I got the Bendtsen's transmission adapter mounted, however the crank adapter did not fit because of the two dowels in the crank. I'll have to call them and see what they've got that will fit or if I'll have to remove them. I don't have a torque converter yet so the transmission is just mocked up for now. I had to notch the frame to clear the transmission pan as you can see in the last pic. Also finished the transmission mount. Next up is setting up the rear end. After removing all of the driveline I'm finding out the person who patched the floors did a horrible job so one day I'll have to take the body off to fix them properly. I'll just do the best I can on them for now.
I see you notched your x-frame for the transmission fit. How much did you beef it up to overcome the notch ??
I cut a 6" piece of 2"x4" 3/16 angle (which made an almost 90° notch with the angled frame rail) and welded it all around the inside of the framerail. Then I cut out the bottom and 4.5" up the frame rail for the notch and welded all around the inside. I also plated some lift points on the front of the frame with 1/4" plate. I'll get a pic of that later.
Tacked up the bag mounts and lower link mounts. Here's one of the the lift points I plated. Excuse the ugly welds haha
Ok, I've got the rear end centered and set at ride height. the pinion angle is set as well. I moved the lower axle mounts over so the lower bars are mounted on the inside the frame rails. They're tacked in place all level and in line. I've run into a problem with the upper bars... I planned on mounting them to the top of the frame as ive seen several people do. I already cut the foors for clearance. I'm just having some trouble finding how and what to measure to get the angle and length I need for the uppers. Can you determine this angle by measuring off of the framerail? With the body on I don't see how I can measure from the centerline of the car. Any help would be appreciated as I fall further into the rabbit hole of 4 link suspensions.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/triangulated-4-link.html. Upper bars should be about 70% as long as the under bars. What angle you mean? Sideways i measured the uppers from the axle. 45 degrees. Up/down: paralell with the under bars, or pointing down towards the front a little bit. I also fabricated a new crossmember between the framerails so i got the uppers the opposite way = no floor cutting
Thanks man, think I've got it figured out. The top right bar still needs to be finished but after several hours of messin with it I got the other one tacked in place at a 40* angle. I had to shorten it to 18" but it fits very well.
With what you learned about the front end, do you think it's possible to run a mustang II coil over shock up front and leave the rest stock
Not sure, id have to see the coilover. You could always mount a shock on the frame and lower control arm.
It will take some modifying to fit again. The trans tunnel will have to be raised a bit. I've seen people cut up the seat frame or raise the seat. IMO the rear seat was a bit low to begin with it wouldn't bother me to raise it up.
4 link is burned in. I need to measure for a driveshaft and shocks and get those ordered this week. The C notch, shock mounts, and floors are really the only things left for me to make.
We got the trans all put together this weekend and I started to rebuild the rear end. Also did the c notch.
I'm going to build a header to use with that dual carb intake and run duals or I've been kickin around the idea of lake pipes. That's a long way down the road though. For now I'm just gonna leave it dumped under the car.
The Jalopy Journal
