63 Belair,rust free,rebuilt 235 inline 6,auto,its got aftermarket AC and heat,paint is decent,interior is stock,with reupholstered front seat, I know the top half is a nice paint job but design is not cool,need some help on weighin out price ?? Its a trade offer I got on a truck I got. Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Rust free as in never any rust? Or patched/fixed? If the former, I would think at least 5-6k maybe more
I know top half is not cool, nice paint but the flames kill the car and the gold around the door and back windows.. Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
1. $18,700 2. $13,090 3. $ 8,420 4. $ 3,740 5. $ 2,240 6. $ 750 For all of the above, deduct 10% for 6 cylinder
deduct $1500 to $2000 for new paint ( and fixing what MIGHT be hiding )- $4500. Don't buy it for a ton of money unless you like it " as is" ( which I doubt. Even doing body work and paint yourself, it's not hard to dump 2 grand into a car.) Good luck.
Sometimes rust free just means that they are not charging for the rust. The painted **** ugly for sure, I am not really good at colors but even I know that the 2 tone colors are not a good choice. And paint is not cheap so I suppose that add the price of paint to the cost when determining value for sure. Compound that by the chance that there may be bad body work under the paint and the cost to make it pleasant to the eye just jumped up there. If one is not planning on building a car all that needs to be taken into account when looking at a finished car. If I am looking at a car to drive I never look at a car that I don't like, unless it is just so cheap that I cannot afford to not like it. OK so I didn't answer the question correct? for me the car would be worth project money not finished car money because aside from the paint it does not have a desirable drivetrain either. Oh and I just noticed the wheels don't match either.
If its actually rust free 5-6K. A six cylinder with auto means it can't get out of its own way. No paint is better then bad paint because it has to be removed. Gary
The wheels all match they are rally 15" with the caps and beauty rings, the moon disks are gone, I agree paint is awful, I'm going to get it down low,steel wheels,195-70-15 thin white walls,spider caps and see if it motivates me to go further, I cant do anything on the paint unless Im ready to spend some money on new paint, i got some of the things on hand so I wont be spending any money on that as far as steel wheels, spider caps.. we"ll see
Would like to find a 63 that straight. It should be a 230 six with an air cooled powerglide. I had one and it did fine on the streets. A bit hard to steer. Rode like a dream at stock height.
its a very straight car, from what I can see, it runs great, and the aftermarket ac should bring in some value, that is probably a 1500 upgrade there, Im ***uming..
Don't know about FLA, but you ain't gonna find a 2 door 63 Chevy around here for less than 8k. And it would probably be a heap held together with clothes hangers, duct tape and mud.
I'm in the minority I guess, I don't think the paint is that bad at all, at least not the LOWER part of the car; the flames, no so much. Good start for a real hot rod; W-motor with a 4 speed, or built SBC with a beefed/high stall converter Glide, or a TH350 changeover (that will require a shorter driveline, and it can be converted to a single piece shaft at that time also). Too many different "themes" going on initially; pick one and go with it. I like the car! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Those 2dr post cars bring a premium in these parts. Just because they make such good era correct low-buck hotrods. Three quarts of primer and a set of Torque-Thrusts, & it's a completely different animal. Stout sbc & 4spd to come later. Shiney paint after that.... I like 'em. I'd venture 6 to 8-ish dependent on true condition around here.
The paint wouldn't be as bad if you just repainted the door posts, that sticks out the worst for me. The rest I could deal with for a driver. 6 cylinder wouldn't bug me either, and if it's really rust free, that's worth something. Wheels and stance are poor but easy to fix. ***uming it's fully roadworthy driveable and really is rust-free, I'd say $6K. If it had the right wheels/stance/paint those door posts, probably $8K
this is the look Im going for .. no bags, just a static drop..with steelie wheels and spider caps 3" drop.. caps
Scuff it up and shoot it with black primer, put your wheels on, and drive it. Save up, and put a 283 or 327 in it. It is what it is.
Just paint over the gold on the door posts and get it to sit right, the paint really isn't that bad. It's better than primer. You can have a spray can made to match the darker green and do it yourself in the driveway in a couple hours. Your planned wheels would be better than these caps but I didn't have any to import. Really though, this is a pretty decent looking car with just the two things changed.
Thanks squablow for the photoshop, the door post definitely, 100% agreed.. Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
X2 on Squablow's changing the color of those door posts makes a huge difference. I say just do that for low budget fix, lower it and use some Astro Supremes with skinny whites. The drive it and have fun, enjoy the cool A/C in the FL summer heat and humidity.
The Jalopy Journal
