If you made your own torque rods for use with '36 rear radius rods, what diameter and tube thickness did you use? DOM? What size heim joint and how has it performed?
I would use 1" x .1875 round and use a 3/4 heim or rod end. You may have to ream it a little bit to cut the threads.
A 3/4 heim joint has a 3/4-16 fine thread shank. If you use 1" DOM tubing, a 5/32" wall, which is a common size, it will have 11/16" ID which is the correct hole size for a 3/4-16 thread. If you have a lathe then a heavier wall isn't a problem to bore out, but if not then the 5/32 wall makes life simpler for the threading.
No need for heims, make double shear tabs with spade mount, or a clevis on a spade. It's under tension when the most force is applied, diameter is more important then wall thickness. Many run 35-36 bones without one, do you need it? How much power?
You probably don't need anything extra if you mount the rods low. The torque they see diminishes a lot as the rod are lowered. I put a set under a 32 running a 383 dual quad and a 350 trans. He hammered it all the time no problems with the rear set up. Just 36 bones. Here is a goofy fact. If the rods were so low they could somehow be at pavement heigth, they would see only axial loads and no bending. You could put heims at both ends. Can't do it but you see the trend. My friends are mounted so the top of the rear end mounting tabs are a bit below the bottom of the tubes. This also lowers the car, solves the interference problem with the frame. and keeps from cutting the rear crossmember for lowering. I am ready for people to dissagree and say I'm nuts. Been a mechanical design enginneer for a long time.
^add to that their shape. Oval tube is pretty hard to bend. I run .25 wall square on the lowers on my jeep with the corner down and have landed the 5400lb tank on rocks without a hint of bend.
This is perfect input! Thank you everyone!! That's a nice looking workout there Dentisaurus. Which yoke did you use? I have a couple of Model A front wishbones which I had planned to graft the yoke from one to the 36 bones but my brother says pre33 are too soft. The rethink was a heim and no mod to the 36 bones at the front end then weld a tab to one bone and connect a torque rod to the rear end housing with a heim at that end too. This going under a 33 ford coupe 117harv with a winters QC behind a Buick 364 nailhead and M20 4 speed. Not sure if hp yet but no more than 400 I'm thinking and closer to 300 in the short term.
Yes, I would put one on. I have a few pics in my massive photo stash, will try and dig some up and post them.
117harv, We ended up going to ladder bars on the ravens roadster which had 35-36 bones that we bridged to reinforce them, because even with the 7.00x16 bias ply truck tires we were making them into a rainbow on launch. Light 27T and about 400 HP. That said guys have been running split radius rods open drive and no torque bar for decades with zero to minimal problems. I would run one if I was building one for myself but I know what kind of abuse my vehicles get. I think for the average cruiser it is a non issue.
It's a model A yoke, early version, it looks like the 32-34 but is has an arc instead of being flat like the 32-34.
Any issues with it as that's the same as what I was planning to use until my brother declared Model A yokes were malleable iron castings and not suitable?
There several members here running this set up with no problems. The yoke as well as all early Ford suspension parts are forged steel, not cast. It is also VERY good steel, Henry came up with a great recipe.
Just on the outer end of this subject, does someone make a 'socket' receiver for the ball end of the stock wishbone? (a 'weld-on', or flanged 'bolt-on'?) I'd blacksmith one, but it's hard to form .187" sheet into a 'cup!'
Back in the day (1965) I ran '35/'36 radius rods, shortened to approx. half the length of stock and pivoted them off the frame rails, running behind a "built" 6-carbed 324 Olds, Hydro, 8"pie-crusts. They never bent. However, there was a downside to this setup - the rear axle housing was an unforgiving antisway bar! BTW, the '35/'36 radius rods are the stoutest of the '28 to '48 rods.
Good news 117harv... I'll be firing up the grinder tomorrow. Did you internally sleeve the joint and plug weld? What thickness sleeve?
On a mother note, I have the original shackle pivot stuck in one of the bones Any alternatives to heat for getting that thing out without damage to the bones?
None of that is my work, just pics pulled from here. Make slugs, tig them into the yoke and then weld all three together. Cut the shackles off, pound the bolt out and then run a 3/4 inch drill bit through, the sleeve will come loose and spin.
Thanks. I used the remains of the '30 wishbone I split for the front Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok, really lame question...I received one of these wishbone ball cap kits with purchase of a Tardel "K-member". I'm using a '32 wishbone on '31 frame with the K-member to capture the ball end. I can't for the life of me figure out exactly how the ball cap pieces assemble relative to the "shelf" of the K-member. I'm assuming the ball of the wishbone ultimately winds up below the shelf? The 2 halves of the clam shell are quite different (one black/other galv - holes different size also).... which one goes on top, etc...? Thanks for any help! jgiles
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