hows it going everyone. I have 53 bel air 4 door with still 235 engine in it. I have installed an electrical and used temp switch kit for local auto parts store. The issue is I have the switch that slide into radiator fins, this switch for some reason only last me a month or so and in trying to switch over that screws into a port don't know the size of of the switch 3/4 or 3/8 thread. I am currently using mechanical temp gauge and its screwed into the intake manifold where original temp gauge was. Reason had to replace was the br*** line was broken. So that takes away that location. I'm wanting to know is there any other source for me to insert a temp switch, that come in those cooling fan kits. Stock fan is gone due to previous owner. Thanks
If you're not using a relay to control the fan, it's high current that's killing the switch. Use the switch to operate a relay, and the relay contacts to operate the fan.
I'm using cooling fan relay kit, have ignition to the switch that's fused with 25A. Once it reaches power, switch closes powering up the relay. I have constant power source from battery fused with 25A, ground and switch from temp sensor that kicks on the fan.
I will explain how mine is wired and it works fine. Come off back of alt with 30 amp inline fuse to terminal #30 on relay, fan wire on terminal #87 on relay, switched 12 volt to #86 on relay, #85 on relay to temp switch in water jacket, #87a not used. power to fan comes into relay on #30 goes out on #87 high amp side of relay. Trigger power comes in on #86 and grounds through #85 when temp is up to @180.
Using a temp switch that mounts in the radiator fins is not the way to go. You can always mount the sensor in place of the drain ****. robtlor has got it right for the relay and fan wiring. Gary
@325w: I think 12 volts, unless someone makes a 6 volt fan kit??? Hell, I'd put a fan on the front pulley, like the '54 Chevys had...
Simple answer (***uming you don't want / can't use the stock mechanical fan): Painless fan relay kit #30102. Comes with everything you need. Screws in to the block.
Hi there, You didn't mention 6 or 12v. Make sure you're not running a 12v fan on 6 volts. That would draw significantly higher amperage than a proper 6v fan, thereby burning out your switch very quickly. Maradyne makes nice looking 6v fans. So does speedway motors. If it's 12v, make sure your whole circuit is properly grounded. If the relay drive side is wonky, you could fry your switch. Also, if the relay coil is way out of spec, it can draw a TON of current but still work, so you could always try swapping the relay. Good luck ~not old enough to know what I'm talking about, but too old for my parents to pay my mortgage.....stuck in the middle~
i believe he is looking for a place to install one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-75029/overview/ i have mine in a port on the p*** side intake but my intake is a edelbrock rpm air gap and has a port for this
That is not ideal, as the lower end of the radiator is the "cool end", where the coolant comes AFTER going through the radiator. You want the fan to be controlled by the coolant temperature coming out of the engine, not the coolant going back in - if the water flow slows down, perhaps because of a bad pump, the coolant coming out would heat up quickly, while coolant coming out of the radiator might be cooler than normal after spending much more time in the radiator.
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