I want to "test" fit my vinyl to an armrest. Any recommendations for a temporary adhesive to use for this?
when you glue the vinyl and lift it little balls of glue get stuck to the backing and when you re glue you see the little imperfections in the leather or vinyl
I can't find a glue that sticks forever on vinyl. I tried a pro-brand from the auto upholstery shop here, then tried several different 3M sprays.....and I even tried fresh DAP contact cement. I wrapped the vinyl over a door panel and glue the 2" overlap to the backs. Set the panel in storage for a month or more and it all lifts up. Panels were that white Masonite stuff, also had some small trim panels above windshield made of sheet metal...same peeling. My running boards are painted sheet metal and that same 2" overlap down the outside of the boards...peeled I hope to reglue the door panels and then get them tightly fastened to the door right away. Maybe that will work. Tried two vinyls. One was from auto uph shop, and other is Jo-anns marine vinyl. both peeled, but marine peeled quicker. At this point on the running boards, I'm ready to try fiber gl*** resin, because there is no chrome strip to secure the outer edge that keeps unwrapping .
F&J i had the same problem, called my upholster and he said he was seeing problems also. he said the stuff isn't heat proof. he is using some stuff now that he says is heat proof.
Ted, I'm disgusted at this point. I glued the boards a week before I was ready to bolt them on. I went and bough FRESH DAP contact cement, followed the dry time, bought 50 new wooden spring closepins and clamped the **** out of them for a week drying time. 3-4 months later they started to peel. I just got my gl*** back an hour ago, and I need to put the door panels on this week. How is there any way to clean the old lifted material or the panel....I guess I will spray more on that mess and snap the panels on quick. I think it's like modern safe stuff that they changed the ingredients for epa. Nothing works for **** anymore .
Hard to do as the adhesive either sticks or doesn't. When you stretch your vinyl it needs to stick on one end so you can stretch the vinyl over the armrest. So, "temporary" is tough to do. You should be able to stretch it over by hand to see how it may fit. Is it a shaped or tailored piece of vinyl? Heat or steam helps to shape the vinyl.
Thanks for the response KK and 32v! I won't reuse my test piece of vinyl which should eliminate the chance of glue balls... Also, for you guys looking for a cement that works - this is what the pro shops use. Weldwood Landau Top and Trim Adhesive. It's High Heat Resistant and should work for you. http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/weldwood-landau-top-trim-high-heat-resistant-contact-cement/
That's exactly my problem. Temporary isn't quite cutting it, so I've been able to stretch it by hand and I think I can get it down without having to overstretch it or get wrinkles in the curves... it will be a leap of faith! The compound curves of a small armrest are a challenge when trying to avoid a sewn seam.
When it comes to door panel or similar panels made of Masonite, upholstery shops also staple the flaps down with short upholstery staples. This is done along with the sprayed on glue. The Weldwood product is quite good, and best sprayed through a cheap spray gun that you bought cheap at HF or other discount tool place. The gun will be rendered useless for anything else. My friend who is a professional upholsterer fills the gun and just leaves the glue in it for ever, refills as needed! KK
Use of a heat gun will help in making the vinyl conform. Staples will be needed for the permanent installation on the underside. KK
For the guys wrapping door panels of fibergl*** or Masonite I also apply the wide foil type duct tape on the back of the door panel to vinyl glue seam. Half of tape on vinyl, half on door panel. The foil type holds and is pretty darn heat resistant. Don't use regular duct tape the adhesive melts over time and releases.
The Jalopy Journal
