There were several discussions a while back about this, but no one actually answered this question...I`m getting my exhaust done next week..currently 350/cam into long lakes..A little too loud at 2am. Not sure exhaust can be run over diff. due to clearance (49chev. on frame in rear). 2 options, that I know of are run addl mufflers and terminate under car by diff., or install mufflers before the lakes..(which I prefer). Sooo has anyone installed short gl*** packs before lakes and how does it sound???? Not sure but it seems like if the exhaust terminated under car..it would fill up with fumes in traffic??
I've never done it, but I can tell you from the exhaust experience I do have that it will still be louder then hell. A short gl***pack, especially one as short as the one you would need to fit in such a confined area, would do very little to actually quiet the exhaust. All the muffler would do there is refine the sound to get rid of the harshness of that straight-pipe sound. I think you'll be better off routing the exhaust all the way out the back. A good exhaust shop should be able to route it over the rear. Lots of your year Chevs with V-8s and full lengths duals. Running functional lakes with that cammed 350 you got is gonna choke the hell out of that motoranyways. The opening at the cap is only 1.875".
The current exhaust I run on my plymouth terminate just rear of the front seats and have no problems with fumes in the cabin, and my floor boards are the rare snow belt see through model.I remember a post about a year ago where a guy bought and installed baffles in his lake pipes from a company named Car Craft or maybe Car Quest , not sure about the name. I think Summit Racing had them.
Don't terminate the exhaust under the car. Bring it all the way out to the side or the back to prevent exhaust fumes from entering the interior. In Texas you can't p*** a state inspection with exhaust that terminates under the car.
I agree with the statement about it still being loud as hell. The short gl*** pack + all that pipe for the sound to echo down + the motor being choked all to hell by that little *** lake pipe = loud. All that gl*** pack will do is take some of the crack out of the sound...but not much. If you want quite but still nasty, run it out the back. They should be able to get your pipe over the rear end (God that sounds gay). If not, just have them run it under the rear with bolt up flanges so that you can unbolt the tail pipes should you ever need to drop the rear. Remember the closer to the engine the mufflers are, the louder the exhaust will be, the closer to the tail pipe the quiter the exuast will be. Hope this helps.
I've had some time to think about this exact problem (laid up with pneumonia) and have arrived a a potential solution: 1. split the laker about 12" before the exit. 2. Insert a set of motorcyle baffles (about 24" worth ought to do it) inside the lakers. 3. Insert coupling at the point of the cut - one that matches the ID of the laker. 3. Run about 4 sheetmetal screws into the joint to secure the coupling - and allow removal if you want to. I'm gonna run both the stocker exh and lakers on the Chrysler, but if the lakers are too loud, then this is how I'd approach calming them down. 2" M/C pipe inserts are easy to come by.
Didnt think about a flange...that will be my way out if they cant get it over axle tubes (called axle tubes to prevent any Brokeback Mountain jokes)
Here's an idea: Run your exhaust to the opposite side lake pipes, thus giving you more pipe to insert a longer, e.g. quieter, muffler. Just pretend you were running a single exhaust, except cross both pipes to other side where the one pipe would normally go. Here, I drew a crude diagram on MS Paint. Put longer gl***packs where the red boxes are.
Side exhausts generally sound ****py, especially if they're loud. People on either side of the car hear what sounds like a big 4-banger; the side nearest you completely masks the sound from the other side. I'm talking about dual side exhausts, of course, where each side pipe serves one cylinder bank. If they both exit on the same side it sounds OK.
Why not cut a 2" hole in the back of your lake pipes a little ways forward of the end of the lake pipe, then run your exhaust back underneath the car with whatever mufflers you want, then route your exhaust into the 2" hole in the lake pipe? Am I making sense? That way, you can have whatever mufflers you want on the car because you'll have 3 feet or more of length to work with, your lake pipes will still be functional (exhaust still coming out the end of the lake pipes), and no one will see where the exhaust under the car ties into the lake pipe because it'll be on the back side. No one ever said that the exhaust has to go through the WHOLE lake pipe, just needs to be coming out of the end of it to get the effect. If what I just explained makes no sense at all, I'll dig out a crayon and draw it up for you. I challenge anyone to figure out why this idea wouldn't work.
OK, using wannabewannabe's pic to start with (thanks), here's my idea. The thick black lines represent the exhaust pipes routed under the car with mufflers, then entering the lake pipes further back on the car. You won't see any of it because it'll tie into the lake pipes on the backside where it doesn't show. That's it, mufflers on the car with the exhaust still coming out of the lake pipes. Does this make more sense?
somebody posted something like this that they had on a chevy that they wanted sneaker pipes but not real loud...
I like Squablow's idea alot. In fact I'll take it one tiny step further, why not just punch the exhaust pipe behind the elbow of the lake and byp*** the lake pipe all together and just use it's opening. Don't see why not. Good idea Squablow!
Thank you! Oldskool55's pic would work too but seems like a ****load of work just to make the exhaust run through the whole lake pipe. The flange with removable baffles would work too but if you're using chromed lake pipes like the JC Whitney ones you're going to **** up the chrome when you weld the flanges on. Doing it by my idea, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put an H in the pipes up front to keep the exhaust pressures even. You might also want to put a cap or plug in the front opening of the lake pipe up where you would connect the exhaust if you weren't using mufflers.
yeah it is kinda over done haha.... yours lokks simplest. you could also get mufflers that are mentfor side exit exhaust with the inlet and outlet on the same end like this
Fellas, let's not forget, this car has a perimeter frame. The exhaust would have to turn 180 all the way back to the front of the lake pipe at the fender's wheel radius, or be routed either UNDER or THROUGH the frame rail. Is it just me or does this whole idea seem a bit mentally challenged. Just route the exhaust out the back, and run non-funtional lakes. You still have the lake pipe look, your car sounds good with full length pipes, you don't choke on fumes, you don't have your lakes turning blue from the heat, and you get to properly exhaust your 350 for maximum performance...am i seeing a downside? Or run functional lakes and deal with the noise, but that doesn't make much sense to me
If you look at my avatar, you can see my lakester headers with turbo mufflers and they are NOT loud. They really have a pretty mellow tone to them. I'm not having any of the problems you guys are describing. Also, I'm running a 300+ horse 327! Works for me! If you can't visualize it beforehand, it'll most likely never happen!
You could just run a full length exhaust, albeit going around the problems you mentioned, with cut-outs to the lake pipes if you want to keep them functional. That way, you're usually mellow, but you can really make it rap when you feel like it. I think I just saw some electrically operated cut-outs in Hot Rod this month.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/eggtoss2-jpg.166847/. The same end in/out muffler under the car going to inlet of lake pipe looks like it would work and be fairly quiet. I'd like to find Lake pipes that are 2.5-3" dia though.
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