Gotta do a little brake work on the wagon so I Figure I should just go ahead and make it a little safer while I'm already working on it. Trying to figure this out and want to see if what I'm looking at is correct. I'm seeing there was a dual chamber master cylinder used on the 65 & 66 buicks, and they used the same brake booster as my 64 does. If this is the case i should be able to just bolt on the dual chamber master cylinder and hook up my brake lines and be done with it, right? Heres the part numbers I've got if anyone wants to do any checking. 65 Buick Master cylinder-Bendix #R12058 It's listed to fit 64-66 Lesabre & Wildcats, and a whole ****load of mid 80' gm stuff. 64 Buick Master cylinder-Bendix #11258 Power brake booster-Cardone #5371324 I was looking all this stuff up @ AdvanceAutoParts.com since I work there part time & get a discount. Theres a big difference in the way those two master cylinders look so that's throwing me off a little.
We do the single to two pot master cylinder swap all of the time with mid' 60s Fords. So long as the bolt pattern is the same as your old M/C, go for it! You might have to adjust the pushrod that comes out of your booster to fully engage the new M/C's piston, but that's about all.
I did the swap on all my 1965 Chevelles, I get a Master cyl for a 1967 Chevelle and it bolts right in. If your 64 model has a newer model, check that one for the swap. old spoke
I guess since it lists that it will fit, I'll just order both and make sure they fit the same and send back them back if they won't work. I'm going ahead and replacing everything but the hard lines (unless I find some of them that need to be replaced). I'm willing to bet I screwed up one of the old rubber lines playing with the airbags on the car and that's what made this little leak I have. Thanks for your input.
double ckeck the hard lines along where the clips are, I had one that worked fine until i whacked it with a wrench, it fell into 2 pieces. And with alot of suspension travel, make sure the rubber lines don't work themselve loose with the twisting, thats what my rear line did. the line went into a 3way adapter and unscrewed itself, and with the single m/c, it was a bit scary. It may be worth the expense of 4wd aftermarket brake lines, they have alot of travel and abrasion resistance. Can't be too safe.
I'm guessing that I crunched one of the rubber lines bouncing the car around . Might jus tbe a leaky wheel cylinder though. It takes it about a week to leak out enough for me to notice. I'm headind out to get (or probaly order) all the stuff I need to get it stopping like a new car!
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