Technical Brake Pressure Switch?

Hello
I converted from a single bowl master cylinder to a dual master cylinder, Is there a way I can use my stock pressure switch with the new master cylinder?
Thanks

 

put a 't' in one of the lines right by the master cylinder.
but you would have the brake lights activate much sooner if you have a mechanical switch. you can adjust it so to have the brake lights come on with the slightest movement of the brake pedal. this is my plan to do to my 41 cad if it doesn't sell soon.

 

OEM cars that had dual master with pressure switch, had to have two pressure switches. That was FED requirement to have brake lights on each circuit.

You are better off to run a mechanical switch

 

Pressure switches ****! But....... if you have to have one, you can do as above and mount it the line. But..... seriously..... they really do ****.

 

I have one on the proportioning valve on my Ford, so far so good and I ran them for years. I've had more of the ones on the brake pedal go bad and only 1 hydraulic fail on all the '64 Fords I had.

 

To keep texters from rear-ending you..

 

When their head is consumed by the phone, it won't help you!

 

Looks like I will be going with the speedway mechanical switch. One question I have is when the lever is pushed in are the brake lights one or when pressure is let off the switch the lights come on?
Thanks

 

I used one from Ron Francis...Mounts behind the brake arm and is normally closed and opens when the plunger is pushed in when the retracted brake pedal arm or linkage hits it. Fully waterproof for under car external mounted if needed.

 

I have hanging pedals so when I press the pedal the switch should be open?
Thanks

 

The switch would be mounted on the back side of the pedal arm with the plunger pushed against the arm thus keeping the switch contacts open.When you depress the brake pedal the switch plunger will extend outward and the switch will close turning the lights on.

 

Nothing wrong with a pressure switch... Except the quality level of most switches today. The cure is to hit a VW shop and pick up a Bosch hydraulic switch for any year BUG. Got the good BOSCH branded stuff and it'll last longer than you. Double bonus is that it trips at a lower pressure value, so you brake lights come on quicker.

 

I've heard that Harley Davison has them figured out.....they work at very low pressure, and are reliable.

 

I've not used one yet, but I have been told the same thing.

 

If your system is properly bled, it does not matter where a pressure switch is. The pressure in a hydraulic system is equal at any measured point, and pressure changes are instantaneous, an simultaneous.

 

Not totally true....Depends on the tube/pipe material. With flexible hose, there is always some expansion of the diameter when under pressure. This will cause a greater delay time in building up pressure and taking pressure off when the length of the tube is very long. But, with small bore (relatively inflexible) stainless steel tube, there will be practically no swell of the diameter and the pressure will go on/off almost digitally - even at great lengths - to the extent that the hydraulic fluid is incompressible.

 

Mechanical. Watson's Street Works. Stainless, no problems. Do you want to bleed your brakes for a switch ?

 

I just answered the same thing on a Fairlane Thread.

Simply add a junction block, with one port for the brake line, and one port for the switch.
Junction block was a few bucks @ Autozone!

It's real easy, and contrary to what some others may think, it works great!
I've got well over 1k miles on my Fairlane with no issues.