I just started on a new chassis for my sedan. Right now the car has a 114" wheelbase and rides only 5" off the ground. I want to give it more of a hot rod look so I'm shortening the wheelbase to 106" and losing the 17" Z in the back. I will probably Z it only a foot or so to actually give the car a rake instead of sitting pool table flat. I'm also losing the 3" Z up front in favor of a sweep. Instead of a tubular front cross member and a spring perch I'm going to use a stock Model A crossmember. I plan on the chassis stopping at said cross member ala Doane Spencer/Rolling Bones setup and retaining the spring behind the axle setup I'm already running. Last night I pinched the 2X3 .125 rails to taper from the body width to the front cross member width. Then I made a .25" pie cut on top of the rails, behind the pinch which raised the front of the frame 3" off the ground which is pretty much what I wanted. Here's what I'm not sure of, do I make another pie cut on the bottom of the frame rails behind the cross member and bring that area down so the end of the rails where the cross member sits are parallel with the main, unswept rails? Or do you just leave it and not have to tip your cross member back so far to build in some caster? Or am I already in over my head and should probably scrap the whole project? Thanks, Scott
Keep with what you're doing Scott, Since you plan on running with a rake instead of level, the differance in the sweep will be compansated. Same set-up I ran on my 36 Dodge roadster.
Well I've had fun with it for three years and I'd like to change it up a bit and make it more drivable. Troy, are you saying leave it and don't do the second pie cut? Thanks, the bike is a 750 Triumph from Atom Bomb Custom in VA.
I've see several that have the spring mount at an angle like that and I don't like it, it's just not a natural movement for the spring when it's all mounted up. I'd make the front cross member flat or 0˚ at ride level. Put the spring at 0˚ and adjust the mount to the bones to compensate for your 7˚-12˚ for the laid back axle so it'll track correctly.
I'm ordering some 700 16'a for the rear before the trip to Sins of Steel next month. Same thing as on the back of the roadster. They're pretty tall.
Thanks, I just did a build thread on it recently. Its in my "threads started by" section. I'm typing from my phone and have no idea how to post a link.
No help here, just encouragement. I'm sure you'll nail it when it's done. I love all your shit. Will we be seeing you at billetproof this weekend?
Correct...I guess the question is, Scott, how much rake to plan to run? My setup was 108" wb, 3" sweep with 6" of rack and the caster was within spec.
Since you are not going to run frame horns, you may be able to get away without the the second pie cut; but I think it would look better with it. The crossmember would be mounted in a better relationship to the rails and it may help to alleviate some of the "broken" look of a swept frame. Just my opinion.
What about leveling the end of the frame rails with a second pie cut. Then taking a little bit of material off the back of the cross member so I can tip it back inside the rails to build in some caster? Probably 6-8" higher at the rear of the frame as far as rake goes. Also, I don't want the front so low that I have to run the tie rod out fron like I'm currently doing on the sedan. I know figuring that out is quite a ways down the road but that's something I want to avoid.
I just went thru this and it can get a bit mind bogging Set your frame at ride height, or at least the intended rake. That's going to put the front swept part closer to level Set your crossmember according to your spring perch arrangement. * If its spring on top with solid perch set it at 7*ish * if it has swivel perches (sot, or sbh) set CM at what looks and fits best. Pie cut it if think it looks better Both Spencer and bones use a stock 32-36 axle. If your going Spencer, there's a z at the front just before the radiator for the crossmember. Again depens on the spring arangement. You can put everting level, flat, or, 7*. That z can be flat w 7* crossmember or have 7* in the z and crossmember flush with tube. If you use batwings and spring behind with hairpins you sort of get the swivel perch because it bolts on. rolling bones do it a bit different with a big notch just before the radiator. That style crossmember is different also. That I can't really tell you much about other than swivel perches bolted thru on the wishbones makes that set easier.
why dont you curve the front frame horns so they look like a 32 frame?, then just positon the front crossmember in there so it has the correct 7 degrees? JEFF
Bring it back level. If you use a stock or aftermarket crossmember they have 5-7deg built into them so that when you set your axle at castor the spring won't bind. If you come back about 8" from the rearmost side rivet of the front crossmember and do your 2nd pie cut you'll have about 3.25" drop built into the frame (thats assuming you made the 1st cut near the firewall. I think this pic show one rail with that cut and the other uncut. Hope this helped. One thing i'd do is toss that 2X3 stuff and get an old model 'a' frame - theres bunches of them out there. They are a whole lot of work to get right but there ain't nothin better. Good luck, oj
I would pie cut the front cross member cause that's what a true sweep is... right now is more of an erection than a sweep aka the bleed sweep looks good so far!
I like how This chassis is looking, The sedan will look great with a rake!! with the sweep are you going to mount the front suspension in the origioinal way or are you to go with a spring behind style?, just curious
i actually like it how it sits now. Seen how many toys you have already i suggest you build this frame for something else.....or keep the current cdan set up for another body. Both styles have their charm. the Trump is sweet btw.
Here is a box tube chassis I am building (in Australia) I tapered the tube and welded the cross member at the right angle then added repo frame horns. 4" sweep with a 12" rear kick up