Hey Tyler, keep building the car for yourself the way you want it to be. I think most people have provided respectful constructive criticism and opinions in support of your endeavors and goals. You're doing great, so keep up the forward motion. Little bolt on components like steering wheels etc. can always be easily changed at a later time. Don't get bogged down in the minutiae and maintain focus on your core vision.
For sure! I'm not getting derailed anytime soon! The advice given is all appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I didn't mean you don't know what "real custom" is, and I didn't try to teach you Maybe, if I and my friends had an opportunity and money to buy some aftermarket stuff instead of cutting, welding and bolting together s****... but every time I see expensive aftermarket parts on cool cars I remeber Eric Darby's "Hot rodding is dead".
I might have put the manifold/header in place before finishing the steering. This is a problematic area on these.
I'm not sure if people think I'm getting defensive or think I'm ****-hurt, but that's not the case at all! I love the community input! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You are correct, I've already ditched two sets of cast iron exhaust manifolds! The headers I ordered were my last resort. Since they are 16gauge steel I can at least beat the hell out of them to make them work. Update will come tomorrow on how that goes! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've looked at those, they look even bigger than the hugger headers I pulled the trigger on but, then again, looks can be deceiving! The cast manifolds looked like they would be fine too... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
How did you mount the new gauges? Simply remove the old and install the new? Any adaptor rings? Looking to do the same . Thanks, Andy
Didn't see a picture of the headers you're running but depending on how much the headers hit the linkage you might be able to use spacers on the engine mounts to lift the engine a little to clear. I had to cut my motor mounts and raise my engine up for the block huggers to clear the steering.
Here they are, we'll see what happens tomorrow when I get up to my car Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Keep at it. I like 58-60 and 1961 chevy steering wheels. Yours looks more appropriate for a 30s build. The gauges have the same vibe. I like chrome column, maybe some different knobs on the end of shifter, turn signal lever, etc. If you want the car to fit a particular period, the period defines your choices, not your preferences. Some might not agree with your taste or ideas, but I appreciate your at***ude and like your car. Hope it turns out you want.
I got the headers in, had to bang on the drivers side quite a bit to get the steering to clear. One of the set screws still bumps it if you are jerky with the steering wheel... I might end up grinding it down to have zero interference. Brake lines are up next. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nope! Haven't gotten there yet, is there something I should be prepared for? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was just curious. I set one up in the '51 but didn't like how it came out so was looking for ideas for the '49.
I'll keep you updated, I am holding off on putting in my carb until I know the engine is staying in for a while. Plus, I need to order the "tv made ez" kit from bow tie overdrives that mounts under the throttle body. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I just looked at the "tv made ez" kit again and it has an optional bracket for the throttle cable, so I'll likely go that route. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have to agree. One of the nice things about building a custom rather than a hot rod is that you have some room to hide the stuff that can overtly deviate from the truly period correct. You can keep the hood shut, lower full fenders over a newer front clip/stub, and hide some other goodies under a bigger dash or in the trunk. But with that being said, it's my opinion that anything that is visible to the casual observer should be traditional/period correct as much as possible. I don't see any reason why the stock column couldn't have been modified to accept a universal or rag joint, the stock gauges couldn't be retrofitted to work or more correct gauges couldn't have been used, and that a stock steering wheel couldn't have been used. I have absolutely no issue with using bags and an aftermarket or different frame clip. In fact, I'm using a Fatman MII in my current project. But unless someone gets under the car and looks, they'll be none the wiser. The plans for a TBI engine don't give me high hopes for under the hood either. Are you sure that trans is a 700R4 and not a 4L60E if it's a '96? If it's a 4L60E, you're going to need a stand alone ECU to run that trans as well. It sounds like your heart is in the right place as far as making this a more period build, but it seems like you're deviating a bit far from the desired outcome. Now is the time to pull it back in if that's in fact what you're after.
I agree 100% with your entire post. There is not a problem with underhood and under the car, because nobody will look anyways...at least at shows I have been to. So, yes, I don't have a problem with any of that, but like you said, it IS the interior stuff that makes or breaks the whole feeling of a old time custom. I actually enjoy trying to get some of those things "right". .
The engine is 96 the transmission is not. The wheel will be swapped for a correct wheel and the car came with no column so yes, I could have bought and modified one to work but I didn't. The gauges could have been modified as well and maybe I will regret that down the road, but currently things are looking like they are coming together for a very drivable and reliable car. Updates to come Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When it comes to period correctness, everybody has a point where they draw a line in the sand on what they deem an acceptable deviation and what has to stay on point. That point is different for everybody, which is fine, and sometimes that point makes no sense at all. I agree with you, getting some of the period stuff "right" is what makes a build fun and poses some interesting problem-solving and creative engineering we need to do. In my personal opinion, despite keeping the hood shut, the engine should be mainly traditional. IMHO it should be kept carbureted, though I have no problem running an electronic ignition (preferably in a regular, non-HEI cap). The engine should be a traditional model, a SBC is fine, but no overtly new engines like modular Ford V8s, LS based engines, or the like. I like to drive my cars far and often, so improvements to brakes, steering and suspension I'm more open to, provided they're mostly invisible. The interior should basically be 100% period correct. Where I'll gladly deviate from the traditional is in the gearbox. Give me a modern OD trans like a 4L80E, a Gear Vendors equipped 727 or a Tremec TKO500/600 or T56 over 4 speed any day. The modern gearing is what makes the vintage engines so much more capable in modern traffic and at modern speeds. This is just my personal take. Some folks on here are real strict to the mission, only period parts despite the sacrifices in drivability and practicality. I get it.
You can drive yesterday's car, but you cannot drive it on yesterday's roads, with yesterday's drivers and traffic.
Couple of points on the 700r4. The cable going to the carb is a TV cable that controls pressure rather than downshifting- here is a link: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm 2nd, had this issue and fixed it today- leaking at the input of the speedo cable. Replace the seals on the speedo housing that sits in the side of the ******- one large one that seals the adapter and the second is where the gear rides, it's held in place by a locking ring. They have a habit of leaking, especially the one where the gear rides.
That's a correct point. However, for perspective, I make my previous statement as someone who prefers a custom to a hot rod, and the rules are different. As custom guys, we have the luxury of having a full-sized car to hide a few modern goodies, or a more modern suspension or powerplant. Such is not the case for a hot rod.
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