Technical 1963 Ford Galaxy Fast Back...Saved from the crusher

Looks like this is going to make a pretty nice car. Great story on the engine.

 

Well I was able to get the Torque converter/Flex plate off the original seized engine. No an easy task since you can not rotate the engine to get to the nuts. I had pretty much destroyed one nut, even after heating with the torch I had to drive a 1/2 open end wrench on it(Original size was 9/16). I also picked up most of the parts the guy had stored in another barn. Push rods, Solid lifters, oil pump drive shaft, intake and exhaust gaskets, vale covers, air cleaner. I still have to get the fan and pulleys, but that will be in couple of weeks once I get the engine in and the one wire alternator slammed on. There was a an old 352 in the barn and it had the Road draft fitting in the back of the manifold. I got that too. He can not find the radiator expansion tank. Do In really need one?

 

If you have the bucket seats put them in. Non original motor, bucket seats, add or delete trim as you see fit, make it your own. The restoration crowd can piss off, this car is getting a second chance at life, make it shine.

 

I thought about the buckets. They are in worse shape than the bench. I don't have a console either. If I come across a T-10 someday I might just have to make a XL clone.

 

You need the tank, it has the fill cap on it. It is the high spot in the coolant system.

 

If you use the buckets, make sue you use the correct bucket brackets that install under the car.

Just my $.02 worth.

Sent from my SM-N910V using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Bigger problem today. I went to clean up the transmission pump shaft and in cam off in my hand. Looks like when they pulled the motor they got a little rough and broke the pump. I have a C6 under the bench from a mid 80's 302. Will the pump fit?

 

At least you found out before bolting altogether and installing in car.

 

I pulled the front pump out of the mid-80 small block C6 and measured the crap out of the pump surfaces. They seam to be the same. The one big difference I found was the newer pump had orange plastic/rubber bands that rotated easily in the slots on the shaft tube. The old one did not have these just open grooves. I bolted it in and the holes line up, the inner shafts are the same and the outer spline is the same. In my laymen's opinion I think it will work, but I am going to wait to install the engine to hear what you guys thoughts are.

 

Can't answer your front pump question, but I do want to congratulate you on a great score and it seems like it's moving forward nicely!
The dash board shot brought back great memories, my Mom had a '63 wagon that I drove on my very first car date.

 

Looks like all kinds of goodies came with the car.Looks like a fun build in the making.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Be happy with your oil pan gasket before you install the engine. Changing an oil pan gasket on a Galaxie with a 390/C6 in the car is a real chore.

 

Pan gasket looks pretty easy. Here is a pict of the 1988ish pump in this 1966ish case. Like I said I measured the groove locations, diameters and every place that I could and they both seamed the same. I wonder if I should remove those orange rings since the old one did not have them.

 

You said you had a tranny shop next door.I would just set it on their bench and have them go through it while it's halfway easy now and you will know what's in it & condition. Shouldn't be too much $. I did that same thing with a turbo 350 and it only cost me $175

 

I've done some research and it looks like they used the same pump from 1966 to 1996. Pretty amazing. I just called a guy who use to do a lot of transmission work, he said that the "orange" or even steel Sealing rings need to be there and he thinks that someone got into the pump, maybe after they broke it. They may not have put it back together correctly.

 

After closer inspection and realizing I may not be looking for orange rings but plain steel, they are there. This makes me feel better thinking that someone else may have got in there and screwed around would suck. Now not to make the same mistake as the people before me. Is there a trick to installing the torque converter on the transmission since there is no inspection plate ie Round Bell housing. Normally I would make sure the torque converter was seated properly and then install the engine Turing the flex plate until it slip on the bolts. Rotate the engine to tighten the nuts through the inspection cover. Can do that on this one...

 

I stopped to the tranny shop across from where I work. They had the pump gasket o-ring and pump seal. $11 bucks. For Shirts and Squiggles I asked how much to rebuild to stock. He told me $750 with a rebuilt torque converter. Anyway I replaced the seal, gasket and o-ring. I lubricated the oring and seal with Vaseline and bolted it in. He told me that the input shaft should turn, and it does right up to I put the last turn on the bolts. Then Its too tight to turn by had. Most of the tranny fluid has ran out of the tranny, could this cause the tightness? I had a beeatch of a time getting the torque converter in but it finally went.

