Customs 700R4 lockup kits

Well you need a lock-up kit assuming you use a converter with a clutch, yes. And you need a TV cable unless you run a full manual valve body.

 

OK, thanks. I've never run a 770 before, always 350 turbo's, so easy to use. Everyone say's I should try a 700, so I got one, but kinda scared too, the unknown I guess.

 

You need the TV cable to correctly control the transmission. Read here:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/part2.php
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/part3.php

for some good info on that. You need the lockup control, whether automatic or manual switch control, to control the lockup clutch in the torque converter.

 

Thanks you,

 

200R4 same size as 350 for easier install - don't forget need lower rear gears with overdrive

 

The T-350 with 9" tail shaft is 1/16" longer than a 700R. That's what was in my cpe when I changed to the 700 and all I had to do was move the trans mount back, the driveshaft was fine. The 200R is the same size overall of the T-350 with a 6" tailshaft.

 

There are plenty of companies making converters for the 700R4 with no clutch, and honestly, I would question the worth of it. And the clutch adds weight to the converter. Even with a full on street racer type converter mine only drops about 150 rpm when I engage it on the highway. I hardly ever use it.
The 700 needs a slightly shorter driveshaft and the mount is farther back. The trans itself isnt really any bigger than the 350 it was based on.

Edit: should add here, the driveshaft may work without change, depending on how deep the yoke was originally engaged.

 

Yes, and someone said remember to unlock converter before you slow down, the internal switch unlocks it automatically. Heres a link on setting tv cable,
http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

 

Also, you need at least a 3.73 gear. In O.D. you get a 2.61.

 

I have the bowtie overdrives kit in my 37 Buick, works great. Locks up in 4th and is tied to the brake switch so it unlocks when slowing down. I agree with the above as far as gearing, but it also depends on tire size, if you end up with too high a final drive ratio you can get hunting in and out of 4th and the lockup would make it worse as far as lugging the engine. I have driven cars with a tall rear gear and the 700, left it in D unless out on the highway and then shifted into OD. I have a 3:73 gear and 275/60 rear tires, shifts into 4th around 45mph.

 

Mine sure doesnt, and if you forget, it will remind you by lugging, chugging, then stalling...I think you are thinking of a bone stock 700R4 with the factory converter and an unmodified valve body. Which I personally would not trust in any modified street car...Your mileage may vary.

 

I have a 3.42 gear in mine running 265/60 X 15 rear. According to a lot of postings here the 700R is black magic. I think it has to be one of the most black balled/misunderstood trannies around. I've run mine for 15 years, I set it up with the geometry correcter link and I haven't had any of the problems so many complain about. I didn't do the pressure testing stuff just adjusted it until it felt and drove right I'm also running a Lokar TV cable not the plastic OE click style cable

 

I have 4.56's with a 275/60/15 behind mine, the .70 od knocks that down to the equivalent of a 3.19 rear gear, which is PERFECT. With the 4000 stall converter, I run a little shy of 2800 rpm at 70 mph with the converter unlocked, if I flip the lockup, it drops to around 2600. The speed limit here is 55mph, if I ran 4.10s, the motor would be at 2000 rpm at 55, it wouldnt be "happy" at that rpm. But with the 3.06 low, the 4.56s are too short in first, they are the equivalent of 5.38's behind a 350, and radials cant hook it up on the street. The spread in a 200r4 would be better. I am doing a bit of a makeover, part of that will be close ratio 1/2 gear set, which will move first to 2.84 and second to 1.56, that should get all the ratios RIGHT where I want them, and REALLY make it fun to drive.
I mounted the lock-up switch so with my hand resting on the shifter knob, I can flip it with my pinky, its really easy to use. Its oriented so up is locked.


I have run 4 series gears all my life, for me, the OD backed with a 4 series gear is really having your cake and eating it too. Such a sweet combination on the street...

 

I also have a manual switch on mine, but I do the same, in town I mostly manually shift 1-2-3 and never go into 4th.

 

On the 700?

Tell me more, tell us more!

How do you change the low/first gear drive?

Would love to see you start a new thread on this, I'd be all eyes, ears, screen monitoring...lol...ya get my drift!

 

Dont know if I could get away with that, the vehicle is WAAAAY off-topic...
Its something a guy probably shouldn't tackle himself unless he is comfortable building automatics, you have to pull the front pump, input shaft, forward drum, band, and the first two clutch packs.

You can find the gear set here,
http://transmissioncenter.net/
but you have to scroll down to " 700R4 / 4L60E "Power Gear ". I have heard they are actually made by CK performance, who is better known for their 200R4's. Its not cheap, but if you are like me and really drive your shit hard, and are really focused on performance, its well worth it.

 

carbureted 350, @3600 lbs. 3.08's with 700r4. Phoenix wiring. Put it in drive and forget it, will smoke tires in low if wanted, cruises at 65 mph 1800 rpm. no switches to push on or off.

 

For those of you that stayed on topic, thanks for your input. I think I'll go for the Bowler system with its 8 second delay and I'll put in a toggle. So, it will engage 8 seconds after a shift into 4th. And disengage on a downshift into 3rd, or a brake application, or a toggle off. I like that idea of having that toggle switch on the shift lever itself. Maybe have a push button instead of toggle.
This system has no vacuum switch. I have read elsewhere about some people having problems with the vacuum switch, cycling on and off with slight throttle changes. If I get the Bowler installed, and if I think that a vacuum switch would improve it, it looks like I can buy an adjustable vacuum switch online. And just wire it in, in series, to the existing system.

 

That's nonsense. I bought a 1986 Pontiac in 1988 that was equipped with the 700 R4 behind the 305.
The car had a fleet odometer and when I sold the car in 2003 it was reading 685,350 Kilometers.
In that time, transmission fluid and filter was changed once.
I'd say that was pretty durable wouldn't you?

 

I went through four of em in a diesel suburban,I'd say that was junk,wouldn't you?

 

For those of us who like to run an override switch a floor mounted headlamp hi/low bean switch works great...no hands.

 

It is funny since the 4L60 is based off the 700. Sure they had problems with the early ones. But that's been long figured out by now.

 

I assume that there are documented failures of whatever your transmission of choice is. Please share so that we can point out its weaknesses.

 

One thing I can guarantee is that I'll never blow up another Chevy trans as long as I live! The only thing I'll use Chevys for is crusher weight.

 

no.....

 

I bought a kit from somebody, been about 4 years ago, so I can't really remember who, but think it was Rebel Wire. Very simple setup, there is an accumulator on the right side of the trans that has an aluminum cover on it about 4 inches in diameter. You have to drill a hole in the cover and tap it to 1/4 inch pipe. Then install a small single wire pressure switch. There is a 2 terminal cavity on the left side of the trans near and above the shifter stud. You need to provide a 12 volt fused feed to one of the terminals, and run a wire from the other terminal to the pressure switch install in the accumulator. The accumulator / servo receives pressure when 4th gear / overdrive is being used. That provides a ground to the switch for torque converter lockup whenever you are in 4th gear, and then drops back out when ever the trans downshifts. Simple, and works great. I've been running the setup in my old truck for about 3 years with no problems.