Technical Model AA vs banjo

I was fortunate enough to come across a AA frame with 2extra rear axles. The buggy I'm restoring has a 41 drive train but torque tube has been dramatically shortened. Would the AA axle/tube work with the 100hp flathead or is that too much power?
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If you really mean an AA (heavy commercial) rear end you should check out the ratio. I think I remember most of them being in the fives. Ask on fordbarn about available ratios. Chances are that it is too low for what you want.

Charlie Stephens

 

What's wrong with the '41 rear end?

 

5:1 would be a high speed rear ended for a AA, and those would be worth money to truck guys who want to break the 35 mph barrier. Most were lower than that. My worm drive is 7.25:1. Slow works for me.

 

Strong enough, but you'll be able to get into valve float in the driveway...
Go hit the HAMB want ads and get yourself another torque tube.

 

My 29AA was 7.14, so brisk walk was the top end. Like Bruce said, "another torque tube."

 

How about a picture of your rear end, you know the one I mean?

Charlie Stephens

 

I'll run by the shop on my way to work this morning.

 

Correction needed ... The rear is from a 47 Ford. What I really need is full length torque tube and driveshaft. The differential itself is in good shape.
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While the AA rear end would be one of the worst choices the '47 might be one of the best. There should be no problem with the 100 hp flathead with this axle, the original car had a 100 hp flathead was probably heavier than what you are building (by the way, what are you building?). Newer technology is out there but in my book you can't beat the look of the banjo rear end in an early car. If you have some work on it be sure they know what they are doing, they are not like a modern rear end. One thing to watch for is the fact that the paper shims around the axle housing are part of the adjustment for the rear end and if you take it apart for inspection you need to replace the shims with the same thickness shims. Be sure to use "safety clips" on the rear end to keep from losing an axle in case you break one. Buy or rent (from HAMB member Mac VanPelt, http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_tools_forsale.htm) the proper tool to remove the rear drums. It is cheaper than having to replace a damaged axle. When replacing the rear drum remember that the rear axle nut gets about 200 ft-lbs torque (look it up). Not enough torque on the axle nut and you will break an axle.

Charlie Stephens

 

What I'm looking for now is a replacement torque tube and driveshaft. The one I have has been cut down.

 

I know I have a torque tube I'd be willing to sell.

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