I might be going out of town to look at buying a car with a flathead. It should be a 59AB. The car has sat for a long time, the engine is mostly complete, including the air cleaner, and the hood is on it, and it's in the southwest. My plans for the car would be to get it running and a reliable driver, without spending a lot of cash. So, I need to be able to decide if the engine has a reasonable chance of being usable with a minor overhaul. What all can I check with the engine in the car, and limited tools, time, etc? I expect the engine will be stuck...I could probably pull the plugs, and look for rust, and possibly pull the oil drain plug and see how much water comes out. I can look for external cracks. What else?
The big thing is cracks. Either between the cylinders and valves and in the pan rails. Everything else can be fixed. It's going to be hard to tell with out removing the heads. Even cracks between the valves and cylinders can be pinned but those pan rail cracks are a kiss of death. If there's water in the oil pan I would probably walk away. By the way there is no such animal as a cheap flathead.
I'm not flatty expert but have had a few and read more. Of course the big killer is cracks in the valve seat area and deck. Barring pulling the heads, which is pretty easy if the nuts aren't stuck, maybe look for a discolored/cleaned off spark plug or combustion chamber if you can see in there, pressure test cooling system, leak down test.. Even cracked blocks are often repaired.
Flat heads scare me. I love them but have yet to have one that wasn't a problem, and then just swapped to a different motor for cost sake. A friend of mine bought a very nice restored 39 deluxe coupe that had been completely restored about 10 years ago, and never really driven, previous owner had tons of cars, once he got it home cleaned out the tank and did all the other stuff needed to get it running again. He got it fired up and it sounded great through the Smithy's. Ran it for about 15 min then shut it off to go get his wallet and phone to take it for a test drive. When he came back out, coolant was running out the driver side exhaust pipe. Pulled the head and had a crack in the block right into the exhaust valve seat area. It looked perfect and sounded perfect, but no good. They are all kind of a **** shoot.
That's what I've been thinking...I wonder what the odds are? Sounds like they're not in my favor. I do have another plan for the car if the engine is junk.
The blocks can get pretty rotten from rust. Not too hard to fix, but something else to be aware of. Obviously, cracks are the biggest issue. But I think it will slow down that Chevy II.
It is a **** shoot. They always "ran when parked". I had written a bunch more but it is just what others have already said. Back to the first sentence, it is a gamble if it is not running. But then I like the gamble. Hind sight, I have lost a few times. Neal
Jim, If you cannot pull it down for an inspection you just check the same things that you would look for on any other engine. Is it stuck if so will it wiggle or is it seriously stuck, does the oil look like a milkshake or is it full of chips, that sore of thing. On a flathead personally I would pull the heads if the owner or you cannot get it fired up. It is nothing to pull the heads and get a look at the decks and the cylinders. Not like pulling a valve in head engine. More bolts perhaps. LOL
A quick look down the carb with a flashlight can also reveal whether the engine was exposed to water as the throttle blades will be rusted and chances are 2 cylinders , one on each bank will be screwed as an intake valve on each bank will be open , a little surface rust on the blades would be normal , anything more than that ,expect big rebuild costs ,if the block is not cracked
Hard to see anything without pulling a head. If you pull the plug you'll see the top of the valve. Unless you got a bore scope , you might be able to peer into the cylinder. Hopefully the carb is still on it and covered up. Maybe no water got down into it. Good luck!
i bought one once that ran but had a slight "hiccup" or miss. fortunately, all it was was a burned intake valve. replaced it and it ran like a clock!
I agree....without pulling the heads, I would be a bit skeptical. I bought 2 flatheads that ''looked'' good, and I was pleased with the purchase...got em' home, and pulled the heads, and OMG...it was ugly and formidable to put it mildly (cracks & m***ive corrosion) and broke 4 studs. If it was me....I'd check under those heads first, if the fellow would allow you the idea. I love flatheads, but gotta be sure of what you are buying....just my 2 cents worth ....good luck!
Yep... Hurst mount and a sbc if the flattie is junk .. one thing you can look for is excessive gunk in the radiator ,(lots of rust in the water jackets can become a problem )and pull plugs but other than having the heads off its a pretty big gamble ...Being in the southwest desert might worry me it was over heated a time or two in its life... Place zero value on the motor and you can only be pleasently surprised after that
I'll probably talk to him and see if he'll agree to me pulling heads before deciding to buy it. Sounds like the only way to get the odds back in my favor.
All good points above. It's best to just price it with the idea of not using the engine and drivetrain. The percentage of a running engine is around 25%. Give or take 10. Good luck.
I agree with Petejoe. Just add the cost of a complete rebuild or replacement engine to your finish project estimate and buy the car if you like it. I would not expect him to allow you to pull the heads. Pulling the plugs and inspecting them should give you a quick access to how the engine was running when he parked it.
All flatheads are cracked until proven otherwise. Price accordingly. I've seen flatheads seemingly run perfectly with 45-60lbs compression in two cylinders due to valve seat cracks.
Hopefully your attraction to a flathead is temporary, and you wake back up before you plunk down hard earned money for the proverbial boat anchor. Follow your history, and put a Chevy in whatever you're going to look at.
If I don't do the FoMoCo flatty, next on the list might be a straight six flathead. Looks bleak. At least with the sixes, they're mostly all running and I can see how good they are.
Just remember the old saying: Once you go flat You never go rat Actually having both, I really enjoy the flathead in spite of it's shortcomings. It's the most fun you can have without breaking the speed limit.
The bad odds are from declining supply and people buying flatheads that have been stored outside and such way north of AZ. Call the odds as somewhat risky but not insane on an engine stored under hood and air cleaner south of snow and rain. If it turns...huge good omen. Partial turn generally from stuck valves, no big deal. No turn, low ball offer. Cracks between valve and cylinder...handle with $$? Tell the guy low bucks and repeat the "They're all cracked, took me 35 engines to get a good one" story if heads on...better offer if you can pull head and look. And remember it's not a Chevy that has to be thrown away if past 030...you have an incredible amount of iron in the cylinders.
If it is a 59AB vintage, it will have head studs. It could take hours and hours just to get one head off. I've owned a lot of them, if it is in the car and turns over and oil looks good...it's probably a runner. Don't let these other guys scare you.
I have two 59AB's out in the shop. One has studs and the other has bolts. The heads came off pretty easy on both of them although if it's been changed to bolts it's easier to remove the heads and it is an indication that someone has already been inside for some reason as I think Henry used studs on them from the factory. Any pics of it and what kind of car is it in???
I agree with Chris, if it spins over it will most likely run.........I have several flathead powered cars in my stable and love them, they quite durable and torquey, the one in my '30 coupe is a '41 59A and appears to never have been overhauled and it just completed a 130 mile reliability run with 8 psi of oil pressure.
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