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So I swept my fame, now what?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lucky77, May 19, 2011.

  1. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    I just started on a new chassis for my sedan. Right now the car has a 114" wheelbase and rides only 5" off the ground. I want to give it more of a hot rod look so I'm shortening the wheelbase to 106" and losing the 17" Z in the back. I will probably Z it only a foot or so to actually give the car a rake instead of sitting pool table flat.

    I'm also losing the 3" Z up front in favor of a sweep. Instead of a tubular front cross member and a spring perch I'm going to use a stock Model A crossmember. I plan on the chassis stopping at said cross member ala Doane Spencer/Rolling Bones setup and retaining the spring behind the axle setup I'm already running.

    Last night I pinched the 2X3 .125 rails to taper from the body width to the front cross member width. Then I made a .25" pie cut on top of the rails, behind the pinch which raised the front of the frame 3" off the ground which is pretty much what I wanted.

    Here's what I'm not sure of, do I make another pie cut on the bottom of the frame rails behind the cross member and bring that area down so the end of the rails where the cross member sits are parallel with the main, unswept rails? Or do you just leave it and not have to tip your cross member back so far to build in some caster? Or am I already in over my head and should probably scrap the whole project?:D

    Thanks, Scott
     

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  2. Old Gold
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 437

    Old Gold
    Member

    Keep with what you're doing Scott, Since you plan on running with a rake instead of level, the differance in the sweep will be compansated. Same set-up I ran on my 36 Dodge roadster.
     
  3. BOWTIE BROWN
    Joined: Mar 30, 2010
    Posts: 3,251

    BOWTIE BROWN
    Member

    Man you got to many toys , what is that bobber in the pix. SWEEEET.
     
  4. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,857

    propwash
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    thank you for wanting to take it off of the floor - nothing that sits like that looks like a hot rod
     
  5. Old Gold
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 437

    Old Gold
    Member

    And while you're at it.......put some taller tires out back!:rolleyes:
     
  6. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    Well I've had fun with it for three years and I'd like to change it up a bit and make it more drivable. Troy, are you saying leave it and don't do the second pie cut? Thanks, the bike is a 750 Triumph from Atom Bomb Custom in VA.
     
  7. Old Gold
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 437

    Old Gold
    Member

    yes.....dont do the second pie cut.....that would bring you back to level.
     
  8. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,345

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That Roadster in the background sure looks nice, is there a build thread on it?
     
  9. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,053

    chaddilac
    Member

    I've see several that have the spring mount at an angle like that and I don't like it, it's just not a natural movement for the spring when it's all mounted up. I'd make the front cross member flat or 0˚ at ride level. Put the spring at 0˚ and adjust the mount to the bones to compensate for your 7˚-12˚ for the laid back axle so it'll track correctly.
     
  10. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,053

    chaddilac
    Member

    That would only level the crossmember not the whole frame.
     
  11. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    I'm ordering some 700 16'a for the rear before the trip to Sins of Steel next month. Same thing as on the back of the roadster. They're pretty tall.
     
  12. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    Thanks, I just did a build thread on it recently. Its in my "threads started by" section. I'm typing from my phone and have no idea how to post a link.
     
  13. No help here, just encouragement. I'm sure you'll nail it when it's done. I love all your shit.

    Will we be seeing you at billetproof this weekend?
     
  14. Old Gold
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 437

    Old Gold
    Member

    Correct...I guess the question is, Scott, how much rake to plan to run? My setup was 108" wb, 3" sweep with 6" of rack and the caster was within spec.
     
  15. Since you are not going to run frame horns, you may be able to get away without the
    the second pie cut; but I think it would look better with it. The crossmember would be
    mounted in a better relationship to the rails and it may help to alleviate some of the
    "broken" look of a swept frame. Just my opinion.
     
  16. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    Thanks Dave, I'm rather fond of your collection as well. As far Billetproof goes.......not a chance.
     
  17. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    What about leveling the end of the frame rails with a second pie cut. Then taking a little bit of material off the back of the cross member so I can tip it back inside the rails to build in some caster? Probably 6-8" higher at the rear of the frame as far as rake goes.

    Also, I don't want the front so low that I have to run the tie rod out fron like I'm currently doing on the sedan. I know figuring that out is quite a ways down the road but that's something I want to avoid.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2011
  18. I just went thru this and it can get a bit mind bogging

    Set your frame at ride height, or at least the intended rake.
    That's going to put the front swept part closer to level
    Set your crossmember according to your spring perch arrangement.
    * If its spring on top with solid perch set it at 7*ish
    * if it has swivel perches (sot, or sbh) set CM at what looks and fits best.
    Pie cut it if think it looks better


    Both Spencer and bones use a stock 32-36 axle.

    If your going Spencer, there's a z at the front just before the radiator for the crossmember. Again depens on the spring arangement. You can put everting level, flat, or, 7*. That z can be flat w 7* crossmember or have 7* in the z and crossmember flush with tube.
    If you use batwings and spring behind with hairpins you sort of get the swivel perch because it bolts on.
    rolling bones do it a bit different with a big notch just before the radiator. That style crossmember is different also. That I can't really tell you much about other than swivel perches bolted thru on the wishbones makes that set easier.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2011
  19. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,191

    titus
    Member

    why dont you curve the front frame horns so they look like a 32 frame?, then just positon the front crossmember in there so it has the correct 7 degrees?

    JEFF
     
  20. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,575

    oj
    Member

    Bring it back level. If you use a stock or aftermarket crossmember they have 5-7deg built into them so that when you set your axle at castor the spring won't bind. If you come back about 8" from the rearmost side rivet of the front crossmember and do your 2nd pie cut you'll have about 3.25" drop built into the frame (thats assuming you made the 1st cut near the firewall.
    I think this pic show one rail with that cut and the other uncut.
    Hope this helped. One thing i'd do is toss that 2X3 stuff and get an old model 'a' frame - theres bunches of them out there. They are a whole lot of work to get right but there ain't nothin better.
    Good luck, oj
     

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  21. Evel
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 9,044

    Evel
    Member
    1. 60s Show Rods

    I would pie cut the front cross member cause that's what a true sweep is... right now is more of an erection than a sweep aka the bleed sweep :) looks good so far!
     
  22. Scott it will look Bitchin and can't wait to see it a Sins of Steel next month.
     
  23. I like how This chassis is looking, The sedan will look great with a rake!! with the sweep are you going to mount the front suspension in the origioinal way or are you to go with a spring behind style?, just curious
     
  24. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    i actually like it how it sits now. Seen how many toys you have already i suggest you build this frame for something else.....or keep the current cdan set up for another body.
    Both styles have their charm.
    the Trump is sweet btw.
     
  25. Vhodoo
    Joined: Mar 27, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Vhodoo

    [​IMG]

    Here is a box tube chassis I am building (in Australia) I tapered the tube and welded the cross member at the right angle then added repo frame horns. 4" sweep with a 12" rear kick up
     

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