Technical 1955 Ford steering problems

Hey guys, I'm new here to the HAMB, and I own a 1955 Ford Fairlane sedan. It's a 272 y block and fordomatic. I've always had problems with the steering in 2 areas. The first problem is power steering only works th the right. I've read that this can be the steering gearbox, but I was also wondering if it could be the power steering control valve that these old Fords have? I don't want to put down a bunch of time and money rebuilding something that doesn't need it. Also, another possibility related problem is that the steering has a lot of play. I tried tightening up the box, but that didn't really help much. Could this also be the box? Or control valve?? I already did tie rod ends so I could rule those out. Any ideas where I should start?? Thanks everyone

 

55 doesn't have a power steering gearbox, they are all the same, the power steering works with the control valve and power piston, the hydro piston pushes and pulls, the control valve controls the direction of the fluid into the piston

 

Thanks for the response. I know that the gearbox is the same for all 55s, regardless of power steering. But I was just wondering if the the no power ***ist in one direction is the box or the valve? I was thinking the valve, but then again not too sure. Also can the play be the valve or the box? It's so bad that when I am on uneven roads or hit any bumps, my steering wheel shakes violently back and forth until I force it in one direction to stop the shaking.

 

Any issues with the 'power' in the steering will be in the control valve on the center link. As to play in the steering, first place I'd look would be the power steering idler arm. Ford used a rubber bushing in 'torsion' as the means to return the steering to center, these fail over time. That bushing is also a total PITA to replace if it is bad. My experience is the replacement aftermarket bushings are of poor quality and don't last long in a daily driver. I converted the one I had to manual steering after two bushing failures, problem solved.

Play in the steering box is harder to deal with. The failure point here is usually the worm gear bearings. Ford used tapered roller bearings on the worm gear/shaft. For some unknown reason, Ford machined the inner races onto the worm gear then hard-chromed them. The plating fractures and falls off and you get slop in the steering. If you feel any 'notchiness' while turning the wheel either way, this is the problem. The fix is a new gear/shaft, but good luck finding one... Note that Ford used this steering box in multiple cars and most parts interchange, but the shaft lengths are all different so you need an exact replacement.

 

Thank you, that was super helpful. Going to check the idler arm now. What exactly am I looking for, just blown bushings at either end of the idler arm? Also, I should be able to just jack the car up and have someone turn the wheel and see if play is coming before or after the box, and that should tell me if the box is bad, correct? And what type of oil goes into the box? Just in case it's a bit low, I'd like to top it off.

 

With the p***enger side front wheel of the car off the ground, grab the wheel and try to turn it left/right while watching the idler arm. If the center link at the idle arm end moves up and down any more than about 1/4" total, there's your problem. Ideally, there should be almost zero play there, but the steering can usually tolerate up to that 1/4" before it becomes noticeable in the steering.

At one time, Moog made an 'improved' idler arm for these that used bearings and a spring to eliminate the rubber bushings and retain the 'centering' feature but it's long-discontinued. I never found one... Truthfully, converting to manual steering doesn't really increase steering effort that much; you'll barely notice it on the road, and the increased effort when parking isn't that bad. The steering linkage is the same on all cars, so finding the parts shouldn't be difficult.

Ford specs out 90W gear oil for the steering gearbox, but a old-time Ford mechanic told me to use a good quality ch***is grease instead and pump 'er full, so that's what I've done on these when I owned them. The heavier grease will help with free play.

 

Probobly the power steering ***ist valve. Motor manual for that year has an adjustment for them. Good Luck

 

I suspect the problem is in the control valve, especially if some one has replaced the seals without referring to the manual for final adjustments.
Remove the cap on the end of the control valve. You will see a spring loaded lock nut. Tighten this nut, then back off 90 degrees, replace cap. That's it.
I'm betting the nut is tightened down to a dead stop.

 

Had some problems with mine too. Sticking piston in the controlvalve. There is a shop in Orange Ca. That advertises in Drive Mag and do them all the time. These are power ***ist as u turn the wheel the first movement moves the piston in the valve and moves fluid into the ram to ***ist you. After a time the one they did for me leaked again. The Ford Manual show how to replace the seals. I bought what are called "quad" seals from a guy in central Ca. and fixed it myself and it has never leaked again. There is a setting for the control valve to the frame on the tie rods that is very important so the car will go straight. Remember all cars with PS were ***ist and control valves, rams, hoses, and **** was everywhere. You can covert back ez as guys putting in Saginaw boxes are listing stock stuff in E-Bay.. Good luck.