Customs anti roll and sway bars for vintage trailer

Sorry I've really searched on line and keep going in circles.
I need to put a sway/ anti roll bar on a vintage 16” camper, 2000 lbs tops when fully loaded. It’s high off the ground and can rock uncontrollably when passed by a big rig. I’m using an Anderson Weight Distribution Hitch with Anti-Sway, Anti-Bounce so it’s really only the trailer rocking side to side on the leaf springs that’s the problem. I’ve added shocks but that didn’t get rid of the problem, helped but not enough. Is there a chart somewhere that gives sway bar widths instead of just what cars they fit on? My frame is 55” wide 51” between springs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. There’s plenty of room for modifications if necessary.

Thanks

 

I'd just make a trip to the local boneyard and start looking; there has to be plenty of cars that will have something that will work. Although I wonder if a bar will cure this. I would think the shocks should have done it, but if they're not mounted right they may not be able to do the job. Any pics of the shock install?

 

How close to vertical are the shocks mounted? If they are angled quite a bit they will be ineffective.

 

I would contact Hellwig http://www.hellwigproducts.com/

 

Welderseries sells a universal sway bar that is flat with splined arms to clock them to a better mounting position. What are the shocks like?

 

Are you using passenger tires instead of trailer tires? HRP

 

Why are you considering moving the sway bar so far inboard. If you do go this way mount it on the frame and pick up on the outside of the springplates [ even when the axle is bottomed out against the frame, there is room for a sway bar between the spring and the frame ]

What you are experiencing here is a very common problem with single axle leaf spring trailers.
The problem is caused by "roll oversteer" which triggers and perpetuates the swaying oscillations.

Look at the photos posted, the front spring-eye is much higher than the axle centerline.
If the R/H side compresses it moves that side rearward on an arc, which causes the trailer to steer to the right.
When the trailer steers to the right, bodyroll transfers weight to the left which then compresses and steers to the left.[starting oscillations back and forth]

The correct fix would be to "de-arch" the front half of the spring and use a deeper front spring hanger [the same height or lower than the axle centreline] This moves the axle vertical/forward on an arc when the spring compresses. If you look at a Chrysler leaf spring rear end [or most other brands] this is what they did to prevent rear ear swaying.

I've seen this situation where a single axle trailer handled nice when towed behind a family sedan, but swayed badly when towed behind a jacked up SUV

I built a trailer with hangers at the rear and shackles at the front to cure roll oversteer , it had roll understeer which is more stable ,this method should be considered also

Torsion axles do not roll-steer [the main beam is fixed to the frame] If you're going to piss around with "chasing your tail remedies" seriously consider this.[fix the actual cause of the problem]
You can buy a "blank" torsion axle for about $230-$260 and use your existing brakes. Then you can sell your old leaf springs and axle for approx 1/2 that [going this way would be cheaper than a sway bay and would definately cure the problem [a sway bar usually doesn't]

this has free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Relable-Mac...ash=item4aea227be4:g:3ecAAOSwl8NVWn1h&vxp=mtr

 

IMHO I'd go with heavier RHS over open channel. Less likely to distort under load

 

Let us know if you find such a list, I've got an application I need a bar for as well.

I'd considered one on those universal NASCAR style for my project but not sure yet.

Good luck!

 

Wow, I wish I'd posted here before I had the shocks put on. They are way too flat and I was thinking last night I needed to see if I could relocate them. First, you need to know I can't do much anyore myself and am havinf to get it done and have tow options One is to use a shop that dos REALLY high end builds , restorations and cars for Road Atlanta. but as you would expect. They are always backed up and not inexpensive.The next option is to use a local tire /brake etc. shop The knowledge base is not as high.

 

Looks like some go cut off?
Wow, I wish I'd posted here before I had the shocks put on. I need to get another set of brackets and relocate them on the inside of the springs to more vertical like I assumed they would do. First, you need to know I can't do much anymore myself and am having to get it done and have two options. Frustrating. One is to use a shop that does REALLY high end builds, restorations and cars for Road Atlanta. But as you would expect, they are always backed up and not inexpensive. The next option is to use a local tire /brake etc. shop. The knowledge base is not as high but they know how to weld.
Kerrynzi, on the springs, if I follow you, the hanger needs to be in the front, not the back. Are you thinking this will help diminish the sway or the roll side to side. I’m not getting much sway with the Anderson hitch but the roll side to side is extreme on occasion.
Could I just use the same parts but switch them around?. low in front, tight to the frame in back?
ON other notes, I called Hellwig earlier but they weren’t very receptive and the price ball park was through the roof for a custom job. These are trailer tires, Goodyear Marathon 75R15.

Thanks for all the advice!

 

The shocks.

 

Whom ever mounted the shocks is a moron and that's the politest I can be..The way you thought they should have been mounted would at least have given you 50% but the way they were mounted is worth close to nothing...

 

The closer you mount the shocks to Vertical the more effective they will be. As the angle gets greater the less movement the shock has per inch of bounce. The way they are now is useless.

Sent from my VS980 4G using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

huge problem, the shocks are not doing squat in that position

 

In the 70's single axle travel trailers [caravans] towed by an underpowered pommy sedan[Hillman Hunter] were the curse of our highways. They drove at 30mph because they swayed badly. .

When I flipped the suspension around by using a cut-off wheel in a grinder and re-used the existing hangers and slippers
The worst part of the job was the cutting and grinding.

If you want more ride height, simply cut off the front hangers and add a 3x2" block between the frame and hanger.
Raising the trailer will also give the trailer a nose down attitude which also helps
A 3x2" block raises the trailer 1-1/2" at the centrebolt of the spring

You could also use a lowering block.
The idea is to get the alxe on the datum line of the below drawing and have the hanger below the axle centre height

 

Thanks all. Without question I need to relocate the shocks. Once that's done, I'll let you know where I stand. At this point I think it’s obvious it wouldn't make sense to pursue the anti sway bar until the shocks are relocated. Thanks again for all the advice.

The rolling only appeared after I started using the Anderson load leveling anti sway hitch? Wonder if that could be contributing to the rock and roll? Didn’t do it before?

 

This is how my shocks are mounted on my trailer. I moved them around when I put the axle under the springs to raise the trailer.

 

Put your shocks as verticle as you can and also out to the sides as far as is workable. Gary