Im looking for nice drums and some parts . message me please ! Sent from my SM-N900V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
plans changed.. after much consideration, and remembering that I have grenaded 3 T-5 Transmissions in my life, I decided to run something way different for a trans. I sold off my t5, and kept the adapter . I plan on adapting a Mopar A833 Trans to the chevy adapter behind my flathead. with gear ratios like 1st-3.09 2nd-1.67 3rd-1.00 4th-0.73 this will be a much better choice. and a real 4 gear! Sent from my SM-N900V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Look's like a pretty exciting build!!!!!! Great taste I'll add as well, (save maybe for the QC . Kidding of course. Looking forward to seeing the build progress. Great job so far.
i have been working with Dave Farwell over at Vintage Metal Works in Atwater Ohio on the adapter i need to put this A833 behind a flathead ford... There are so many more options for transmissions behind these vintage engines, other than a t-5! Dont get me wrong, the T-5 is cheap, and fairly simple to adapt, they also have a great range of ratios through the gears. However, t-5's are getting harder and harder to come by. Most everyone wants the world class, converted to the 4 cylinder tail housing and mechanical speedo.. good luck with all that... you can rack up a $1000 in a trans in a hurry if your buying a rebuilt one and making it what you need... The OD is nice, but i just feel the trans do not hold up to a HOTROD engine, or a hotrodder with a real heavy foot. Just my opinion. I have broke my share of them, thats for sure. So here we go, starting to adapt a Chrysler A833 to a flathead ford... Gm used the same trans called a MY-6. it had a shorter input shaft, and some of them had the same GM bolt pattern as a muncie. To start adapting this trans, i decided to stick with the Flathead-T5 adapter from speedway. I dont like the clutch set up using a pressed steel bell from a shoebox. Then we need to space the trans back 1 inch so that the clutch splines, and input shaft are far enough away from the clutch disc and the pilot bushing. We are planing on milling a simple 1 inch plate, with the diameter of the a833 bearing retainer, counter bored down in, then on the other side it will have the gm retainer diameter protruding out to center the diameter in the adapter and the plate. Sounds simple.... it is with a fancy cnc mill. This is why dave is taking care of this part! i have used his adapter for a T-5 behind a SBC using a truck bell... and it was so perfect, i couldnt ask for anything better. and it was made here in the USA by a working man, on to the rest.. Tennessee clutch and supply sell a 9 inch, A833 clutch disc, with the a flush flywheel side, for less than $40..... another quality part, made in the USA, by a working man... Using that disc, on a 8ba flywheel, running a 9 inch car pressure plate. That takes care of the clutch end! I like to use 9 inc setup, because there is plenty of clearance in the adapter for it... And i didnt slip a 9 inch clutch with a 350hp 327, so my .40 over 8BA isnt going to do it either. The throw out bearing.... The a833 bearing retainer had a diameter of 1.248".. the ford throw out bearing yoke is 1.7530" ID so we will need to make a sleeve, 1.253 ID x 1.7525 OD x the length of the a833 bearing retainer. This will allow a nice press fit so you can run a stock ford 3 speed flathead throw out bearing.. Option #2 is to make a small collar, that will press inside the ford 3 speed yoke, and ride on the factory a833 retainer tube.. this would need to be 1.255 ID x 1.7535 OD x 1.250 long. Either option is doable. Option #2 sounds a little more simple to me. Then if you have a throw out bearing go bad, you will just need to make sure you use the original yoke. option #1, you can throw any new bearing in there and not work about it.. The original A833 bearing and yoke, fits right on to the 3 speed clutch fork, however the surface of the bearing for the clutch arms, is just to small. Pilot bushing. i dug around in my tool box till i found several bushings. most of them were a roller bearing for a t5/8ba... but i found 2 bronze oil-lite bushings.. these were from a FE ford. one was the right OD, the other was huge, so i decided the big one would be my test dummy. I chucked it up in the lathe. And bored it to .755, as when its pressed in, it will be .750. just as chrysler recommends for an a833. And knowing that works. Now you can take a regular 8BA bronze bushing, and bore it with a 3/4 drill bit, and itll work just fine. it leaves enough clearance after pressed in, to support the input shaft. Dave and i havent milled the aluminum adapter yet. we are still double checking everything, then we may actually 3D print a plastic model to make sure its perfect. Below are some pictures of what i have been messing with. i just scored a nice little logan shop lathe, so im playing with it. Next i will be making the throw out bearing collar... enjoy....
