Started treating the transmission case with top off and internal gears still inside. It's got plenty of surface rust, the gears aren't moving yet. So I decided to try using electrolysis with stainless as the anode instead of plain steel. It's supposed to be less messy. So far no rusty goo. Used TSP as my additive for the water. I used about 3 cups of tsp for 20 gallons or so. Have the charger set on 12V/12 amps. so far it's been running about a day. Tomorrow I'm pulling it out, going over it with a brush and water hose. Then retreat as necessary .
Thanks for sharing ,looking forward to end result photos!....and while i'm typing has anybody ever tried electrolysis with mol***es instead of water?
Couple suggestions, get away from the stainless anode, it will produce hexavalent chromium, think Erin Brockovich. Electrolysis is largely line of sight, unless you can get an anode into the case, you may not get much derusting on the gears. Try wrapping dropping the anode in a piece of pvc with alot of holes drilled in it, sticking it inside to case, pvc will keep it from shorting out where it contacts gears. I've used a rubbermaid, tack welded rebar in loops around the perimeter, used an old grate from an overhead flourescent light to keep my parts from touching. Lasted a long time. I bought 3 old old battery chargers at an equipment auction, made a 20 amp gfci "fuse box" to go in between the wall and charger. The new style chargers never worked for me. I tried an old laptop power supply but never got it working, if anyone has tips.
I know about the fumes from stainless, but thanks for pointing it out. I don't care for the big mess the other anodes make. It is staying outside, no kids or pets around. Last time I did this I built a frame with old 2x8's, lined it with plastic, then proceeded to de-rust some hood parts from a ford 8000 tractor. Worked VERY well.
I've heard of this "line of sight" thing but I tried this on small parts as an experiment and it removed rust on all sides, round, odd shaped and some with cavities. Also tried it on a piece of corroded copper pipe and it cleaned it inside and out. Looked brand new.
Whats your charger set at, what are you using in the water? I've always used arm and hammer washing powder. I ran my electrolysis set up for a while, basically ran out of parts to clean, everything else has enough old paint on it that electrolysis isn't gonna work. I was not getting derusting inside cavities without the anode inside. Not trying to steal the thread, just sharing set up tips.
Was one battery charger enough to run a big tank? I haven't done anything bigger than a large rubbermaid. My set up did OK, needs some work.
It did ok. I think I used a medium setting on the charger, but I used tide for an additive and rebar for an anode. I took my time, wiped the goo off the parts daily and set them back in. I think I treated those parts for about 5 days.
Pulled transmission out of tank. Washed a bunch of goo and gunk out. Putting it back in and rearranging the anodes. Last picture is after a good hosing down, the picture doesn't do it justice.
Pulled ****** out again this AM. Hosed it down and scrubbed it a bit. Much better now. I think I can proceed with teardown without too much difficulty.
Just realized looking at some videos and pictures this isn't a Model A transmission. Not an early one anyway. I don't think they had synchronizers. If somebody knows, please speak up. I got a feeling it's from the mid to late 30's.
Is Ford V8. Give us serial # that is stamped right above the metal plate in last pic...and # of teeth on upper front gear
That would make it 1939 Merc, 28 tooth ge****t IF you haven't missed a digit...clutch linkage seems wrong for that. seial would be like *99A-####*, star stamps marking beginning and end.
Thanks Bruce. There is a little symbol at beginning and end. I was wondering about the linkage, too. Another extra ****** case I have has a short shaft coming out.
Well, with number checked out it would be '39 Merc, and the extension type shaft suggests that it was transplanted into something '40-48. That is a "bottom unloader" case.
Here is the empty case I just treated and washed down. Hope to transfer the good components over if they are fully compatible.
I think case is Lincoln Zephyr, like '36-7. Just realized...Van Pelt lists Lincoln too, now, is an early first year Zephyr, 1936. It is same as Ford '35-6 except for serial #, maybe mount bracket and clutch lever... Your gears will go right in. You will need a shifter top with 3" across 2-3 fork, Fork used on some '39's and then on all later pickups up to about '51. Fork can be purchased in repro from Van Pelt.
I have a set of gears that came with the empty case. Maybe they are LZ also. I'm going to check my fork width.
'36 LZ would have used Ford gears, the ones used in Fords 1936-7 and in many 1939's. These used a fork substantially under 3". The 3" fork is actually 3/10 of a smithereen less the 3", just enough to notice when measuring with a ruler but not nearly enough to confuse it with the other Fork. I posted a bunch of trans part ID information in this old thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/39-ford-transmission-prices.91515/ The 3" fork boxes have the most modern synchro types available in these things, but the gears and synchro used '36-9 are perfectly usable stuff.
Width is 3". The input shaft in the spare parts pile has 16 teeth. The shifter cover is from the case that has the break.
Didn't know you had the lid from the Merc! I'm pretty sure that the '39 Mercs, unlike Fords, all got the late ge****t (that Lincoln got in '38), even though the '39 Merc parts book lists the '36-39 type as a possibility. How do the gear surfaces look...is there any loss of surface, especially on the flanks of the teeth??
Rust and pitting on the gears eats into the surface hardening and will cause the gears to wear quickly. Not really a good trans to use.
The gears in the Mercury case don't have visible pitting as far as I can tell. Only had gunk and light surface rust. The spare parts pile is hit and miss. some look great , others ****ty. Where is best place for a small parts kit ? (bearings gaskets, synchro balls and springs, etc) The shifter tower needs new parts for the detent mechanism also. PS Just checked out the Van Pelt site. Looks like they have everything I need.
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