Hot Rods Drop steering arm and brake mounting plate

I am trying to put on new spindles and 3 3/4 drop steering arms. Got the spindles on no problem, can mount the disc brake adapter plate to the spindle but then am not able to put the drop steering arm on. This is going on a drop front beam and replacing the original sprindles

Not sure what I am doing wrong here! Anyone else have this same issue and what did you do? Is it as simple as putting a spacer on the other side for the drop steering arm?

Some pictures, not sure if they will be much help!

Parts all came from Speedway
Brake kit 91031909
Drop steering arm 7022756
Spindle 91632104

Any help is much appreciated

 

kerwing, What exactly is the the problem you're having?
Is the steering arm rubbing against the axle causing a poor fit?
It looks like it's mushroomed where it "bolts" against the axle backing plate.
Can't tell from the photos.

 

The steering arm is hitting on the axle so will not allow it to go on. I am begining to wonder if I need a different brake kit

 

From the Speedway parts description: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Complete-Disc-Brake-Kit-1937-48-Ford-5-on-5-1-2-BC,1997.html

"This kit will work with spindles having either original steering arms or with flat steel steering arms. It will NOT work with forged aftermarket steering arms. Wheels must have 3-7/16" center hole and have been designed for disc brake applications. Will NOT work with early Ford factory wire or steel drum brake wheels. You will need to use a later disc brake steel wheel or aftermarket wheel."

 

The way around it is to either use a stock spindle heated and bent or the ch***is engineering one.

 

I like/use the CE type.

 

Do these sit better inside the axle since they are not as round? Looks like that is the key to a better fit but have to ask.
Part number
AR-2121M Steering Arms for 1935-1948 Ford (Disc Brakes)

 

Look at the difference in design. That's why they'll work.

 

X2--what he said--totally different design--these are my choice-have been on many 40's out of here.

 

Never used them myself, but lots of people have. I use the original forgings.

 

Original bent and dropped.

 

That looks like what I need as long as the disc brake adapter plate will bolt on as well. Seems that plate is what is pushing the arm out to far

 

Dude.......... just buy the new arms and get on it.

 

Yep

 

Thanks for all the help!! New set of steering arms ordered

 

Good man. Now, post some pics or a link to the build, please.

 

I looked at pics of my old '36 and it looks like it had a forged type bracket and bolt on arm.

 

Yea, looks good. The OP just ordered the wrong brake kit. When I get to this point in my build, I'm using the arms that require thru bolts. Looks and probably is stronger.

 

Will be interesting to see how that combination of parts works out on the Superbell (?) axle.

Best way would be a set of stock spindles and bend the arms to clear the axle.

We just had to get creative with this brake kit and CE arms on a '40 style Magnum axle. With the arm spaced inboard 7/8" (5/8" spacer & 3/8" caliper bracket) there was no turning radius.

 

My issue was the turning radius as well, once I get the new arms installed I will post some pics of how they look. Thought new spindles and arms would be better than bending the arms but maybe..

 

I liked forged parts before, but I really like original forged parts now. The '36 does have a Superbell axle under it, but I have an original Ford axle to drop and swap it out. I forgot that the brake brackets were also Superbell.

 

Since your Speedway brake kit has such a deep spacer between the spindle and caliper bracket, I think you will still have problems with the Ch***is Engineering arms as well.

That disk brake kit was not designed for any kind of bolt-on arms.

 

I remembered over the weekend that you have to put the nuts on the inside with the CE arms as they won't clear the axle if on the outside. I grabbed a picture when I was up at the Columbus shop today. Not a Superbell axle; but my CE is not that much different in shape. The bolt head has only about 3/16" clearance when turned, definitely no room for spacers. I may be able to get a picture of how we cheated on a similar combo later in the week.

 

Got one of the steering arms on but the tie rod was to low to go through the wishbone so tried underneath and that is too low. Any thoughts?

I am beginning to wonder if disc brakes are even worth the effort and go back to drum!!

Thanks for any insight and advice

 

You could taper the the arms half way down from on top and run the tie rod on top, if you had clearance thru the center of the car to do so.

 

Are you sure you've got those parts in the right order? Surely the rear eye of the steering arm should be hard against the spindle, not with a fat spacer?????

Are the caliper brackets on the correct side of the spindle? Just asking because it looks all wonky to me.

 

The issue I think are the brackets for the disc brake setup that I have as that needs the spacer. After reading more on this, I am not the only one that has had this issue. What I didn't know at the time was that the disc brake kit I used was not compatible with the dropped axle and steering arms that I am trying to use.

 

I've tapered my steering arms halfway from the other side like Rich B suggested. Worked just fine.

 

I am with you on the bolt thru arms......had a 29 sedan and was driving on interstate and my steering arm on the p*** side fell off ...bolt's stripped .....lucky I did not panic...pulled her down into low gear and turn the key off and let it cost to side of road....did not hit the brakes........when I got stopped.....I got out and both front wheels were pointed in the opposite direction......had to call roll back....went back with bolt thru steering arm's....could have ended real bad........but it is your choice