Hot Rods Problem Flaring Poly Coated Brake Lines

Anyone have any tips for dealing with poly coated brake lines? Fittings don't want to slip over.

 

28 views already, so I guess I'm not the only one.

 

try scrubbing off some of the coating near the flares .

 

Yeah, that much I figured, but I was hoping for an easier way considering tight spaces. But thanks for the reply.

 

I wonder if they use a larger ID hole on the flare nuts than standard ones do , I know some specialized brake lines you have to use there specialized fasteners to make it work . which sucks . but it has kept me from using some $$$ stainless ones on a standard terne covered line in the past as the line was sloppy

the other thing I could think of is to check for burrs on the fitting or the pipe end or see if the pipe ovaled or belled when it was cut this happens with the wheel style cutters on softer tubing and tubes that have coverings they want you to use a rotary cutter like a muffler cutter or a hacksaw to cut the ends

 

Some brands slide over with no prolblem,
Drill fitting ,
letter ,numbers , fraction

 

Better yet, don't use poly coated lines. If corrosion is the reason, use Cunifer lines instead.
Easy to bend, flare etc.
http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/copper-nickel-brake-line

 

Stimpy, I'll check on that ID thing. I'll punch the old piece of line out of the bad fitting and measure it's ID compared to the new one. I had already ground burrs off. It's not that big a deal to make it work but if I redid the whole truck it'd be a pain. When I do re plumb the truck I may just use the nickle copper line. It's supposed to be softer, easier to work with and rust free. But I've never known anyone who has used it.

 

Ya slipped that post in on me Blue. Yeah, that's what I was thinking of when I replumb.

 

Is that the green ones? I don't like them.

 

There is a green-ish one Napa carries, but it flared okay for me. No special coating on that one.

 

Hunter green.
Not greenish

The coating makes the tube OD oversize.

 

The problem wasn't flaring but getting the fitting over the thick coating. The stuff doesn't want to sand off easily.

I just replaced the whole line with nickle copper tonight. Much easier to work with and rust proof. It's only a few bucks more.

 

Makes perfect sense to remove the corrosion coating

 

How about using stainless tubing? Will be the last ones you ever have to buy.

Don

 

I think stainless requires different fittings and adapters at the master cylinder and any proportioning valves tees or junction blocks doesn't it? These nickle copper lines can be polished for the clean freaks and for me they just seemed easy to work with. If the flares hold, I'm sold.

 

try using a line called cupro nickel it flares well and is easy to benda company is called fmsi automotive hardware

 

I like using the NAPA already flared ones. Need to do two lines, buy a longer one, chop it in two pieces, only have one end on each to flare.

 

I bought some stainless from Jeg's with nuts..Supposed to be annealed and flarable..Couldn't touch it with my Snap on flaring tool...

 

Yeah I ended up using the copper nickle. It's easy to work with.

 

That's odd. I only use stainless and never had a problem bending it. Do you work with 3/16 ?

Don

Don

 

I am using that line on the 42 Chevy I am building and have had no problems with the nuts fitting in the lines.

 

stainless has to be cut with a saw or roto tool , the manual hand toolhttp://www.mccusainc.com/Tools/images/TC-3size.jpg work hardens the ends and makes it hard to flare

 

Doesn't stainless require a different flare?

 

I hate the green line it doesn't flair or bend well at all. I have used the steel line and just started using the copper/nickel recently and it is great to work with.

 

Stainless cannot be double flared, way too hard an brittle. Usually stainless is flared 37degrees and used with AN fittings