Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Nice looking wheel!

 

That's a Tommassini wheel right? Those look real nice. Wish I could afford to spend that kinda money on one...

 

Yes, can't wait to get the stand complete..

 

Wanted a split rear window for my project.
Started off with a sliced diced stretched 36 ford coupe rear window.


Drew up the curves I wanted against the existing framework.


Center punched the bend lines and cuts


Combination of tipping wheel, vicegrips, post dolly and hammer gets here.
Tipping wheel could have been left unused and done all with vicegrips and post dolly and an improvised dolly.




Welded in the center section and staring the cut in process

Tacked in. Getting cardboard temp lets for filler pieces




One side fit in

 

Wow very nice work looks factory!!Hobo Jim

 

Awesome job Steve..

 

Very cool!

Nice work

 

First off, yes, it's still bolted to the pallet.





And the more I thought about it I just couldn't bring myself to use fabricated legs. So today was spent driving a 5 hour round trip to pick up some suitable legs..





Here's the lower plate, and by my estimation I need about 4 inches of rise, so it will get some riser plates between the bottom plate and top plate..








More to come..... need to find a nice bright color that will have Peter in sunglasses for his next visit..

 

It's comforting to know that details like legs matter to others.
Stuff like that is either trivial or of the utmost importance.
Everyone who fabs anything knows legs could have been whipped up out of pipe or tube to hold the wheel. Or Even copied out of plate and bent, but somehow it's just not the same is it? I don't know exactly why, but, it matters and when stuff like that does matter, it shows 10 fold.

 

Finishing up on the English wheel, the legs are bolted on with 1/2" bolts with nuts welded inside the riser.











The wheel is held on with 3/4 bolts, with nuts welded inside the top plate of the riser.











The John Deere lift device....











The wheel is set up at 48-1/2"





























We wheeled a couple scrap panels, crushed some tucks, tipped a panel. Very pleased with the new wheeling machine.

 

Love the wheel and great idea for chalkboard. Blue

 

dont know what rock i have been living under, but dont think i have seen this thread before. here are some examples of some of my metal shaping projects

fiat topolino metal work. rear spare tire well made from 1 piece














1 piece lower quarter/ rocker repair piece







chevy rear fender made in 2 pcs















start of a model a coupe 1/4



some packard fender fillers



made some 32 sedan door skins on the wheel

 

Beautiful work Mike!

The holder made for the dry erase markers is mounted with a hinge at the top to keep from dumping anything when the door opens...

 

not that the other stuff wasn't impressive, but damn that 1 piece spare tire well impressed the snot out of me.

 

I have found that adding spokes to the adjuster wheel - a la a ship's wheel - and numbering them helps me return to a previous pressure setting when I have to remove the workpiece from the E-wheel. I'll post some pics.

 

Punched more louvers last night, this time in 18 gauge polished stainless...


Motion pictures.... Punching...





Finished....

 

wow! Have you tried curved louvers?

 

The Lennox does have a circle cutter fixture, so should be able to do those as well. But no, not yet..

 

Question from an uninitiated reader. I am wondering about the machine used to form the louvres. I guess that you raise the bed or tool post to increase the depth of the louvre on each pass, but at the beginning / end of each pass, the operator opens and closes a lever to the side of the machine. Never having seen this done, (or the tooling / equipment) , I was curious as to what the lever controlled in the process. Please forgive my lack of knowledge

 

The lever is used on the very last pass, it coins the ends of the louver for sharper creases to match the rest of the louver.

 

Thank you Robert for answering my query and for increasing my knowledge.

 

I recently did some streamlining and upgrades to a Land Speed Car I built a couple of years ago. The job consisted of enclosing the roll cage, along with adding an air intake scoop complete with air box and intake filter. I used .050, 3003 alloy aluminum for the project. The scoop is attached with aircraft screws rather than welding, as the car will run with different engines, supercharged and normally aspirated.

 

Outstanding work , a reel artist!

 

Here are some wheel skirt structures I made using the Pullmax.
I made an aluminum table that is held by the lower tool post holder, and just a round flat faced upper die, with rounded edges. Then you cut out two aluminum (or wood) blanks for each recess you want to put into your sheetmetal. Use a material who's thickness is how deep of a draw you want in your panel, 3/8" in this case. (make sure you round the edges on the aluminum so that your metal draws around it, instead your sheetmetal just getting sheared)



Then you bolt the aluminum together with your sheetmetal sandwiched in-between. You just the top blank as a guide for the upper die to draw the metal around your lower blank. you keep going around the blanks in small increments, till you reach the desired depth. Here is a time lapse of on of the skirts. This one took some work because it was such a deep draw.



Then this was the piece when I came out. You then fill the holes where your blanks were bolted together, and you have finished recesses.

 

You always have interesting projects going Marty. Looks very nice.

 

Great thread!

 

I've got a pretty good selection of dies for my bead roller and thought these may come in handy if we could adapt them to the lower anvil cradle on the Wheeling Machine.. I've got a couple dies I use for tipping, and you never know when some other odd shape may help out in a pinch. The Fasti bead roller uses a .94 shaft for the dies, so we started with an oilite bearing, 15/16 outer to 3/4 inner diameter, then a 3/4 outer to 1/2 inner, supported on a piece of 1/2" diameter hardened Stainless..





The two oilites were a tight fit, so they were "pressed" together in the vise..











And to finish it off we have a couple of shaft collars on the way so the die won't walk on us while in use..


Saturday had us performing major shop cleanup so we could better get to an assembly line efficiency in polishing stainless trim and block sanding painted parts. I guess we walked past this one too many times...





....and since the Lennox still had some dies in it from last week....





The outer perimeter will get trimmed a bit more and we'll add a small bead detail on the very edge prior to bolting it on...

 

WOW! I need to visit this thread more often. Robert thanks for the Louver video, someday I'd like you to make hood sides for one of my projects. Bob

 

Time to give this thread a bump...

Got a "requirement" for some bead detail work and don't need the panels losing any of their shape. The bead roller does a nice job, but the forming process is more of a relocation of the metal from elsewhere, which would cause a panel to possibly lose some crown.

The Lennox (Pullmax) as a reciprocating machine does a better job of stretching the metal as the bead is formed, so there is less issue of losing panel crown.

Here we're making the female die in the South Bend milling machine.





Ball end milling bit clamped in the chuck, square stock clamped in the Aloris tool holder..





The ends of the tooling was also turned in the lathe to give a nice round feature that will work better for use with a guide.











Test run...





Nice crisp lines, the "chatter" should be cleaned up if I can get the feed speed more consistent. The small diameter of the upper die's "punch" provides the needed stretch, with the downside being the marking from too fast of a feed speed. Making the upper die in more of an oval shape will eliminate most of the marking, but it won't stretch as well.. To keep from losing panel crown, stretch is our preference here..





This shows how well the die provides stretch, when you can add a bead in the middle of a panel....





......and there's no distortion on the ends of the bead on an otherwise flat panel..

 

Very nice work ...