Hot Rods 46 Banjo Rear problem

Anyone know how to losen a stuck coupling on a 46 banjo rear. Tried heating, no luck, afraid damage spline by hammering too much. Pin has been removed but coupling won't slide off easily, Last resort is to use a whiz wheel to split the coupling and pry it open. Phil

 

Had one the same, soaked with penetrant, left, ended up using a drift/chisel and finally got it off, no damage to splines, couplers are available if you need to replace.


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Penetrant, tap tap, penetrant and so on. Tap in as well as out. Also a little careful side to side action with the drive shaft helps too.

 

I am sure you know this, but just in case. - 2 pins must be removed to remove coupling..

 

Oops, thought just the pin on the pinion end..

 

Good Catch, 19Fordy!

If you get the coupler off the driveshaft, you can use a deep long jaw puller to remove it from the pinion.

 

If actually stuck, weld a strap across forward end and tap it or weld a nut to it, insert bolt and use as puller. When off and cleaned up, grind the welds away and you still have a usable coupler.

 

Success......lots of tapping and KROIL penetrating oil. Now I pulled one drum but the other is being a problem.....stripped one lug with the puller...trying heat tomorrow. I don't have the KLW type.
Phil

 

The KRW puller is well worth the money.
If you mess up your axle threads, etc. the repair cost will be more than the cost of the KRW tool.
Plus, if you are going to keep the stock hubs and drums you will always need one.
If you lived in FL you could borrow mine.

 

Where are you? You may be near someone on here who has a KRW or Plomb puller.

 

Ordered a KRW today...thanks guys.

Phil

 

Smart move. You will be amazed at how you just made your job so much easier.
Be sure to remove the axle nut and place the little cap
over the end of the threads when you use it. According to
the OEM Ford specs. that axle nut is tightened to 200-220
foot pounds so be patient. Scoot over to Fordbarn and read ALL this thread.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177822&highlight=krw+wheel+puller
PS: I am a weakling so I only tighten it to 175 foot ponds.

 

On replacing the rear hubs on the taper would you use anti-sieze?
Phil

 

The folks on Fordbarn say not to use anti- sieze. on the taper.
The reason not to is because the fit between the tapered surfaces is suppose to be as if the axle and hub was a solid piece. The "dry" proponents say that any oil or lube on the taper allows "float" (not complete contact) between the two surfaces. This puts excessive load on the keyway.
But some folks do use a light lube.
Here's some interesting info:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76895&highlight=anti+seize+axle+taper

 

The lube from the wheel bearing will be right there at the back side of the hub and a can migrate down the taper if there is any clearance. I would say you should add no lube.

 

KRW tool works!!!

 

Yup, it DOES work! As above.......absolutely NO lube on axle, or inside hub........CLEAN and dry! Tighten nut to spec. The tightness of the nut locks the two tapers......works just like a MORSE TAPER. This is why NO lube. That key does NOT drive the hub. DD

 

I've even heard of people using valve lapping compound to get a clean tight fit.