Technical Need some help on Dodge 440 engine balancing please

I remembered Direct Connection made a kit for this, it took me a while to find the part number.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120241/10002/-1

 

Thanks guys - really do appreciate all the help.

What a great forum.

 

I have a 70 440 that has the wide rod (six pack as they say) and the stock balancers always cracked in the keyway, making the engine sound like it had a knock. Up till lately you either had to get the motor balanced if you went to another style balancer, and there was even a cast crank balancer that had the offset wedge on the balancer so it looked like the right one.
Now, you can but from Summit or Jegs or who ever, a balancer that is tailorable to what ever set up you need, comes with bolt in weights that will get it close enough that unless something else starts a imbalance all will be cool. NOT SFI but as I don't drag race the car it was just right. Now, the transmission probably needs a weight but I'll check on that.
honestly, the right thing to do is send me the Jensen, especially if it's a ugly old CV8 though I imagine it's a InterceptorI think the balancer with weights is less than a hunnert dollars

 

I bought a torque converter weigh package that there's a link to a post or two up, I may even have the weight package for the 440 cast crank to be welded on your existing converter. Bear in mind if the 440 that was in the Jensen had the HP rods, the torque converter may also have weights on it but in the wrong location.

 

Did you keep the old engine?

 

Yeah, good question.

As mentioned, the balancer issue, rubbing, may be from the outer ring having shifted...but, that should have been apparent when it got in the lathe for 'repair'......should have been...
For this I would source another cast-crank balancer.

The TC could be fixed in situ but you first must know what weight is needed. MaMopar used weights from 20gm to 120gm and sometimes in pairs. I have a chart from TSR Racing (and today I can't find it on their web site) showing the 'what' and 'where' but it is not currently in a doc file so can't post it today.

.

 

there is also a flex plate that has a half moon cut in it that eliminates the need to weld the weights on the convertor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-10237

 

I

I have a chart that lists the weights by application, but I am not home right now. If no one posts by tomorrow am, I'll post it. The kit I posted above includes wieghts for all the different combos and instructions.

 

Straight from Mother. Direct Connection Bulletin #7

 

make sure they or you do not use a impact on the flex plate to crank bolts. use torque wrench or it will crack the flexplate if it is to tight. don't ask but I usually learn the hard way. This I did twice

 

OK
Professional Products makes a "Thin" damper that matches the specs of your original as far as pullys etc BUT has bolt in weights on the BACK of the damper so it comes with weight for a cast crank 44o--that end problem is SOLVED
On the other end don't fool with welding on a converter--simply but a B&M flexplate from Summit that is made for cast crank 440--it has weight out of one area as opposed to weight added on other side--simple clean and perfect answer to both ends--now if you simply dont want to pull trans then Google chrysler specs on amount of weight ( it is two pieces about size of piece of dentene gum) and weld then on either side of converter drain plug --which is correct position but be careful not too much weld penetration or you will poke hole in converter
There ya go!

 

I have used the B&M flex plate in the past. It works well and takes care of the problem at the trans.

 

Thanks for the tips.

Car is with Art Carr now, engine builder saying the right things but it following up.

Have a badly leaking rear main seal as well I have discovered.

Ugh.

 

I have welded a weight on the convertor drain plug on A motors and B and Rb Motors . Thats where the weights normally are on each side of the drain plug , by welding on the plug you eliminate the chance of welding something on the converter itself. The balancer was probably Ok ,the front cover was differant as why it rubbed.