For years I have always had Br*** Radiators. Due to the cost of them now ,almost 900 dollars !! I have had my 1st aluminum radiator built for a mild SBC. Didn't get much info along with it . Question :Using a quality aluminum radiator and running a presurized system with a overflow tube what pessure cap should I use? Gene
You should ask the company you got the radiator from. I just submitted a template for a radiator for my MG race car to Wizard cooling while I was at the Syracuse show. They tell you everything from size of tube and how many fins on each tube to radiator cap and and correct fan to use. Pat
What car is it in? Original heater? What thermostat? New build or just new radiator? What temp does it run?
Opps sorry 1929 Model A Coupe 1975 350 sbc Basically stock,stock heads and compression. No heater or air, 180 thermostat New build- New radiator not installed as yet, 350 T/H Trans with cooling lines to radiator, will be using shroud with electric fan. Gene
There is no doubt the copper/br*** radiators have gotten expensive,but if you plan on keeping the car for the long haul it's worth the price of admission. The Walker in my old deuce sedan is now 21 years old and still works great. HRP
The AFCO aluminum in my T is 15 yrs. old & still works fine , keep it clean , you'll be just fine dave Oh yea , I run a 15# cap
+1 on the 15#-16# cap. If you are nervous about potentially higher pressure, you could run a 7# cap, and unless it runs hot enough to blow off it would be fine also. Matt
I'm not critsizing those of you that use aluminum radiators.I actually will be using one for the 1st time, but how many of you with aluminum radiators are using a shroud with electric fan to keep them cool instead of a rigid fan with a cowl.Ya, I know it depends on the motor and the set up. Let's just say those of you that have a stock v-8's or close to. I suppose this debate could go on for years(aluminum opposed to br***/copper).Not trying to start anything ,just curious ?? As I said the cost is a factor for me now that I'm retired Gene
Using a 2 row Brice Thomas aluminum in front of a mild flathead, stock fan with no shroud. Haven't had a chance to push it much, but never gets hot idling in traffic on 90-10 0 degree days. Aluminum has excellent heat transfer properties, that's one reason why it is harder to cut with plasma and why it requires much more heat to weld.
I have one in my '40 A SuperiorRadiator From Mt. Clemon Mich. I added an anode in the drain 1/4" FNPT it is designed to cut down/eliminate corrosion due to the dissimilar metals in the cooling system.$10 cheap insurance , My SBC runs at 185F even in 90+ weather
no shroud here and it cools perfectly fine. Stock heads not alot of stuff going on here just a crate 350. And most of the time the fan is never on unless it over 190 then it kick on.
Put an aluminum radiator in my avatar 3 years ago, powder coated it then, looks and works great, just remember to shock mount them well, I used barry mounts used in experimental aircraft,
We have a dual p*** cross flow aluminum rad in our 1/2 mile dirt race car. Runs 180* while racing and up to 210* during yellow flags and run a tested 30# cap. I agree with mounting them correctly. We do it very similar to stock by supporting it at the tank/fin part line. Good luck.
The Anode mentioned to prevent corrosion etc for aluminum radiators I've heard about . I believe you can by a radiator cap that has that built in. Also interesting about using Barry Mounts . Never heard of them ?? Gene
These are low priced barry mounts. (22000 series) Available at aircraftspruce.com I believe they are about $9.00 each.
There are several different types of Barry Mounts. Personally I don't see any advantage over what Henry used for many years. These were used from 1928 thru 1948 .HRP
An overflow (recovery) tank will have no bearing on the choice of cap pressure. The pressurized caps all have a recovery system, and as the radiator cools it creates vacuum that pulls the coolant past a spring loaded valve back into the radiator. The PRESSURE of the cap does not come in to play other than detrmining what temperature coolant will blow into the recovery tank. Matt
I just junked a br*** radiator that was not big enough, and put a Summit cheapie aluminum rad in my RPU, and the first thing I did was top it off with a good strong mix of the correct coolant. Not going to run straight water in this thing. And yes, it cured the overheating problems immediately. I have a 9# cap on it. Just happened to be on the shelf, as no cap came with the rad.
I was pointing out that any # pressure cap will work with a recovery tank. No matter if it is 7, 15, 18 or whatever the pressure relief is, it has no bearing on the function of a recovery tank.
I ***ume you mean the aluminum properties? As to harder to cut with plasma, aluminum has great heat transfer so there is a greater heat loss into the material being cut, but the other big issue is that it is a poor conductor of electricity compared to steel, copper, etc. Plasma cutting relies on electrical conductivity to complete the circuit to ground so metals that don't conduct as well require more current to cut. Got to crank up the cutter amperage. That's why when you see aluminum wire for your house it is a bigger gauge than copper for the same amperage. But it also carries off the heat from higher amperage better. Same reason it take a lot more amperage to weld aluminum than steel. Somewhere in all that ******** is why aluminum radiators cool very well. Matt
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