I was remounting my freshly RFV balanced wheels and tires last night, and being the **** *** that I am, insisted on one extra turn on the last lug nut on the 40 ford rear. Stripped stud. What is the best method for removing the nut? Replacing the stud? Thanks, Rich
Just went thru this on the Chrysler; seems that the new crop of tire jockeys never heard of left hand threads - had two stripped lugs and one *almost* gone. To get the nut off is usually pretty easy - remove the other four nuts and use the wheel as a lever to put force on the stripped nut while you're backing it off my hand. The nut will eventually catch some threads and back off. As for replacing the stud... the hard part is getting the drum off - you'll need a drum puller for that. Never been able to get one off without the puller. Once you've pulled the drum, I just beat the damned thing out with a hammer. It's better to use a hydraulic press, tho - both to pop the lug out and press the fresh one in. Make sure the drum is properly supported so that you don't disort it! Finally - it's absolutely essential you get the correct torque on the axle nut when you get it all back together - lots of guys go light on the axle nut, and this is how you end up breaking axle shaft keys! I forget the correct torque spec - think it's at least 180 ft-lbs. I used to use a 6' bar to go just a little beyond 180 to be *sure* stuff stayed where it was supposed to.
What type of brake drum do you have, is it the one with the hub on the outside? They have the studs riveted in place and if they get loose they will just keep spinning. It happened to me and had to cut the stud and bolt with a grinder.
40 studs have a flat side to the head and are held from rotating by that. You'll need to order from an Antique Ford supplier. I don't think Dorman will make one. Press it in, and make sure to line up the flat. I don't think 40's are swedged on the outside.
Thanks guys, I just need some info to get started. The drum should pop off OK, I just ***embled the whole axle. I have a spare drum, I might pop one of the studs from it. Rich
Ford used a special lug bolt that was pressed during manufacture in a manner that effectively locks the drum to the hub. The lug bolt is expanded at the base and functions as a rivet. The proper way to remove a broken lug bolt is to drill the head off. Use a drift to drive the lug bolt out from behind. If you press or drive the lug bolt out from the front you run the real risk of damaging the hub. This is because the rivet lip will enlarge the hole in the hub as it is driven through. Most of the old Ford parts houses, to include the one owned by HAMBer **** Sprado sell replacement lug bolts. If you need to replace a complete drum you will need to remove and replace all 5 lug bolts in the process. The replacement lug bolts do not have the shoulder and your new drum will be held in place by the wheel. At one time you could get a cutter (like a hole saw without the pilot drill) that went over the lug bolt and removed the lip formed during manufacture. With all five of the lip removed the drum will come off leaving serviceable lug bolts. At one time every automotive mechanic had one in his tool box. But they are almost impossible to find now. So plan on replacing your lug bolts when you change out 39-48 Ford brake drums.
Go to www.goodtool-online.com and search for "ST-500". This is a 1/2" swedge cutting tool that will cut the "rivet swedge" off your Ford wheel studs withiout damaging your drums or hubs. Should be about $50.00 plus shipping.
This isn't going to strip that out? I always have bad luck torquing down stuff like this. Right now one of my axle nuts barely wants to thread back on to the axle shaft...
As was mentioned previously, the stud needs to be cut or drilled to remove without messing up the hub. If you're going to put any pressure on the stud to get it out, make sure you support the hub/drum from behind or it's going to be junk. When installing the new stud, it's supposed to be swedged over the drum surface to hold it in place. But I've yet to find a replacement stud from any parts house with a shoulder that's long enough to do this. So good luck. Be sure to post an update.
I just removed a drum from a front hub. I went to Graingers and bought a 11/16" hole saw part #4XG67 for $6.12. I already had the arbor to drive it. Took the drill outa' the arbor. The I.D. of the saw fits right over the 1/2" stud. Put it in a drill press and it perfectly cut the swedged part of the lug nut stud to release the drum. Use plenty of cutting oil. I don't see why this wouldn't work for stud removal. Especially for one stud replacement. The holes cut in the drum are large, but because the drum pilots off the hub center what difference does it make?
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