** OFFICIAL ** hot rod clutch brake pedal thread !

Any more info to add? Mech. clutch set-ups preferred.

 

These are a couple pics from a 28 coupe I'm working on. Pedals are from a 39 mercury, x member belongs to a 35-40 ford. Chevy engine, factory aluminum bell and a side shifted transmission.

 

Bumping this back up. Lets see some more pedal set-ups.

 

X2

 

Here are some pics from my build thread. I chopped an inch and a half out of the height of the pedal as well. More specific info on that thread...

 

These are 33/34 pedals in a 32 mount bolted to a 32 K member. Puts the pedals in the same location as stock Model A. Only mod was to heat and tweek so as not to hit frame rail.

 

great info! Book marked

 

I am getting ready to mount a set of '40 Ford pedals in the Model A. Have some what of a plan and will probably have to heat and bend pedals some before I am done. Any body do this setup in a Model A?

 

Been coverting 38 pedals to fit in 32 K member . Using the pedals shaft and the pinch type shaft support. I have been taking pics along the way and plan on a tech piece when its done and working .
Anyhow both sets of 38 style pedals i have have different clutch and brake pedal arms. One has an I beam cross section and the other is oval cross section. Are they all like this? Seems odd to want to use original pedals and then have them mismatched. I'm more curious than fussy and will have no problem using them.

 

40 pedals are X member based. Clutch on outside with the extra shaft. Do you plan on adding an angle support to mount them.?

 

I have a TCI Ch***is, 283 SB, S-10 T-5, a cable clutch, and a ECI three bolt to two bolt M/C adapter. Am in the "how will I do this stage" right now. Would like to make a bolt in set-up, tossing around a couple of ideas right now. Some form of angle support, just how big and bulky, not a lot of room. Just wondered if anyone had done this, mounting the pedals, to see it from another perspective.

 

This is a set of hanging pedals that I did on a modified using Ford van pedals, tubing and bushings. This is a link to the build thread, the pedals start at post#52
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/26-7-t-modified-build-all-ford-by-ford.534292/page-2

 

No room so its under the seat for the dual MS.

 

You may want to remove angle bracket and fab a pedal box thats square to frame or crossmember using the ford shaft and pedals.

 

my 34

 

Funny you say that. I was looking at some pics of after market pedals today and had the same thought. I already have a new shaft to replace the one in the bracket so I will be fabbing my own. Thanks for your input.

 

bump

 

I'm doing the clutch and brake pedals in my car now. I was thinking about using a small vacuum booster like in the picture below. Seems like a pretty slick set up.

 

The old Ansen style firewall mount pedals had an engineering defect pointed out by a friend of mine. They did not have a return stop for the pedals making it possible to pull the push rods out of the master cylinders by accident. Maybe by catching your toe on the back of the pedal pad and thus losing the brakes or clutch at an inopportune time. No personal experience on this one, but he is a reliable source. You guys might want to mock up the pedals and check the possibilities.

 

I've been playing with the 'stock' pedals in my 40, converting to DC brakes and hydraulic clutch for the T5 box.
I had a Ch***is Engineering adapter for the brake Mc,, so used this to base a new adapter for the brake and clutch MC's. The stock 40 clutch pedal 'pushes' forward with the actuating tab on top of the pedal swivel. I needed mine to push backwards with the tab on the bottom. I wasn't happy with welding a dog leg arm on he bottom of the clutch pedal to actuate the clutch MC, so I got another brake pedal which has the cast dog leg arm as part of its design, so all I had to do was bend the pedal arm to miss the X member, by copying the original clutch arm, and slightly extend the mount for the clevis.
For slave mount I found a really nice mount made by Novak https://www.novak-adapt.com/, but with my engine/transmission mid mount, I wasnt able to use their mount, so I made my own based on my mid mount and Novak's design. They were really helpfull by the way, telling me what slave and master I would need to make this work.
With the slave in, I had to bend my brake arm a fair bit to get it to miss the slave mount, and make the throw out arm ever so slightly shorter to line up better with the slave.(the throw out arm isn't finished in the pic, and will be fully welded and reinforced on the end) Hopefully this will all work..
I have one question for you all tho, originally my 40 had a clutch pedal return spring as standard, I can't see anyone using one on their hydraulic pedals, but would it be a good idea, rather than relying on the spring in the MC? (i tried to put the pics up in an order that made sense, not sure its worked tho)

 

Funny, no-one mentioning the most popular fifties hot rod swing pedal set-up.

'53/'54 Ford swing pedals from my stash.(Thanks Chris)


Bill Breece coupe...


Bill Harrison roadster


Ala Kart


Dave Shorter Model A


The Ansens didn't even come out until the tandem chevy PU master did, think that was 1960. The easiest way to know if you are looking at Ansen swing pedals or '53/'54 Ford is to look at the firewall. If you see side by side ford masters, the pedals are '53/'54 ford. Call me weird, I always figured the best way to make a car look like it was built in a given era is to use the parts guys were using in that era.

 

Here's what I did In my 32 roadster. I first took the stock 32 mech. Brake equalizer apart so I could flip the shaft and return spring over. Then u cut off two arms per side. I used a 40 ford master cylinder inside the drivers kmember hole. I'm running a 40 side shift transmission so I had to do a lot of heating and bending the pedals to fit everything down there. Well just the brake pedal I didn't touch the clutch pedal. I had to narrow the pedal box by 1" to make it all work with the side shift trans. This is a car that will be driven a lot and hard so pretty was not what I was going for so don't worry about the grade 8 bolts and rattle can paint. It works *****in and that is all that matters. I did this so that there is no master cylinder hanging down under the car and I didn't have to cut and weld the arm on the bottom of the brake pedal. Welds can break and then you have no brakes. This would be easier if a stock size 32 pedal box was used.

 

Finally finished my pedal set last Dec. Used two '40 Ford brake pedals, had a friend shear and bend some 3/16" plate, I then fabbed the pieces. Tacked everything together, then took that to another friend and he tig welded them together. Have since heated and bent the clutch pedal to the left for more distance between the pedals.

 

I'm currently working on a set of pedals following this tech article from an old American Rodder magazine.

 

Great thread

 

Very Helpful !!! thx

 

My take on deuce pedal box. Works great with the later trans

 

Just a question. I currently use a old ford pedal for a clutch to a 3 speed and a FE.Was just wondering with the clutch fork my pedal pulls the fork backwards. Can I change the pedal or modify my setup so as to push the fork forward. I have moved my engine forward and the fork is touching the steering box. I thought I may trim the fork and push it away from the s/box. Any help is much appreciated,, cheers

 

Need some help from the crowd. Can you help me ID these pedal sets? I think the set on right is 33/34, but not sure on left set...?


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