Technical Larger capacity 110v air

Looking for a bigger air compressor, have the biggest 110v option that sears makes. I'd really like 60 gallons, but I also only have 110 available.
Found this BelAire version that runs on 110 and 220, seems like a good option.
Anyone else have input?

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/BelAire-2061V-Air-Compressor/p4786.html

 

There should be plenty of 'smallish' 5hp compressors available. Remember that the 110v usage is directly related to the size of the electric motor and the new generation of 5hp is about max. I have seen some listed as 6 & 7½hp but that is questionable labeling imho. The bigger question is CFM, and small compressors usually have small pumps.
Since you are limited to 110v then buy a compressor by cfm and compare at the same listed psi.
Your challenge will be to decide if brand-x is really worth 2x more than brand-y.

The big safety concern is whether or not your outlet is wired with 12 gauge (20 amp capacity) or smaller 14 gauge (15 amp capacity) wire. Don't start a fire........

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Can you just plumb another tank beside it? If there are adequate pauses between uses it can catch up in the down time. That way you save the expense of another compressor.

However, If you need quicker production of air, maybe someone else can answer better.

 

Run two 110 volt compressors plumbed together in a common big tank.

 

The Bel Aire compressor requires a 30 amp breaker @ 110 volts. That means a 2 wire 10 gauge circuit plus a ground. It's not just a plug and play setup.
KK

 

Couldn't he just plumb two 110 volt compressors' smaller tanks together?

How would he get the compressors to come on at the same time? Maybe a relay from one motor to turn on the other motor?

 

Better off to install the 220 service and run a 220 compressor.

 

What blue One said.220 is less amps as that what you are paying for.

 

A true 5 hp at 110 V requires 34 amps (***uming no line loss, and a 100% efficient motor), no way that is going to end well for you on a common 20 amp household line. That is why you don't see 5 hp motors rated at 110 V. 3 to 3.5 hp is about the max you will ever see commercially available for a 110 V service. If you do run 2 smaller compressors together, make sure they are on independent circuits.

Pay an electrician to install the 220 V line, and be done with it.

 

if your place has modern wiring there should be no problem putting in a 220 breaker and wiring it up. also just ignore the HP ratings on most compressors as it is just a joke. I had a 5 HP Craftsman compressor and got a giant Quincy pump for free. (so big I had to use my engine hoist to put it on the tank) ... the 5 HP craftsman motor would not even bring it up to full pressure before shutting off but a 3 HP Baldor motor worked just fine

 

They've been playing fast and loose with horsepower ratings on 'consumer' power equipment for years. Calling it 'running HP' or 'developed HP' to get whatever number the marketing guys think will sell...

One horsepower is equal to 746 watts, period. And watts is volts times amps. Every 'listed' (by a nationally recognized testing lab, or NRTL) motor is required to have the voltage, full-load amps, and sometimes the power factor (PF) shown on the data nameplate. Note that if it isn't UL-listed (or one of the other recognized listing labs), if it causes a fire you could conceivably have your fire insurance voided. To find the true HP, multiply the input volts by the amps then divide by 750. Take that number and multiply by the PF (typically .9 if it's not shown) to get close to actual HP.

Also keep in mind that an overcurrent device (whether it's a fuse or a breaker) WILL NOT support a circuit current at it's full rating; you MUST derate it to 80% of it's rating. So a 15A breaker is only good for 12A, 20 for 16, and 30 for 24, etc. Depending on the type of overcurrent protection, further derating may be needed to prevent nuisance tripping (and damage to the breaker) due to motor inrush current on starting. The typical 'home' inverse-time circuit breaker should be derated to 50% for safe, reliable use.

 

Add another tank if you need more reserve. If you need more volume go 220.

 

All you have to do is install a 2 pole circuit breaker. You don't need a second 110v circuit, you can change a 110v circuit into a 220v circuit by removing the 110v circuit's neutral (white) from the neutral bus bar and connecting it to the second pole of the new 2 pole breaker. A single pole breaker feeds only one hot and returns on a neutral to the panel. a 2 pole breaker uses two hots, you would be using the old 'neutral' as the second hot from the breaker. Keep in mind this wil only be safe provided your breaker only changes from 1 pole to 2 pole and the actual breaker amperage doesn't change. So you could get a 15 amp or 20 amp 220v circuit in this manner. For anything larger than that, you would need to actually replace the wire with a larger size.

 

Like Steve said. P=IxE or Watts=Amps x Volts. 2400W = 20A x 120V. 1HP=746W. So 2400W/746W=3.22HP. A 20A circuit is 3.2HP and 15A is 2.4HP. Plus you need to add in the allowances Steve brought up.

 

As for the above post, suggesting that you can run 220 volts through regular 14 gauge wire that previously was installed as a 110 volt circuit is at best stupid and at worst dangerous.
I can't imagine that an idiotic thing like that would be acceptable under any electrical code.

 

I guess the big question here is do you need air for a long time or a lot of air for a short period of time. When I used to paint, I didn't want the compressor cycling while painting. I got a 300 gallon tank out of a facility that shut down. I ran the compressor until I had 150 psi in the tank and shut it off. I let it sit for an hour or so before painting to let any moisture settle out. With the regulator set at 40 psi I could paint an entire car without running out of air.

I'd either add a second tank or a second compressor.

 

Blue one & others have it.
Get the 220 & be done with it.
And DON'T even think about that idea of using the neutral wire to get 220 volts

 

Actually, all building wire is generally rated for at least 250 volts, most for 600v. It's all about the amps...

As to using the neutral as a 'hot', even that is OK as long as you re-identify the wire (change the color from white) everyplace that it's accessible. This isn't legal for new installations anymore, but is acceptable for a rework in most jurisdictions.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. For now I think I'll just **** it up with my tank I have. For big stuff I can talk my neighbor into borrowing his big 60 gallon he never uses

 

as stated above, better to get some 12 ga. romex and run a new 20 amp circuit. it may seem daunting, but it's really not a difficult job...