Technical Teapot (Holley 4000) ID

I have two Holley 4000 teapot carbs that I got with a dual 4 barrel intake. I doubt I will use them and am considering selling them in order to have money for my projects. I would like to include info on what they came on so I can include in the ad. The ID is as follows:
Holley 4000 ECZ-9510L 1162-2N and Holley 4000 ECZ-9510L 1162-2. Pretty sure they were no "matching" dual carbs. I've had them for several years and can't remember what the seller told me about the carbs. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

1956 Ford & Merc., 292 Eng.

 

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What he said.

Link to the chart is below

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kford.htm

Oldmics

 

I sold that intake and carbs to you, gritsandgumbo. I think I told you the carbs were a "matching pair" and would be a good start for converting them to run as dual quads. I did a pair of 9510-M teapots and they ran pretty good. The only reason I put them on the self was I lucked into a set of real E-code carbs!

Your carbs were in pretty nice shape. I'd be happy to give you $25 for 'em!


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You're correct. You did sell them to me. Thanks for responding. I did some research on them when I bought them, but I've been through some minor illness, a couple of moves, a tornado, and a flood since then At 73 I've decided that I need to narrow my projects and concentrate on just one or two. I've been cleaning and unpacking my shop from the latest move (3 years ago) and finding some of my parts and accessories that I had acquired got me re-interested in my trucks again. I need to sell some of my stuff so I can buy more stuff to complete the first project . Although I have an Edelbrock 573 manifold with three with three beautiful refurbished 97's on the shelf, I really would like to use the two deuce manifold. Really don't feel comfortable rebuilding them myself, so thought it might be best to sell them and use modern carbs. Not sure what the N means at the end of the List #.

Again, thanks for responding and thank you also for the "generous offer".

 

Thanks, that helps. Still not sure what the N at the end of the List # means. I think I talked to you a couple of years ago when I bought them and as I recall, you were pretty jammed up with rebuild work. Any idea how much time to rebuild and convert these?

 

My 292 '56 Ford convert managed mid 14s/92 MPH with that one 'teapot'. (re-jetted and mechanized secondaries)
Chevy guys looked at the carb in the pits, said "Whazzat??!?"
Very reliable carburetor, no more 'strange' than the port positioning on the 'Y' block line...

 

Even with all my Holley manuals, I've never been able to find exactly what that "N" means. If the base just had a list number, it would have come from Holley as a new, replacement carb. So, my best guess is the "N" carb was a Ford supplied "new" replacement.

As far as converting them to run as dual quads, it's not terribly difficult. Just a little involved and it does take a little machining time. After doing mine and rebuilding a real pair of E-codes, I can't help but think the original designer's main objective (along with synchronizing the two carbs) was to decrease the flow through the primary venturies to eliminate off idle bog and improve low rpm driveability. The two sets of secondaries would be the "kick" for high rpm. So with that said, it looks like a set of standard carbs could run OK if restrictor plates with smaller primaries were installed (and the secondaries connected!). But, that's an untested theory since I now run the real things.

"You know.....depreciation, man" - Ray Charles in Blues Brothers.

 

Talk to Sal over on the Ford Barn late V8 forum. he is very knowledable on these carbs. If you decide to sell the Edelbrock 3x2 manifold I may be interested. e-mail me at mod1890@gci.net Thanks, Jim

 

Does the carb with the "N" have a choke? If not maybe it means No choke.

 

Are you sure the "N" is not a poorly or double stamped A?

An "A" would be perfectly normal.

Jon.

 

Interesting.

Is the fuel valve a press-in valve or a screw-in valve?

Jon.

 

Jon-
If I remember correctly, the tapered head brass plug fitting was typically used with the threaded needle seat and the flat head brass plug fitting was used with the slip in (held in place by a spring) needle seat. I find the slip in seats with the stainless steal ball end needle to be the most reliable (as in "less likely to leak"! ).


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back in my day we called them the Holley Towering inferno.