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21 stud flathead

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustomfordman, Mar 4, 2006.

  1. kustomfordman
    Joined: Feb 28, 2006
    Posts: 534

    kustomfordman
    Member

    O.K., I have a really nice low mileage 21 stud flathead from a '37 Ford. I just finished installing a Mallory crab-style distributor and am very pleased at how smooth she runs. The engine was very cheep to me, so it is worth having some fun with.

    Does anybody sell finned aluminum heads for a 21 stud? Its a 24 stud world. I feel like I did about 10 years ago when I was playing with Y-blocks...and now look, you can get just about anything for them now.

    I would also like to move the fan off of the generator to a lower location, what is the set up on the later flatheads? Any advice on adding an oil filtering system would be helpful too.

    I would like to hear what others have done to the 21 stud engines aside from throwing them away for something with more horses.

    Thanks,
    Kurt
     
  2. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,959

    the-rodster
    Member

    I don't think that the currently produced (Edelbrock, Offy) come in 21 stud, but I do see them on Ebay from time to time.

    Hope this helps,
    Rich
     
  3. Try H&H flatheads in so. cal. I'm sure I saw 21 stud heads in their mag. Maybe a website? I'll look in my box of paperwork I grab from the shows and see what I can find. I'll e-mail you this weekend. I know I have something because I have a 21 stud also.
     
  4. TV
    Joined: Aug 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,451

    TV
    Member

    I know Don orasco sells 21 stud aftermarket heads, but hang on to the back of your jeans if ya want them.--TV
     
  5. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Alum. 21 stud heads without water pumps (37 38) are very rare. but there out there. No new ones that I know of.
    For full oil filtering you need to have it down to the bare block and drill and tap some holes.
     
  6. cruzr
    Joined: Jan 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,127

    cruzr
    Member Emeritus

    Ron Brown likes this.
  7. 4dFord/SC
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 837

    4dFord/SC
    Member

    When you get your aluminum heads, here (IMHO) is some good stuff to protect them from corrosion and electrolysis: http://www.no-rosion.com/
     
  8. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal


    That head is for the early 21 stud motor. the 37 flathead has the pumps on the block (not the head) and have center water outlets just like 39 to 48 motores.
     
  9. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

  10. John Caulfield
    Joined: Sep 1, 2014
    Posts: 11

    John Caulfield
    Member

    I have a 21 stud also for my '34 Cabriolet and would like to upgrade to the Mallory crab style distributor. How did the installation go, I am assuming it is not a direct bolt in replacement? Did you have to make many adjustments to get the new distributor to fit? Do you remember the model number of the distributor you got?

    Also for your questions regarding finned heads, not many company's make repos but you can occasionally find an Eddie Meyer pair, but they are expensive.
     
  11. 8dearborns
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 74

    8dearborns
    Member

    Hi; Contrary to many opinions, there is nothing wrong with 21 stud engines. Especially 1937 engines
    which have replaceable bearings, etc. You may have seen my black 1932 Phaeton on the cover of Street Rodder
    and at the Grand National Roadster Show and my grey primer 1932 roadster on the cover of Hot Rod Deluxe. They are both 21 stud 1937 Ford flatheads.
    I drove my roadster the 90 miles to Fontana and it ran 16 seconds and 80 MPH! The Mallory ignition
    bolts right on and works fine. Don't be afraid of some advance. What wakes them up is a good cam.
    The old Potvin super 3/8 or the Isky 400 jr. I also install Lincoln valve springs. The Stock 1937 Ford aluminum heads work fine. They are the final evolution of 21 stud heads and have more compression than 32 through 36 heads. You can also mill them slightly to increase compression and make sure they are flat.
    If you run a .400 lift cam, make sure you check for valve to head clearance.
    Use a dual carb manifold. The Slingshot works good and so do the Tattersfield high rise. 2 stromberg 97's
    with stock jetting or slightly leaner work great. For oiling, I buy the later flathead oil pump and plug
    the passage going up into the engine. I drill a hole in the outlet side of the bottom plate and make a plate
    the bolts to it that is drilled for 1/4 pipe. I then put and 1/4 pipe to AN # 8 line and run the line
    through the side of the oil pan with a bulkhead and run the outside line to a remote oil filter. From there I run
    a line into the hole at the back of the block. You now have full flow oil filtration without any machine work to the block. this system has worked great on all my engines for many years. I also shim the oil pump with 4 AN washers to raise the oils pressure to a constant 65 lbs. Make sure you use your 37 oil pan as it has superior crankcase breathing. The only original finned aluminum heads ever made for 1937, water pump in the block engines was Cyclone. All other manufacturers didn't want to spend the money for a ONE YEAR ONLY engine.
    Good luck.
     
  12. Flatheadjohn47
    Joined: Aug 18, 2012
    Posts: 1,372

    Flatheadjohn47
    Member
    from Lewes, DE

    image.jpg Use the Edelbrock slingshot before using the Tattersfield. The Tattersfield is identical to the THICKSTUN; Hot Rod Magazine did a shootout about 18-20 months ago,and the Slingshot outperformed the THICKSTUN by 18 h.p. The Tattersfield,THICKSTUN looks great,but is a poor performer!
     

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