Here you go Ben, I worked on the adapter a little bit on my lunch break. This is REV B. Since I didn't have a trans or a bell housing in front of me, I swiped a picture of a 440 bell off of the Googles on brought it into my Cad software. From there, I roughly sized it correctly and sketched the bolt pattern. Since it's too big for the 3D printer, I'll machine a mock up out of some wood before I go order aluminium.
I also found out today that the A833 i have came from a truck, it uses the larger of the 2 bearing retainers, but even better yet, it has the higher .071:1 Overdrive instead of the .073:1..... Any little bit helps.!
Ben, Found the rear brake parts and sent you a PM. This is looking good so far. Keep it going. Got an email from Ken today and it is looking like I am going to hook up with the Bones boys and make the trip to the LARS this June. Think you can make it? Just joking, but it will be a blast for sure. I sure hope we get to do the salt this year and get in some racing, but both Ken and I are not holding out breath on this happening.
lucky you!! i would love to be on that trip! not till next year though. im pretty nervous that ill never get a chance to be on the salt at speed week... fingers crossed
Always like following your builds, Ben. I'm a railbird for this one, too! It's good to know about that A833 overdrive trans. I have a mid-'70s Ford RUG (0.78 4th gear) in my A coupe and, with the tall rear cheaters on it, it absolutely loves the highways, and has a stout low to launch like crazy. Options are good.
Just for anyone else looking for this transmission, the a833 is a regular 4 speed (1:1 final) and cam available as an overdrive in the '70's, as well. The GM version was known as the MY6 option as noted in post back a while. It's found in pickups and vans.
a small update. I received the pattern from vintage metal works, @Inline .. We have a few small changes to make on the prototype, and it will be perfect! Dave milled it out of wood so that it could be easily modified. This really made it nice to work with. So here it is put together. I didnt tap threads in the wood, so there is no bolts holding it. But it fits tight and looks as if all the depths are correct... im not usually a big fan of stacking adapters. But this one is done right and fits nice and tight. Without recasting the Speedway T5 adapter, adding material to it, and changing all the layout completely.... this is the only way feasible. next step is aluminum
Not to much to report as far as updates. Still waiting on a bunch of parts from guys and Flop is still working on the 3w body.. I sent my original 3w dash to him also. He fixed it up very nicely! I want to have him chop the car as well, but i am afraid right now, its just way to far outside my budget. So it will have to wait till he car is mostly assembled and is mobile. I was hoping to have the body on the chassis and assembled by the 4th of July. But that is not going to be possible. No problem, ill just keep plugging away at it till i get enough stuff to assemble the car. Here is a few photos of Toms work on the dash..
Not to much to report as far as updates. Still waiting on a bunch of parts from guys and Flop is still working on the 3w body.. I sent my original 3w dash to him also. He fixed it up very nicely! I think your dash looks great in that "other" 3 Window. Hopefully it won't get welded in it during the chop.
Update I finally got my wheels back from paint. They look OK, im not happy with how the painter missed a few edges on the inside, But overall, they look good! I got the Excelsiors mounted. This will be debate, but they say TUBE TYPE tire, however they are a radial. Manufacturer says they need a tube with the rivited wheels, but with welded wheels, there is no reason for a tube. Any thoughts on that?? Im not running tubes. I have ran many tires like this before and never had any issues at all. I have had issues with a dry tube inside a tire rubbing. So if the installer didnt lube them up well, eventually they were crap anyways... But here is what they are! ready to see them on a rolling chassis!
Also picked up some new 40 delux hub caps from dennis carpenters . Sent from my SM-S920L using H.A.M.B. mobile app
From what they told me, it is a concern with no safety bead on the early wheels even though it is a radial. Some people run tubes some don't with the excelsiors and I haven't heard of issues either way. What width are your rear wheels?
I'm running 4 inch wheels all the way around . I've herd shout the safety bead. Not sure how much tunes would help that. To me, if your tube gets low , it will fall of the bead just as without . Sent from my SM-S920L using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Agreed, it's just Coker covering their ass. I'm going to run the tubes only because of my New England pitted wheels. If the bead area was super clean I wouldn't use the tubes either.
The trans is finally adapted to the 8ba. It looks great and is going to work very well... Sent from my SM-S920L using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ben, How about a two piece cap mallory for the 8BA . I will get one off the wall and started for ya ????????
I'll be in touch ! I have a few here converted from SBC to 8ba, that need all set up also . I'm affriad they may have some condenser issues . Sent from my SM-S920L using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
