Thanks Guys for putting this together , I like to do everything myself and need to rebuild some 97's ASAP.. I don't know what has happened to two of my cars with the 97's but pouring gas out the accelerator pump tops? thanks John Is it tech week yet???
Why sure...... How we did the other threads were, I would post scanned info., tech do***ents, pics, etc........Bruce Lancaster would weigh in and then we opened it to others for adding to the thread and debate.... like i said, we pretty much only completed the identification, various tech lit from stromberg and ford.......the actual rebuilding was supposed to be next but i've been side tracked with kids.......we keep having them! someone tell us to STOP!
In the October 1956 Rod and Custom magazine they show the whole step by step process of setting up tri power with 97s for the rod and custom dream truck. They show them sanding the bottom of the air horn with a belt sander as well as the top and bottom of the base to get everything straight. Strombergs97 mentions lightly tapping the top of the airhorn with a rubber mallet..........which is the better method of getting them flat???
Sanding, milling or filing all work, but it's best to flatten them first with the rubber-hammer tweaking method that what's his name mentioned. Another way to get a good preliminary flat surface is to warm the tops with a heat-gun and clamp them to a flat machined surface block and walk away from them till they cool. When sanding, milling or filing, USE CAUTION not to remove too much material; that will throw off the geometry of the fulcrum lever, causing the pump stroke to be shortened which makes the powervalve come to the party early. Some folks use extra-thick top gaskets to compensate for this. Also, it's a good idea to use an in/lb torque screwdriver set at 10 in/lbs for final ***embly.
Yes, serious sanding is a bad idea--you can get to the point where the dip above your new straight edge is visible! Flat plate drilled for regular screw pattern, clamps (or a crossbar with two screws coming down) with some sort of plastic pads so you don't destroy the surface. I think a VERY slight frown at the front is good--shim middle with gasket material and bring corners down slowly and SLIGHTLY.
uncle max, or is it whats your name..Anyway, just another dig by you.. On to your way or doing things. Remember your heating "Pot, garbage, left over, s****, mixed material".Not a good idea, that cheap metal can crawl on you, get hard and soft spots..Those poor little molecules are confused enough..Sanding, milling will weaken the flange of the air horn and can cause cracking when tighten..those little screw holes don't have much of a shoulder already..I think, don't do it.. Another way to deal with slightly warped air horns is to helicoil the the body threads, (they become stronger) and tighten the air horn down..WORKS.. Everybody has their own way..Without IDEAS, where would we be..still trying to figure out the wheel.. Duane..
Ease-up there young fellow. It wasn't a dig. I just couldn't remember your name. I have to say, in spite of the molecular structure of these old relics, that sometimes when working with them, especially when it comes to removing stubborn powervalves, that a little heat when kept under 250 degrees, can be your best friend.
GREAT Thread guys!!! Uncle Max.....after pulling the emulsion tubes via your 'puller'.....are they reused once ports are cleaned? Or do you need to replace 'em? I have 4 I'm getting ready for rebuild and am beginning to order parts. Thanks!!
SinCus - I remove em, acid etch them and plate them. PM me and I'll send you some, No/Charge. Well, maybe two bucks for the mailman. . .
Hello..I have an idea, no heat..Have 97 body at room temp or warmer and do the reverse..Take a piece of round 3/8" stock put it into the freezer for several hours along with the correct screwdriver..Remove from freezer the rod and screwdriver, place the rod on the power valve and let set for 2 - 3 mins, then try to remove with screwdriver that just came out of the freezer..Heat expands and cold contracts.. Of course the power valve should have been soaking in PB for several days or weeks.. It works.. Just another way to remove the power valve.. Duane..
Reviving necro thread - can someone provide any tips on removing and replacing Stromberg 97 discharge tubes (candy canes)? It looks like Webrodder.com might be defunct as I cannot access any of their articles, so advice especially on replacing the candy canes is appreciated.
Anyone have a suggestion for reinstalling the plunger on the bottom of the accelerator pump rod? It has a spring on the end, wrapped in a leather "skirt". When ***embling, the skirt wants to hike up (that's usually a good thing) and I'm not able to set it all the way down in the hole with the skirt sealing it. Not sure how to do this....
I tip the plunger into the hole at a slight angle, then tip it upright slowly as I work the edge in with a pointed whatever I can reach. A bit of oil is sometimes needed. If it really grabs...I haven't see that...I'd say get some thin metal (beer can), cut a piece to wrap around the leather, oilitall, and hold on to the metal as you slide the thing in. If you can't...roll up the leather so you can scrutinize the thing in comparison to your old one. Maybe the spring has somehow ridden up?
I discovered the joys of Evapo Rust recently, and verified for myself that it does not harm the Stromberg zinc in long immersion. There isn't much steel to soak on one of these...but often the hardware has rusted and unscrewing it pulls the rough rusted screw threads through the delicate zinc. Since the Evapo Rust has proven itself harmless, I now drop entire carbs in to soak off the rust before doing any other work. It even seems to have some ability to seep up into the covered threads a bit.
Weld Splatter, thanks for resurrecting this thread. I notice some references to Holly 94s, so I hope my post will not be considered a hijack. (If it is, delete it). "New standard size (.275") throttleshafts and stainless bushings are available. You need to ream the bushings to .278"; that's .001" tighter than Ford spec and works well using PTFE as a lube for them to glide on. " The stock Holly throttle shafts are .277. The repair shafts are .282. If the same tolerances are applied to the Holly .282 shaft as the Stromberg .275, a clearance of .003 seems appropriate. .003 seems a little loose to completely hold vacuum. Is this tolerance OK for end carbs that need a complete seal? Thanks for any comments on throttle shaft seal tolerances any one may provide.
I was wandering by, noticed this thread and it got me to thinking about the "olden dayz". Is there anyone here that has done or used 48's or 97's converted to run 100% nitro? I did quite a few by installing .250 dia. emulsion tubes (we called them dump tubes back then) and converting them to floatless.
The Jalopy Journal
