Wow, thanks for sharing what you did with it. I just read the whole thread for the first time and am impressed with how easy it is to follow and understand being well written with matching photographs.
I too, am impressed with what you have done; especially the work on the heads. One thing puzzles me though. Why would you use a "4 bolt to 3-bolt adapter" to mount your 2GC? I am using the same carburetor on the 255" Merc going into my '51 club coupe. I procured a Canadian aluminum Mercury manifold that the carburetor bolts directly onto. The only problem is that the throttle bores are quite a bit smaller on the manifold than on the car. I purchased a 1 7/16" "Roto-Broach" and bored the entire manifold all the way down. I used the base of a scrap 2GC bolted to the manifold as a guide and it worked perfectly. It seems there is enough "meat" for the bore, and when it was done, I used a carbide bit to blend the bottom of the throttle bores to the passages in the manifold. When I mount the carb on the manifold backwards, every thing seems to line up correctly; even the automatic choke tube on the Merc manifold.. It seems to me that the adapter will raise the carb up enough to cause throttle and choke linkage problems, as well as complicating the automatic choke hook-up. (I am using the automatic choke as the manual choke linkage is the only thing that doesn't line up with my set-up and I've had good luck with them historically.) I am impressed with what you are doing. I don't think I will spend as much time finishing the outside of my engine as you have on the inside of yours!
Beautiful work! I am curious about one thing.Do you routinely use .007" seat to head(block in this case) interference in iron head(block) engines? I have always used .006-.007" in aluminum heads but iron heads with austentic iron or any of the brico alloy seats .002-.003" is pretty normal.I am NOT trying to tell you how to do your job,this is just professional curiosity.
Stienauge I use .007" because it is what my seat inserting machine recommends and alot of builders say between .004" and .006" in cast iron and a minimum of .007" for aluminum. Martin Wells calls for .005" to .006" on everything. I also don't use any of the locking fluids. I have always had good luck doing it this way so never changed. D
Here are a couple of shots of what it looks like in better light. Got it on the cart pretty close to being able to fire it.
Very nice work. That old girl is getting the works! Unless I missed it and you stated it else were. My Question to you is. What was the final Compression ratio and CCs of the modified heads? Looks to me that your gonna have higher compression than 7.6:1.
Drifters From post 12 here are the specs before the fill and mill I never gave the final head cc Bore 3.2175" Stroke 3.75" Swept volume (SV) 499.39 cc head volume (HV) 75cc average valve relief and blended area (R) 10cc dome volume (DV) 11.965cc dome height .255" deck clearance (DC).075" 9.988cc gasket volume (GV)15cc 499.39+75+10+9.988-11.965+15=597.413 /(75+10+9.988+15-11.965)=6.095-1 cr After the head work the head volume was 53cc's but then you add the 10cc's for the relief. So it is like having 65cc heads and no relief work. If I am off even as much as 5cc's some place the final cr is 8:1. It is all because the pistons sit so far down the bore. I am going to to look for different pistons for my next build for sure. So you end up with VC+HV+R+DC-DV+GV=Total Volume CR= Total Volume/[HV+R+DC+GV-DV] 499.39+53+10+9.988-11.965+15=575.413/(53+10+9.988+15-11.965)=76.033 CR = 7.57 D Smith
I know it has been awhile but it is my busy time of the year and it wasn't happy being awakened from it's slumber. It blew the lower radiator hose at the end of my break-in just as I knelt down to try and find my oil leak. So I took an impromptu 190 deg shower. Burned side of my face,back of my head, arm, shoulder, and a large portion of my back luckily (I guess) all just severe second deg no third. For 2 weeks I wasn't supposed to do any thing in the shop. Got a lot done on the old flatty since my last post. Here is my air cleaner set up. I cut the oil-bath air cleaner up and gutted the inside. This is the felt and mesh from the inside of the lid. The horse hair and mesh from the filter part of the lid. I centered up the between the seem and the top of the flat section. Then measured out even spacing and used a green-lee punch to punch holes. I connected the hole and filed the opening true(true enough for an air cleaner). I hand some perforated stainless left over from another project. I rolled it to fit the curve on the air cleaner and then welded them in. I made an adapter out of a piece of exhaust tubing to mount the air cleaner to my 2g and clear everything with out having to beat in the bottom of the air cleaner. All done and powder coated. I had to make a plate for the inside of the filter body for the element to sit on. I used an element for a 70's slat six out of a 1/2 ton dodge. I found a screw in pcv for a foreign car and turn a piece of aluminum to fit the road draft tube hole and cut grooves for two o-rings to seal it. I have had it running and have it tuned fairly well for no load but I think I might have to play with the carb a bit more when when get it in the car and under load. It only pulls 14 inches of vacuum at idle (550rpm) but bump it up close to 1000rpm and it pull 17-18 inches. I will try and figure out how to post a video or it running sound pretty good.
Congratulations on completing a really great engine. This is a well done write up. Nice details. Thank you for sharing. Glenn
Excellent ,excellent. But wishing you a speedy recovery on the nasty burns through no fault of your own. I love the oil filter , I can sure see a market for these for those of us without your skills. Hint hint.
The Jalopy Journal
