit is pretty much the same and should go on the 37-48 spindles with the conversion bearing kit.

 

I have ridden in a 32 5 window with 40 Ford brakes, 3 deuce 327. In a lighter car they are more than adequate to drop you down from way too fast to a stop in a pretty quick hurry. Discs are ugly on an open wheel car of the traditional variety. Well, unless they're Kinmonts.

 

Good point, I didn't know how well they worked, that's why I figured I'd need discs later. Thanks

Will model A spoke wheels be safe to use too? I have a friend with some for sale cheap.

 

No self respecting hot rodder "back in the day" would be caught dead with stock Model A wheels on his car. The first thing he'd do would be an upgrade to 16" wheels, either wires or steel wheels.

Are you building a traditional car, or a neo-traditional?

 

Trying for traditional, but just wanna get it on the road to start with.

 

Late to the game, but basic drums will cost you more than basic discs. And it's money well spent!

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Subscribed just so I can keep looking at that body. Post as many photos of it as you like, it might help me with my scratch built body. Keep going I want to see where this goes. I have a flathead in my 27 but a 32 chassis under it.

David

 

Nice looking project. Are you planning to use an original 1926 frame and if so, what modifications are you planning for it?
John

 

Thanks for sharing your build. Before you lock in your frame design consider how low you will be able to sit above those frame rails.