I am thinking about building, a 2 seated coupe street altered. 31 to 34 ford. I would like a molly tube chassis. with a coupe body. Who would you guys recommend? This will be like a street driven fuel altered. hope this comes thru. Something like this. I am in Tennessee. So someone in the area would be great. I would like a complete roller less engine and trans. But have it complete, with body, brakes, fuel system, wiring ETC... Then I can drop in the engine & trans I want. Or it anyone knows of a car already built for sale. I might be interested in that also. Thanks BAD A
Not sure on budget. I am looking to get an idea of cost. That's why I ask the ???? on here. I can buy altered,s on several sites, from $7,500 rolling to $25,000 turn key.
'Altereds' are driven from the middle with tranny between the drivers' legs, your pics are of TopSportsman/promod type tube chassis with driver on the left. I don't think you'll get one of those chassis for 25K. Last one I worked on like that was 'Fatso' a promod '37 Coupe with an EPD headed 632, Lenco drive trans and MW modular rear - need a budget of over 150K to even think about getting started. Unlike the car in the video, you could actually drive Fatso - couldn't downshift, had to come to complete stop to go back into 1st gear. They sent me pics of it being driven down the Boardwalk in Ocean City. I think its being raced in TopSportsman.
Not being from Tn, I dont know the DMV laws about such vehicles ability to be street driven. I know here in Ca. that weird builds without a manuf. title can take years to get a title without having to add all the current safety and smog requirements took this guy 3 years to get it legal $25g is a nice deposit
I'm doing one right now. i wish 25 grand would do it. if you do get it for 25 grand remember you get what you pay for. its simple economics.
I suggest calling Cornfield Customs over in Loveland, Ohio. Here is his website: http://cornfield-customs.com/ He is a HAMB member and a master fabricator.
Currently I'm building this steel Bantam coupe for myself . Used 2" by 3" rect. tubing for the frame because it's easier.
look at my thread rebuilding after the crash. it will give you a idea whats involved with building a chassis like that.
molly is for race cars... mild steel is better,, my altered a mild, molly is too brittle for long time street use .. i dont need to go faster then 8.50 on the street
Wrong!!!! If done correctly---right diameter and wall thickness--- there is nothing wrong with 4130 in any application. Of course if you build a frame out of .058" moly and run it through chuck holes etc you may have issues, especially if it is built in pure race car style. Roo
Last estimate I got on a moly altered chassis was 8k. Not a roller. Just the chassis This is what I built. Street leagal (registered in GA), seats 2, certed to 8.50, runs mid 9's with 550 hp small block and foot brake. A bit heavy cause the car was built to handle any street conditions and made from mild steel so it was easy to modify or fix if needed Car is for sale minus the engine for $10K. It's a bit tight and a brutal....but it certianly gets looks on the street. And at the track.......it's the only car in Comp running a 9.5 index with a license plate. Last year at the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green, I bolted on the headlights after Fri qualifying and drove it to the Holday Inn for the cruise in..... I just bought a Woody Gilmore jr fuel chassis, so this one is up for sale. Gonna miss it though. It sure is fun not to have to go to the track to enjoy it. Just hop in and go...