has anyone ever used this crossmember from speedway to lower the front end of a 41-48 coupe. mine has a sticj front suspension, small block chevy w automatic. I am just curious how it would work out thanks
I am pretty sure that is the route I am going to go on my 46. It is pretty straightforward, the stock crossmember has a severe drop and by flattening that out you can lower the car 3 inches, without going to a dropped axle and all the modifications that go with that. The one drawback is that a flathead won't work with it, but you and I are not running one of those. Hope someone chimes in who has used it. Don If you look at how deep the stock crossmember is, the Speedway flatter crossmember has to drop it down quite a bit.
I used one on a 47 ford and worked great,a bonus is you can use stock fuel pump if I remember correctly
41coupe, tell us more. Did it create any angle issues with the wishbone ? Any other suspension/steering clearance issues ? I am going to split my bones and run an automatic, is that what you did ? Glad to hear you liked it. Don
I split my wishbone w/ ch***is engineering kit 350/350 9" 68 bronco rear.used a 605 gm power box and pitmen arm stock 47 cross steering,block hugger exhaust, worked well no issues
Thanks for that info, it really helps. What does that steering box come out of, sounds interesting. I was planning on running the stock steering box, but that sounds better. Don
I bought one of those cross members for my untouched 48 four door, and ended up throwing it out. Almost none of the bolt holes lined up. I called Speedway, and it seemed as though they could have cared less. I ended up using the stock cross member, and cut the top out of it. I then fabricated some 3/16 metal for the top and sides. I have a Oakie Joe dropped axle, a Posie reversed eye spring, and the modified cross member. The car is pretty low, but I like it that way. With the modified stock cross member you have the advantage of adding a shim plate between the spring and cross member if you choose to adjust the ride height. My car has he stock steering box, and stock steering wheel. I drive the car everywhere. I used Ch***is Engineering motor mounts, trans mount, and parallel rear end kit. I used a junkyard Ford pickup rear end with a 3.00 ratio. Save the money and modify your cross member.
I think I saw a review where someone else said the bolt holes didn't match up, but I will be welding mine in, if I go that route. Good info though. Don
I forget what car the box came out of but any mid size gm 605 box late 70s not the larger 825 unit,get the adaptor that completely replaces the stock steering box mount as it gives more exhaust clearance, nothing wrong with stock box will work just use narrow tires like 205/75/15 series or smaller for eazy steering
Kind of a long shot but any photos of the stock cross member and the speedway one next to each other? I also used the ch***is eng inc motor mounts and etc and I can't fathom any less dip in the front cross member. I could hardly get my front spring U bolts in the cross member with the engine in
thanks for the replies I got my reverse eye spring today in the mail 1941 coupe I believe I have the same the same wishbone kit w the bones mounted under the trans w tie rod ends. If I do the reverse eye spring ( its a posies 5802040 2" drop) should I relocate the bones to the frame rails? I am afraid the ch***is is going to be too tight w the bones? any ideas Thanks
also if I do a dropped axle. I measured my kingpin centers before and they are close to 49" w the perch centers almost 39". I don't wanna order the wrong one, the widest I see to order is 48" w roughly what I have for perch centers
I bought a similar one from the Forty Fort and put it (welded) in my '47, then I added a Posies spring, then I "C" notched the frame for spring & axle clearance, then the wishbones hit on the frame so I dropped them at the yoke, then relocated the drag link to the bottom of the steering arm, also made a new panhard bar to fit along with adapting a Weedetr anti-roll bar. Haven't got the car on the road; but it looks like it should work. If I ever did it again would probably use a dropped axle & low spring with the stock crossmember.
I did one years ago. It wasnt from speedway. I used a poisies reversed eye spring and stock axle but it wasnt low enuff for my liking. I found an old 2 inch dropped axle and that made it sit nice.
Pull all the old stuff, bolt in a series 3 jag front end complete with power rack. Drives & stops like a new car.
that sounds like a nice idea but for right now I'll have to stick w/ the axle or crossmember and the leaf
I'm like you, part of me knows that a MMII front end setup would ride and handle better, but I already have a 46 parts car with the complete suspension under it, so that will be what I will use. It will get power discs on the front and some tube shocks, but otherwise stock, but dropped, Ford stuff. I already have a parallel spring setup for the rear, and will use lowering blocks on that to get the right stance. Don
The ifs seems like it is a pretty big job and expensive too. I am gonna attempt to move my already split bones to the frame rails tomorrow when I'm off and go from there. My exhaust is running under them right now if you could imagine ( previous owner thought that was ok)
@1980gold @Don's Hot Rods @1941coupe Just bumping this to the top with a quick question. How much clearance do you have where the wishbones are p***ing under the frame? Also how much room until your on the bump stops? I'd love to go lower and keep my solid axle up front but I'm going to need more than an inch of suspension travel before stuff hits.
On my 41 Tudor I used a 4 inch drop axle from Magnum and 2 inch drop spring from Posies Sent from my KYOCERA-C6742 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I ended up doing the magnum axle this past weekend. I didn't do the crossmember. I used the reverse eye spring also. I neglected to tell the supplier a that I had disc brakes so my steering arms didn't fit. I ordered a set from ch***is engineering. As far as clearance everything ( drag link and tie rod) stayed in the same spot. I may have to shorten the tie rod about an inch but I'll wait till the steering arms get here