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gasket or no gasket? SBC question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hellfish, Feb 27, 2006.

  1. Jer
    Joined: Sep 4, 2004
    Posts: 33

    Jer
    Member

    It's all a matter of opinion... As previously stated, GM puts the silicone on the ends from the factory now. Every 2.8, 3.1, 3.4, 3.8, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7L etc that I've done has gotten Grey Permatex Right Stuff. At the shop I work in we always throw away the ends, if the kit even comes with them, and that's in the hundreds without a comeback (knock on wood). The only advice is to have an extra set of hands to make sure it's dropped down straight so that you don't smear all of your silicone off the end when you're lining it up. Just my opinion based on what I've done and seen.

    Jeremy

    By the way, I've always set the intake back on immediately after applying silicone so you have more time to torque before it sets up.
     
  2. Here is even more confusion....
    I have always used the set of gaskets on a chevy intake...Till I see what 348 sets sell for...then I tried the RTV -EVEN ON THE HEAD TO INTAKE SURFACES!
    worked fine for a year so far...
    Oh-:D I never run a gasket in between the heads and exhaust manifolds either.......
     
  3. a/fxcomet
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 554

    a/fxcomet
    Member
    from Eugene, OR

  4. Bingo!

    EDIT: Oh, and make sure everything is clean first. I use carb cleaner. Use what you like and make sure your cleaning solvent does not leave a residue.

    BTW, guys with the Ford FE motors (352, 390, 427, and so on) have the exact same debate.


    .
     
  5. dynamic88
    Joined: Jan 4, 2005
    Posts: 157

    dynamic88
    Member
    from Chicago

    I'm starting to feel vindicated, Joe! No gaskets, just RTV. Thanks for all the opinions.
     
  6. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    They will leak - check your plugs for fouling first - the gasoline will jelly the RTV - even RTV supposedly made for "fuel exposure" or is "fuel resistant" - not sure what that means, but it doesn't mean fuel proof!. In your situation, I'd fabricate my own gaskets out of proper gasket material OR depending on how much clearance the gasket takes up, use the Locktite 515 stuff meant for metal-to-metal...

    The tip for exhaust manifolds is they must have perfect mating surfaces - then run heavy coat of silver or copper paint with lots of solids...:D
     

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