I am going to be replacing the master cylinder on the olsdmobile station wagon tomorrow{it has a slow leak from sitting so long}The question is when I disconnect the rod from the brake pedal how far do I have to adjust the rod? Thanks.Bruce.
Until you have the right amount of free play on non assisted brakes. If power, refer to the shop manual.
I'd like to try and answer your, but I don't understand it. ?? Be more specific. Normally, manual masters have the push rods retained in the primary piston. A replacement master should have the same length push rod measured from the mounting surface of the master cylinder.
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you about the master cylinder. I got a rebuilt and it didn't work so I got a new one and all the problems were solved after I bench bled it and installed it and bled all the brakes .The brake lights come on and go off as they should now. Thanks Bruce.
I just adjusted mine today on my '67 Land Rover and your description sounds similar to what I have. Basically I just turned the nut on the threaded piston shaft to the same length as it was on the old master cylinder before I replaced it. You could adjust more either way depending if your issue is contact with the brake light activator. My problem was I failed to properly snug down the nut the first time because I failed to notocethe whole rod was turning with the nut and not getting tight so my pedal gradually got closer to the floorboard as the retaining nut slowly worked loose. If I hadn't bothered to check my pedal would eventually have seperated from the master cylinder rod probably just as I was slamming on the brakes! Sent from my SM-G920T using H.A.M.B. mobile app
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