Much better. I'm done for the day. Happy New year everyone. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Has it been almost 2 months? Time flies. I've found my ambition to get back to work after a sudden death in my family. It's been tough to deal with and being alone in the garage wasn't as the****utic as I had hoped. Here is a quick pic of the frame. The rear bed area is just sitting there and the front cross member is clamped in without castor. I welded the box area to the jig and kept it square then cut it off and welded the main frame to it. This weekend I'll weld it all on and start plating the joints. I got a posies spring and a 1.5" dropped 38 axle as well as some bearings to put the front end together. Still need king pins and some ends and plate hangers for the bones. The truck tip of frame to tailgate will be 15' 3" long and the wheelbase will be 11' 1". Im worried it will be too long so hoping to do a mock up by April 1 with the body and bed. We'll see....
Got the front end on the for first time today, got my plywood wheels made for ride height as well. I tacked the rear bed area on and started the 5 link and air bag setup for the rear. Once I'm happy with the wheel base and rear suspension I'll start gussets and another crossmember. This rear end kit is one I traded for a 38 cab I was into for 75.00. While not specific to my application I'll make it work for the price. As it goes together I'm starting to wonder if it will be lower than I anticipated. Time will tell.
If you want a good turning radi. You might consider not leaving your split bones strait. They may end up being your turn stops before you want it to stop turning. I recomend more mock up with actual tires and wheels you plan to run before you mount the frame ends of bones. The Wizzard
Good advice. I have the front axle stuff but didn't have space so I needed to get the cab on for now. The bones were my next thing to be tackled, I have plywood wheels for the front too. I know I'll have to compensate for tread width etc. Baby steps.
Stalled out like I knew I would. However I'm feeling motivated again. Just took a deposit on the ***mins and put one down on a new power plant. Here is a sneak peak.
Well Christmas came early, or my Birthday is a day late. Either way my 401 showed up today along with a few wonderful additions. I bought the new engine and for an extra 500 the guy threw in some "stuff". Some of the stuff is pictured plus a ST400 with torque converter. Needless to say I'm a happy guy.
Went through the boxes today. I have a ton of Nailhead brackets and pulleys and don't know what does what. I'm searching threads and google images for help. If you spot a bracket or can ID an odd part that would be helpful. I have two starters, I know they're different series but not sure which is early and late. I need to find a flexplate to marry these up. The power steering pump will go, not sure what the bracket with the odd rubber diaphragm is for. I have a duplicate bracket in the top of the pic. Wouldn't mind finding an alternator bracket in favor of the generator (not sure which one is the gen bracket).
I think you need to study this thread carefully. I'm not sure what it is but to me something just seems off at this point. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1937-ford-truck-hot-rod-roadster-build.925593/ This is one of the only trucks built this way that has ever looked "right" to me.
Things are looking real good there. I like your motor mounts. I don't know Buick hardware very well but have done a few hoodless Hot Rods. For me, I'd not worry to much about the pile of brackets. I'd try to make a pair of pulley's out of what's there for crank and water pump, then hang an Alt. in a close in place and build a mount. Often it's as easy as using a threaded hole in a head or the block with a spacer and a front support to the water pump or timing cover bolt. Slotted adjustment arms come in million shapes and lengths. Keep up the good work. The Wizzard
I'll take a look at that thread Blue. My nose is a little longer than his and the grill is raked back right now. It looks better with the dropped axle I have for it but the arms didn't clear it so I used a stock axle. I sold the house and have to have this rolling for the trailer in 6 days so the box is on but not trued up, cab is clamped on etc. it's been a busy couple of months for sure. I was just happy to be able to have it on its own weight for the first time ever.
I saw another hammer do something very close to this. One bolt through the frame on the lower ear then he built two brackets for the upper ears. I'll need my machinist buddy to build some wedges for the lower ear to correct the frame taper. Is this horribly taboo, am I missing something? The steering column angle works and it clears the starter. The other builder
That's a very doable set up. I feel the key is for the two top ears to have good support in the form of gusset's. Notice the one in front of the box on the other build. As far as machinist and a wedge I say nix that idea. On my coupe I drilled holes 90 degrees to center line and welded in sleeves connected to both side of the frame walls. In your case you only need one, then tap it for proper bolt size and thread. Good seeing some progress. The Wizzard
It looks like a workable set up to me too. I don't need to mod the box like the OP, the column centers up in the original opening already (luck). We've been in the new house now 6 months, time to get back to it. I'm itching to build the headers but need to know where the box is going first. I'm also working on mounting the bones, it would be far easier to mount them outside the frame through the front of the cab as I'm afraid a large bump or articulating into a parking lot would cause the bones to rise into the frame, I realize it can limit the turning radius however I think the steering link will be the true limiter. As I ramble on it feels like the box location is the pivot point to it all, get it? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Something to remember about splitting the bones. The closer the frame mount point is to the sector shaft on a vertical line the less bump steer you will have. Think of it like a 4 bar only on one side. The Wizzard
Back at it. Started the "K" member today. I'll make another then stack and gusset it. 1 1/4" .120 wall DOM. I'll be able to finally take the temp cross member out I had to use when we bought our new house. Disregard some of the 1" square tube and 2x4's. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No, but I actually know where they are, they're for sale. If the guy ever comes back to planet earth on the pricing the fenders are in nice shape. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I hear you there. I traded off a project a few years back that was maybe worth 800-1000. The guy must think it's a 32 Ford or something because he's been trying to sell it even since for 4 times the money. I'm actually in need of a 1 1/2 ton front clip. I don't care what year exactly. I have a 37 but from what I understand I can use anything from 35-39 to bolt on. I'm happy with the looks of any of those years. Maybe partial to the 38-39.
Yeah. I read your first post and saw ***mings diesel and thought o oh here comes a closed thread . The skipped to the end and saw a cool hot rod emerge from the dust . So now I have to go back and read the whole thread. The hot rod looks awesome!!!
You do know that half ton fenders are smaller, commercial fenders wheel opening is larger, fenders are wider, ford introduced their first real big truck in 35. Only things in common are grille shell, (slightly different), hood and cab.
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