ok guys was having problem with starter so I changed the solenoid to a new 12volt from a 6volt that system has been converted to 12 from 6, the old solenoid started to just click and hum sometimes then finally just click. I bench tested starter on car and it spins like a top, checked solenoid and it angaged the arm to starter, but figured I would change it anyway since it was 6 volt and figured that was the problem. Unfortunatley I had no meter at the time, since then replaced the solenoid with 12 vold and it does the same thing, have 12.47 volts from ignition switch, have 12,47 from battery, but only .045 volts from solenoid to starter when it is energized, whats up with that.
Does the solenoid engage?[click] If it does, it's bad. If it doesn't, do you have the wire from the ignition switch connected to the S terminal. There are different types of solenoids. Some have an S and an I on the small terminals. The S is the start terminal and the I is the ignition terminal designed to bypass the ballast resistor to give the coil full voltage for starting. The ground for the pull in coil is connected to the metal mounting bracket. Another type has a + and - on the small terminal. The starter wire from the ignition goes to the positive and the negative terminal gets connected to a ground. They can also be connected with the + to the battery side of the solenoid and the negative to a push button switch that's connected to ground. The third type has one small terminal that is marked S that connects to the start wire from the ignition switch. These were used in newer cars that had electronic ignition and didn't use a ballast resistor. These also ground through the mounting bracket. A fourth type has a single small terminal like the third type but the ground for the pull in coil goes through the large terminal that connects to the starter so the starter has to be connected to a certain large terminal. The large terminals are sometimes marked S and B but not always. These were used where the solenoid was mounted on a plastic fender A fifth type has one small terminal that connects to ground through a momentary contact switch and the positive side is connected to the large battery terminal so the battery has to be connected to the correct terminal. These were used in snowplow systems to control the electric pump. Since you purchased a solenoid for a vehicle that didn't originally have a 12 volt solenoid it's hard to say what they sold you. Standard ignition parts isn't very good at marking and documenting their parts.
Sorry, for some reason I was thinking of a Ford type solenoid. On your Buick, the piston inside the solenoid pushes a pin connected to the plate that connects the battery terminal to the starter terminal. Something is preventing it from making that connection. I don't remember if those had the external type solenoid. Some had slotted mounting holes so the solenoid can be moved toward or away from the drive end. I seem to recall some starters having an adjustable link to set the depth of the drive. You likely need to remove the starter to check it out.
actually you're getting 0V thru the solenoid .045V is just stray voltage. You can probably get that anywhere on a car.
Thanks!!!!!! I Think think that is a ve ry good possability, I pulled the solenoid and compared the side by side, the new solenoid has a longer end hosing where the plunger goes into it, about an 1/2 inch longer, so I am guessing the plunger is being pulled in , just not far enough. Man I sure hope that is the case. I ordered another 12 volt solenoid from smith electric that swaers it is the correct one, they sell a 6 volt and 12 volt version, it's not cheap around 80.00, but if it works! Will post back after I get it and installed.
What bothers me is that the original quit working. The 6 volt solenoids usually work very well on 12 volts. It takes more current [amps] to produce the same power with 6 volts so the wire is larger. Using 12 volts should pull the solenoid in faster and with more force and turn the starter faster. There isn't something in the starter preventing the starter drive moving and limiting plunger travel? You could remove the cover on the original solenoid and look at the contacts. The old ones could be taken apart, the contacts cleaned and the copper plate turned over.
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