I'm building 34 Ford pu I'm gonna be boxing frame in future but before I do what's best nuts/ nuplates or whatever u guys use for all my stuff that's gonna be bolted to frame. Cab, runningboards., shock mounts etc thanks
I just made 1/4" flat plate tabs for all my mounts, drilled and tapped them to suit and welded to inside of frame as well as welding up all unnecessary holes before boxing. When welding up boxing I just installed old bolts to prevent MIG splatter damaging the threads as I didn't have a TIG. I later cleaned out the threads with taps.
You might also consider 'flange nuts' They have a nice wide base that makes for a good weld and the larger diameter gives the nut more 'footing' should the bolts ever become a little resistant to being removed in the future. That is also true of the flat tab plates mentioned in above post, which will work very well, but do require the tapping process. Ray
If you need sub frame bolts that go on TOP of the frame, figure out your bolt and nut size, mark the holes on the frame rail, and drill a hole slightly smaller than the nut dia. Then take a step drill, and open the hole up slowly until the nut almost goes in. If the bolts are 3/8" take a piece of 3/8" threaded rod about a foot long, screw the nut on the end, and using a hammer, drive it into he hole, leaving it slightly "proud" of the flat. Use the threaded rod to make sure it's in straight, and run a bead of weld around it. You'll get plenty of weld contact because the nut is hexagonal, and the hole is round( and somewhat tapered). The rod will keep spatter out of the threads. Anything on the sides of the rail, I drill and tap for a 1/4-20 bolt and use the appropriate clips, brackets ,etc., for brake lines, cables, wiring.
Another option: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FIXTHR.html available in 5/16, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes...
Mine was done sorta like this. I drilled the frame/plate holes after the body/bed and fenders were set on the frame for alignment. You don't have to worry about your hole being off if you just drill out a hole in the plate wherever you want it. You can drill and tap the holes to fit the body mount holes after you align the body/fenders/bed.
McMaster-Carr sells various types of threaded nuts .... http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=1186d6a or look on pages 3232, 3 & 4
https://www.fastenal.com/products/f...8C053D2100A9B9B16855.fcomjvm03?r=~|categoryl1:"600000%20Fasteners"|~%20~|categoryl2:"600072%20Nuts"|~%20~|categoryl3:"600123%20Weld%20Nuts"| ~%20~|sattr01:^Steel$|~ Fastenal weld nuts, I end up using flange nuts a lot of times. Cage nuts are nice too, gives a little wiggle room for adjustments
As said already i think best to use 1/4 plate cut drilled and taped. I have found if you just weld standard nuts , whatever the prosses, not much meat left to helicoil later if you have to. Or those square head nuts have a lot of extra material too. Just the way I do it,
Since your disappointed I'll leave this here... What do you call nuts hanging on a wall?.... Walnuts... What do you call nuts on a chest?... Chestnuts... What do you call nuts on your chin?...
That's a great idea.... And for those who don't know what spring nuts are, they're special nuts for use in Unistrut (AKA Kindorf), you can get them at electrical supply places. I've never seen any NF thread types, but most NC are available. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut-3-8-in-Channel-Spring-Nut-5-Pack-ZA1003-8EG-10/100179881
I used 1/2 flat stock 3 inch long pieces to spread any load. Then drilled and tapped welded to inside frame. Here is pic you can kind of see.
Awesome ideas guys I never thought of the 1/4 inch plate idea! I may do some searching little more on these items choose the best one
If no one has mentioned it weld nuts work real well. It is a nut with a round turned on it that sticks through the hole that the nut is being welded behind. Otherwise just an everyday nut will also work.
When welding nuts to the frame I have some old ARP bolts that I cut 2 grooves in the threads that I use to hold the nuts in place. That way if there is any distortion in the threads from the heat of welding, it chases the threads on the way out. Works great. I used ARP bolts cause they are so dam hard.
I'll give another vote for spring nuts. They work great. It might be overkill but I ground the zinc off where the weld was going to contact the nuts. I've experienced zinc poisoning once so I don't take any chances.
On my 34, I welded unplated 3/8ths coarse square nuts [mom&Pop hardware store got 'em for me] and welded each one to a 2"X1" piece of 3/16ths mild steel strap. Ran the 3/8ths bolt down through the body and frame with the body mounted and welded the hunk of mild steel to the inside of the top rail. Unscrewed the body bolt and viola! Done..
I'd use rod coupling nuts. This way I'd have lots of threads in case of a cross thread or any other mis-hap. Using a step drill, I made a hole that partially had the next larger opening in the same hole. Then tap the nut into the interference to grip the nut This held it well in place and actually engaged the frame. Weld the top flush, then welded a "leg" on the bottom for strength. Not rocket science but hey.[/ATTACH]
I use heavy duty nuts on the inside. They have a larger hex. I also use a 1/2 dia. shoulder screw (it has a 3/8-16 thread), it centers them perfectly in the holes. McMaster-Carr 1/2" Shoulder Dia.—Head Dia.: 3/4", Head Ht.: 5/16" 3/8" 3/8"-16 5/8" 91259A705 2.15 1.83 Extra-Wide Hex Nuts Uncoated 3/8"-16 11/16" 23/64" 50 90521A225 10.92
3/8" flat bar for drilling / tapping later as previously suggested, albeit in 1/4", but with the flat bar pre sized such that it holds any boxing plates in exactly the place you want them - makes clamping in the boxing plates much simpler. The drilling and tapping will take you 1/2 a day though, well it does at my pace! Chris
As a typical rule of thumb the bolt needs the same thickness as it is wide for threads... So I would not recommend drilling and tapping a 3/8 bolt into a 1/4 plate. Use 3/8 plate for 3/8 bolt, 1/4 plate for 1/4 bolt, etc etc...
1/4 plate welded to 1/8 ,about A frame thickness, is 3/8ths.... Assuming you weld it then drill and tap.
Use brass or copper bolts to locate nuts when welding, weld won't stick in threads. Dip plated nuts in muratic acid to remove plating for clean welding.
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