I was trying to find this on here, but couldn't find it. How many gallons should, expect to need? 4 door Styleline Deluxe. Thanks!
A lot of variables here. 2-stage? Single stage? Are you going to use a sealer? Color choice?(some colors require a lot of coats for proper coverage) etc. For my 50, basically the same car, Im spraying PPG DBC basecoat/clearcoat, 2-toned white and green. This paint reduces 1:1 to make sprayable, so basically 1 gallon of paint = 2 gallons sprayable. I got 1 gallon of each color and 2 gallons of clear. This should give me enough paint to do what I have to do and leave a little extra for "re***embly mishaps" Hopefully this helps, feel free to ask questions. I have started painting now and am/will keep updating my build
What are you painting? Are you taking the car apart and doing inside and out? Are you doing a sand mask and shoot? What type of paint? How are you applying paint, Brush, roller, HVLP, suction gun, ect.? All info needed to determine how much paint you will need.
HVLP is the way to go, suction type only 20- 40% laid down the other 60-80% is airborne, HVLP 80% is laid only 20% is airborne these were the numbers back 20 plus years ago, the new guns may have improved since then.I was on a committee for a defense contractor to come up with a way to reduce air pollution and HVLP was new back then, after some testing all spray guns corporate wide were replaced with these, there was Data on how many millions gallons of spray-able product was reduced corporate wide and reduction of filters for disposal from spay booths.
Thank you for replies so far, and sorry gents, I absolutely should have been more clear! I am shooting HVLP in a professional paint booth (friend of my dads is letting us use his bodyshop, and all his guns... ) Car will be in one piece, possibly hood and trunk removed. Sand, primer, sand mask and shoot (a few coats of high build to get her smooth). The paint is a 2016 Honda color, and I was told $120 for for a gallon and reducer. Not sure on whether single or two stage. I need to find that out... Then looking to do a partially flattened clear to achieve a satin look. Color: 2016 Honda - Misty Green Pearl: Paint Code G539P About this amount of sheen:
Get a gallon of color, that way you'll have some left over from the same batch. You may want to experiment with a pint 1st and check coverage. Most OE type pearlish finishes like a ground coat to enhance the effect. To that end try it over white, "gr***" green, black, or even yellow. You'll then have a fix on how much color you'll actually need. As to the flat clear, do as you wish but I'd do 3 coats regular clear, some additional solvent in the last coat to smooth it out. Wet sand complete with 1000, then apply 2 coats of your semi flat/flat finish. The problem with flattening agents is that you get what you get. Got a sag? Live with it. Too much dirt? Oh well. You can't build up the flattened clear. Too much it goes back to shiny, sand a repair, can't polish it, and any number of other minor anomalies. Hope this helps, and you'll need a minimum of 6 qts of clear for a car that size.
This is very helpful, thank you! Any other ways around the satin look? I have seen it done so many times on cars, that I feel like there needs to be a decent way to do it. By all means, this car is not going to be perfect, and a definite driver...
I tried the flatened clear to get a satin look a few years ago on a 51 ford. I had sprayed clear several times before with no issues, i am by no means an expert painter just learned on my own, but on this car no mater what I did it looked like ****. I sanded it all back off and started over with a new maroon base and regular clear, All ppg products. If your gonna do the satin look I would see if you can get a painter that has done it before just to be safe. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Of course, if I admit, one of the reasons I am looking to go satin is because I do not expect perfect bodywork (first car doing my own bodywork) and I know that the gloss will only highlight those areas, and satin will cover them up a little more. And I don't have it in the funds to pay someone to do bodywork and paint...
You have to be patient with satin clear, it may take a cpl days to totally cure/go satin. We did a roof on an old Chevy just to keep it all looking "right" with the rest, went by the can directions, took the weekend to satin out. If the build up is too high it will never flatten out. We did 2 even coats.
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