 

63.5 Galaxies? I lovem.
If you need any help with anything ask, I've pretty much torn every piece of these car apart. Same goes with Fe's and c6 transmissions.

Here are a few links from builds I've documented regarding 63.5's:
Making a full roller c6: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=2316.0
Rear end work: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/makin-progress/553305-2013-progress-my-63-5-galaxie.html
rebuilding/resealing heater box: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/584961-galaxie-heater-box-rebuild.html#post2238721

My car:


My recent FE build:



Good luck!
Drew

 

Thanks Drew, Any thoughts on the input shaft not turning by hand once the pump is fully tightened?

 

By the way, Nice Car!

 

Another problem in the process of removing the Steering box, I popped the "Ball/Taper End" out of the control valve. I am not feeling the power steering as it is a ton of crap that I don't need. I found what looks to me to be a tierod end for $200. What makes this thing worth $200? Cant I just find a female tierod end that screws on the link and has the same taper to go into the pitman arm?

 

Input shaft of a c6 is pretty darn hard to turn by hand. Of course given the amount of work to install a c6, I am pretty certain I'd tear it down and at least toss an overhaul kit in it (it's like $60). I have a build thread for a c6 above that might reduce the intimidation factor a lil. They REALLY aren't that complicated once you understand how they function.

The Ballstud needs to be pulled from the control arm with a tie rod remover, NOT a pickle fork or you'll ruin the control valve. Course you know this now. I use a Ford power steering pulley remover to force the ball stud out of the pitman arm. Anyway, that Borgeson part above replaces the control valve. It works well, I have it on my car. Manual steering isn't that bad to be honest. If you wish to rebuild teh control valve, those aren't that bad either, but they are kinda tricky to get set up perfectly. I don't care for the factory power steering, so I sold all the PS parts. You could look for a tie rod end, I looked and couldn't find one that was perfect.

 

simple rebuild kit $60
Overhaul kit $30
https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=C6&TransPartsType=C6

 

I think the shaft will turn, just I'm not strong enough to do it. I wiped off the oil(Mistake I Know) on it before putting it in since it was so slippery to hang on to... so its extra dry. I plan putting a new filter on it and cleaning the pan. The reason I am not going gang busters on this build is I have no idea if the car is even going to run. The engine was rebuilt but has sat on the stand for 5 maybe closer to 10 years. As for the steering, I found a Borgeson 990004 for $141 online. I think I will take the control valve off and measure the shaft. Moog has a pretty good website showing dimensions of there products. I think I will do some research before spending $150. Thanks for the help.

 

What do you think about this little guy and a heim joint that screws onto the center link. $8 on ebay and $12 for the cheap heim. Maybe I would even spring for the higher quality heim and a grade 8 bolt. I know I'm cheap. But $40 is a lot nicer than 140.

 

Deep Roots, that FE is beeeautiful. I can almost hear it if I concentrate real hard. Those '63 Galaxies with that roof line are way up there on my wish list.

 

The main reason you can't just use a tie rod end or heim joint is that 'special' end has two springs inside holding the ball sockets for the tapered stud that absorb road shocks and prevents transferring them to the steering box. Your power steering link does the same thing, only it's done hydraulically.

 

Yeah, I'm with crazy steve on this one..... I'm an engineer by nature and profession, I view all parts for a specific purpose. Thus why I went with the proper part for the job. I cannot tell you what *might* work for something that could very well detach your steering while driving and kill you.

bob, if ya wanted to hear the FE all ya had to do is ask.....
engine is 446ci C3AE block with BBM aftermarket aluminum heads (yes I painted the aluminum heads), Solid Flat tappet .600lift 246/252 @ .050 cam. Intake is BT Medium riser 2x4, with 2 custom Quickfuel 600cfm carbs. Custom convertor, full roller c6, Gearvendors behind it and 4.30rear gears in a strange case with a trutrac locker. Next mission is caltracs, boxing in the leaf spring perches and some slicks. A wild guess is it's 525-550hp. I had Lykins motorsports do the short block, I did the rest of the build.
Engine just post cam break in:
http://vid68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/DeepRootsNursery/445/MVI_1616_zpsxmhh0oyh.mp4

Now that I've got it tuned, it's a runner for sure.

Drew

 

That makes sense. I guess. I have a drag link off my 48 F1. It has the exact same end As the one in the pict. Just need to cut it off and ten some thread in it.

 

Looks like the same thing to me.