Hot Rods Runaway axle......what happened?

till you snap the nubin off the axle from axle play , I went thru several sets of c clips before going to a Ford rear ,

as for the OP for axles you can go Moser , but IIWM would use Strange engineering and use Timken bearings as I heard some bad things about Moser lately ( mostly screw ups on there end and blaming the customer ) .

 

I use a bearing heater to install all of the ones I do. No wear pressing them on, never had a failure.

And Stimpy, twice, I have had Moser blame me for measurement screw ups. Fortunately when you send them the printed narrowing sheet with ALL measurements, it's hard for them to defend themselves.

 

For years I tac welded the retainer ring, but on my roadster I heated the retainer ring and dropped it on,-so far no problems (13,000 miles), but after reading this, I will go back to the tac weld. Then you have NO worry. Bob

 

A customer of mine had a '63.5 Galazie, I recommended he replace both rear axle bearings due to wear (noise)
He elected to do them himself, had them removed but took the new ones home to install them himself.
He pounded them both on with a length of Galvanized pipe, then the same with the retaining rings.
Spit the drivers side axle out 2 weeks later.

Any fool can tell you NOT to pound bearings/rings on. ...and so they designed presses.

 

What about heating the rings? I've done it but I am not sure if that's a good idea.

 

How about drilling small diameter hole (or two) in 'wedding ring', tapping for a set screw, a small corresponding divot in the axle, loc***e the set screw? Can't be any more of a stress riser than a spot weld......can it?

Ray

 

mark williams axles not a fan of moser. strange is also good but mark williams is a cut above.

 

I have always heated the retainer rings to a cherry red then dropped them in place. No pounding at all. I have never had an axle come out yet. I read years ago, maybe in a Shop manual, that heating was the only way to go. A bearing heater would also be better along with freezing the axle. Shrink the axle, expand the ring, when the temps equalize, it there to stay.

 

X2

 

I have always preferred to use a bearing heater but have had luck heating them in the oven too.

I have had old ford axles that were just a few tenths undersize before, I don't know if it was from damage over the years or they came that way. But when I Miced them and they were undersize I just decided not to run them. I also had some brand new axles from a well known manufacturer that I have used over the years that were undersized when I got them. I sent them back and they replaced them no questions asked so I have to guess that they can come that way from time to time. I see no reason to believe that a bearing could also be off just enough that when it gets enough heat in it from running down the road that it will loosen up too much and be a problem.

I try to always run a mic on an axle before I stick a bearing on it. Maybe I am too **** but I would rather chuck and axle as find out about 40 miles the other side of Pig Snarf that it was a mistake to run it.

 

I spoke with P&J's this morning and they referred me to John's Industries, who supplies they're 9" axle housings.
I found that they are based on a Torino style big bearing housing. I was given a National part # 88128RA bearing.
I then called Strange Engineering, they gave me the part #A1020 for my application.
BTW,Strange strongly suggested not to tack weld the ring to the axle and get them pressed on properly.
Thanks for everyone's input, I'll check my wheels for run out too as suggested.

 

That National number 88128RA comes with what appears to be the "good" retaining ring.

 

Is there any kind of inspection method without dis***embly, some kind of runout or dial indicator measurement? Or is that the crux of the problem. Had the bearings replaced in the Ford some years ago, the mechanic said they "were real bad". At least this was before the market was flooded with recycled beer can bearings.