So I know this has been talked about a lot but I think I'm making this harder than it really is. I searched and searched but didn't really find anything that helped me with what I am doing. What I'm trying to do is put a t5 behind my 8ba with my stock flywheel and pressure plate in my model A pickup. Basically to save money and simplicity of running what was already on the engine. My truck is setup to use a hydraulic throw out bearing. And I already have the bellhosuing adapter from speedway. So can I use my stock flywheel, 9" s10 clutch disk from speedway, stock 8ba 9" 3 finger pressure plate, and a t5 hydraulic throw out bearing? Thanks, Mike.
You will need to get the newer style pressure plate which speedway also sells to run the hydraulic throw out bearing. Sent from my XT1585 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok cool thanks for the response. So basically I can get any 9" diaphragm pressure plate and re-drill my fly wheel? Or is there something different about the Speedway pressure plate?
I used the complete set up from Cornhuskers Hot Rods, only thing I needed was the gm clutch plate available from Speedway and I replaced the through out bearing with a USA Made Timkin bearing
I guess we were lucky - ours went together pretty easy. Our engine came with the two piece truck bell housing. Used an adapter from Nostalgia Sid's (1" thick aluminum plate). Used the original flywheel, pressure plate. An Astro van disc from NAPA splined up with the S10 T5 just perfect. Think we shortened the input shaft very slightly. We used the stock throw out bearing and not hydraulic so I'm not sure how this would change the mix. Either way, it's a dream combo. Makes the little flattie come to life.....
I'm doing pretty much the same as ruffdawg except I am using Dwight Bond's adapter plate. I got the Astro Van clutch disk from Rock Auto for a reasonable price. Since there are different splines on the input shafts of some T 5 transmissions you do need to make sure you order the correct spline disk for the input shaft you have on your transmission.
Don't use that Speedway clutch disc....it's junk! You can have your local friction shop build a good one from scratch for just a few bucks more. Same with the pressure plate.
You can get them from NAPA as well, have used them on a few SBC and flattie builds. Sent from my XT1585 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
What kind of power are you looking to be pushing out? The T5 wasn't a great trans and didn't hold up well as my understanding when behind a stock 305 or 350 in the Camaros in the late 80s early 90s. I agree with running a better clutch and pressure plate as you will save yourself a headache later unless pulling the trans out is a favorite job. Just some thoughts. Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
For a street build, a flathead would put out maybe 150-200hp, possibly more if blown. Certainly no more than 300, which they've been proven to hold up behind as long as you don't beat on it.
Indeed. The rated torque is for continuous load, not shock-load. Too many people badmouth the T5. Don't listen to them. They are full of crap.
I'm looking into this with my '50 shoebox. I need to use the original clutch linkage, which may be a challenge.
Just be aware, if you are running a non-world-class T5, such as from an S10, you absolutely MUST use API-GL4 lube, NOT GL5. GL5 eats brass parts. This is the source of much of the rampant disinformation about the longevity of the T5. Too many were fill with GL5, and ruined.
Offenhauser makes a "narrow toploader to GM adapter. You would have to verify your bellhousing depth, through.
Sounds like the T5 would work well for what you want to do. Any transmission no matter how stout is subject to break if abused. The T5 has its uses for certain applications. For your application, I doubt you would come close to hurting it driving normal. A lot of the failures I have heard about have been a direct result of the driver beating on the trans. I do also agree with correct fluid for the units. Follow what is recommended fluid as some of the transmissions do not tolerate different fluid types. Hope it works out well for what you want to do. Having an overdrive is definitely a great upgrade for any car or truck that never had one. Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
I don't specifically have a problem with the T5 as I have driven vehicles with them and they did fine for that application. The Firebird I worked on had one that had some issues that needed addressing but the owner wasn't exactly grandma in the way he drove the car either. It had a stock 350 as it was a Formula model from the factory. In reality it's not the T5's fault if it fails due to abuse. It's purely related to the driver that pushed it past normal operation. As we all know, if you beat on something long enough, it will probably fail no matter how stout and well designed it is. The teams running the high dollar transmissions in the funny cars break them too. So as far as the T5, it will work fine. If you want to bang gears and drop the clutch drag racing light to light, it might live for a while doing that or you might end up having to fix what you break. A friend of mine has one in his S10 that has never been a part in the 280k miles on it. It's behind a 2.2 4 cylinder and should live forever. So, depending on application, one part may be great or could be completely opposite and fail. It is up to us to know if it is capable of the application we are using it for. Just my thoughts. Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
I bought all my hook up stuff from these guys. http://www.wilcap.com/ Knowledgable, great products and everything fit correctly. I am running the T-5 from a S-10 that I had rebuilt behind my 471 blown 8BA, aluminum flywheel, McLeod disc and T/O, The T-5 will handle everything I am throwing at it which is more than most flatheads Not as cheap as Speedway... but not as cheap as Speedway.
Using a T5 behind my 350 crate for my 31 coupe build, hopefully it will hold up. Modern Driveline has the set up with a new t5z and their new cast tail housing to move the shifter forward.
For a clutch disc, Napa sells a 9-11/16" diameter Luk disc for a mid 80's s-10 Blazer 4x4. ND4201 is the part number and it's $28. Obviously, this requires a 10" pressure plate. Unfortunately, besides Speedway or a clutch shop, no-one that I know of sells just a 9" disc. For a hydraulic release bearing, I have used the Howe 82876 bearing. Even though it says it's for a T5, it's for a v8 Camaro T5 and will be 5/8" too short if you are using an S-10 T5 input. So, I either get an extra shim kit, Howe 82873 or machine a collar the length I need and use no shims.
What you really need is a world class T-5 with Camaro/Firebird V8 gears and an S-10 tailshaft with the forward mounted shifter. S-10 gears, particularly 1st, are so low that you will make your shift to second before you clear a two way intersection. You can bolt this combo up to any regular flathead to Chevy transmission adapter.
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