So a guy in the list is selling a Y block on the list. I was thinking of swapping rhat into my jailbar because the fe doesn't clear rhe steering shaft. I cannot for my life figure out how to route the steering around the head, not in a way that seems like I could still have it on a semi stock frame. I saw a t bird at kittys yesterday with a Y block in it. It didn't appear to be any smaller, of course it was in a t bird not a pickup truck. I would imagine there smaller just because they aren't big cube engines. I hope they are but if not it looks like I'm going to be plopping a 302 and a t5 into it. Pic of t bird motor: Thanks in advance. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
A y-block is smaller dimensionally and weight-wise than an FE which is the basis for the Ford big block. As with all Fords after Flatheads, they are a bit longer than a sbc and a y-block is heavier than the 302. The y-block came in '54-'64 trucks if that helps.
Well this may be nitpicking, but the FE blocks ARE Y BLOCKS. But anyways, check with the Y block experts online. They probably have the measurements. The Lincoln Y blocks are probably closer to the FE size than the Ford Y's are.
Awesome thanks guys. I'm probably going to a y block then. Thanks Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The exhaust manifolds on the Y block go up, so it might have more room around the steering than the FE.
And if you use the truck single exhaust setup, with the crossover in front of the engine up top, there is a whole lotta room
The T-bird engine could be about an inch shorter if you take out the ring behind the water pump. To the best of my knowledge, only they used this spacer. Please correct me if I am wrong.
That's what I said to my father, it's a shorter block but the water pump is huge so it doesn't seem to be any shorter. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
The bird's used the spacer and a different harmonic balancer, mostly to clear the front crossmember and lower the engine under the hood. The spacer results in less effective cooling, and the fix is to remove the spacer, then space the water pump pulley out. It's nominally 1". If you go with the upswept manifolds, try to find the late model flat top ones, they flow better. That said, it's not that tough to put an FE in an early bird, so you won't gain much except the manifold. The trucks used ram horns, but they won't clear side engine mounts. Trucks used a front mount, and ears on the bellhousing. Very similar to a 55-56 sbc and powerglide.
Lol I'm not look to put a fe in a t bird, I'm looking to put it in a 47 ford truck. thanks anyway. That does help me with some oft the other things though. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
And alot cheaper probably. But I know that a 302 will fit in my truck. I want to keep the truck nostalgic though. And y blocks are cool. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I know you're not trying to put it in a bird. My point is, the FE isn't much bigger. Go look at some original Y block trucks. The front mount and Rams horns might help. But, then you either run a Fordo, or the granny low truck Trans, or spring for an adapter for a C-4. Or have Mummert sell you a truck bell for a T-5. Now the 302 is way cheaper. I'm running two stoker Y blocks, I've got the receipts to prove it.
There is a HAMB member that sells adapter plates to fit y-block valve covers on an SBF,if you want to have some folks scratching their heads.
Oh ok, I've decided to at least try and make the fe fit, if not looks like I'm going to a 302. I just don't like the low power numbers for a y block although a 302 isn't much better.
FE are the Fords big block an lot bigger then what is refered to as a Y. In some cases,its missunderstanding. Y-block Ford/272/292/312 from bellhousing bolt up to front of water pump nose is 29in. SBC Chevy with short waterpump " " " " " " " " " " " " 28in. = not a big deal I'd say The above size includs the nose shaft of water pumps that is left off most size charts. To some guys that just don't understand the Ford has the block casting made/designed so the cranlshafe is up in side the block so there is a lot of main bearing support using a short hight lower oilpan,vs the chevy SBC crank hangs 1/2 way out of the block casting= makes some think they see a bigger taller engine,but the're very close to the same hight too. The Ford casting is a stronger casting an is by the extra casting a few more lbs. then SBC. Hope that clears up some old wifetails that have been p***ed around for some time. I raced both engines an I won with both engines,the SBC cost me less $ in the 1970/80s to make HP,but before that in the 50s/early 60s the Y-block kicked ***. As for power,pick a Apirl 2016 Hot Rod mag, has some stuff about Y-block,above my piggy bank,but fun read.
Below is a very useful engine spec table comparing various makes and sizes of engines. It does not look like the y-block is on the list but it's still a good reference. http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html
Thank you for that chart. I bring good news! So today I was doing stuff to my truck and noticed the motor looks like is a little off. I knew that the motor was not 100% straight in the truck but I never noticed that the motor is actually about an inch closer to the drivers frame rail than the p***enger. all I think I need is a about 1/2 an inch to clear the steering shaft and that's it. So all is looking well for now. Now all I really need to worry about getting a rear sump pan for it, and see about getting pedals that mount to the firewall. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are you planning on putting the y-block in just the way you find it or do you plan on rebuilding it? A y-block can put out close to 500 HP are you looking for more than that?
In the Amsoil engine masters challenge Jon Kaase had a Y-block that put out 584hp @5500 rpm and 596 lb ft @4600 rpm. That might be enough for a pickup.
Yes I think that would be sufficient and I would be rebuilding it. 584 hp should to me like it's kinda pushing the limitations of the motor, and is that motor even streetable? I plan on driving my truck on the streets mostly and racing it every now and then. A almost 600 hp y block in a 2900 lbs truck probably isn't gonna be a good driver. I know fe's can make about 600 streetable horsepower and my motor is probably one of the cleanest ones on the planet since it was built in 1968 rebuilt shortly after and never ran since. A stroker kit a valvetrain kit and a new intake will more than likely give me that, I'd be willing to bet it's cheaper than doing a y block build as well. and fe's are really cool.
I bet the motor as it is now, without anything to make it go fast, will do ok. You have a lot of other, more important stuff to worry about right now. You can work on go fast stuff after you get it driving
Oh well of course I don't plan on building a motor anytime soon. I'd have to box the frame put better brakes on etc. the only thing I'd do now is put a better intake and headers on it. I'm more worried about making it stop and hande good, for what it is, than making it run right now.
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